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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
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347 + vert = stress crackes

  • Thread starter Thread starter twolo4u2c2
  • Start date Start date Jul 28, 2005

twolo4u2c2

5 Year Member
Apr 10, 2003
330
6
29
reading, PA
Jul 28, 2005
#1
  • Jul 28, 2005
  • #1
I recently found some stress cracks on the drivers side floor pan around the seat mounting and rear section of pan.. I'm going to fix them and than add the maximum motorsports full length subframes with the seat supports(the new ones). Has anyone used these before or herd about these?



thanks
 

89CopCoupe

Banned
Feb 17, 2004
606
0
0
Post Count City
Jul 28, 2005
#2
  • Jul 28, 2005
  • #2
Do an advanced thread search and type "subframe connectors" while searching "titles only"

Tons of good reads
 

Curse

Member
Apr 8, 2004
791
2
16
El Paso, TX
Jul 29, 2005
#3
  • Jul 29, 2005
  • #3
89CopCoupe said:
Do an advanced thread search and type "subframe connectors" while searching "titles only"

Tons of good reads
Click to expand...
There has been debate about what kind of SFC to get and from whom to get them from since forever.
 
T

tjm73

Founding Member
Aug 3, 2000
2,418
2
48
Rush, NY
Jul 29, 2005
#4
  • Jul 29, 2005
  • #4
Those weren't caused by the 347. Some cars have this happen with totally stock cars. Ford used thin (ie cheap) sheet metel to make the floors for the cars and over time and use they weaken till they start to tear.
 

Michael Yount

Mustang Master
Apr 10, 2002
9,039
6
79
Charlotte, NC
Jul 29, 2005
#5
  • Jul 29, 2005
  • #5
The chassis/unibody is notoriously flexible - ESPECIALLY when you cut the roof off (verts and to a slightly lesser extent T-top cars). Anything you can do to fortify it in bending and torsional strength will help it handle better and will reduce squeaks and rattles; will also reduce the dreaded vert cowl shake. The sfc will help; and well engineered (and welded) roll cage will help even more....
 
S

Scorcher2005

Member
Apr 17, 2004
883
0
16
South Carolina
Jul 29, 2005
#6
  • Jul 29, 2005
  • #6
yeah, my car is/was stock and my drivers floorboard is falling out. I'm sure though w/ your more power, you are just worsening the situation.
 

QDRHRSE

New Member
Dec 31, 2002
1,590
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0
Palmdale, CA
Jul 29, 2005
#7
  • Jul 29, 2005
  • #7
I have the Griggs full lengths and boy do they work! All the [different brand] subframes do the same thing so I don't think that there is a substantial difference between them except that some have better provisions for the seat supports. The full lengths are much better than the standard ones. Also, be sure to weld, not bolt, them in.
 

darthcual

Member
Mar 31, 2005
985
19
18
Arlington, TX
Jul 29, 2005
#8
  • Jul 29, 2005
  • #8
QDRHRSE said:
I have the Griggs full lengths and boy do they work! All the [different brand] subframes do the same thing so I don't think that there is a substantial difference between them except that some have better provisions for the seat supports. The full lengths are much better than the standard ones. Also, be sure to weld, not bolt, them in.
Click to expand...


The floors are so weak on these cars subframe connectors are almost a must. I put mine in recently and when i get the chance my grandfada and I are going to weld them on. I noticed substantially less flex but the reason i did it was to protect my baby.
 
T

tjm73

Founding Member
Aug 3, 2000
2,418
2
48
Rush, NY
Jul 29, 2005
#9
  • Jul 29, 2005
  • #9
Michael Yount said:
Anything you can do to fortify it in bending and torsional strength will help it handle better and will reduce squeaks and rattles; will also reduce the dreaded vert cowl shake.
Click to expand...


Tell me about it. My convertible bends, twists and shakes more than an exotic dancer. It's particularly bad when the top is down. Top down = cowl shake.
 

twolo4u2c2

5 Year Member
Apr 10, 2003
330
6
29
reading, PA
Jul 29, 2005
#10
  • Jul 29, 2005
  • #10
ok....I plan on getting the Maximum motorsports Full length ones with seat supports. cowl shake...? hummmm thats what that it......
 
8

87'GTstang

New Member
Feb 16, 2004
1,025
0
0
Jul 29, 2005
#11
  • Jul 29, 2005
  • #11
I've had some MM full-length subs sitting in the garage for awhile now.

Does anyone know of what to look out for when welding them? I could have sworn I heard something about burning through, or somethng being too thin and not to weld there? Anyone know of what i'm talking about?

Basically any pointers before/during welding them in.........
 

Michael Yount

Mustang Master
Apr 10, 2002
9,039
6
79
Charlotte, NC
Jul 29, 2005
#12
  • Jul 29, 2005
  • #12
tjm - yeah - if you want to see something entertaining, take a stock vert with the top down, and drive one front wheel up on a curb. Now, take a look all around the at the panel gaps. Better yet, watch what happens when you try and open and close the doors - especially the one on the side that's up on the curb. Flexible-flyers.....
 

88stangmangt

Active Member
Nov 25, 2003
2,332
1
48
Stafford,VA
Jul 29, 2005
#13
  • Jul 29, 2005
  • #13
reminds me of this Z i worked on one time....the only thing holding his feet in was the carpet...
 
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