351 block
- Thread starter aleborjas
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well suffice it to say they will handle more then the 302 blocks. Reliable numbers for 70-74 year blocks would be 550+ hp, I doubt going past 700hp would be a good idea specially if you were going to turn high rpms. those are the strongest blocks. well factory anyways. obviuosly svo and other aftermarcket blocks are stronger.
actually i think 69-74 are the strong blocks. They support more than a late model block (302 or 351, 5.0 or 5.8) If you look at the difference in the main caps you will see why.....its a clear night and day difference pluse the older blocks had a higher nickel content thus making them stronger. I would not go past 600 hp
yeah didnt think about the deck height differences......i have a 69 block sitting in the shop too
From my site...
351w Casting Numbers
The casting numbers are on the passenger side near the starter location. You will have to turn the block upside down, or use a mirror to see them.
The year will be designated by the first 2 digits of the casting number.
The first digit is the decade and will be a letter. C=1960's, D=1970's, E=1980's, and so on. The second digit will be a number and specifies the year of the decade. Some examples follow:
D1=1971
E9=1989
F4=1994
For more info on how to identify various Ford engine blocks check out the following link…
http://www.fordification.com/engineID.htm
Getting Into the Nitty-Gritty
The 351w Engine Block -
69-70 - High Nickel content and thicker main webs (These are the only Production Ford 9.480" Deck Height 351w blocks)
71-74 - Reduced Nickel content thinner main webs (71-up had 9.503" Deck Height)
75-91 - Reduced main web thickness
92-On - Lifter Bores were lengthened to accept roller lifters
There were some 351w Mexican blocks as well. The early versions of which are desirable due to their beefier castings and higher nickel contents. A Mexican block can be identified by the useless looking knobs cast into the block on either side of the timing cover, and an “Hencho en Mexico” cast into the lifter valley. Mexican blocks were supposedly used on some US vehicles, but they are a fairly rare find.
351w Casting Numbers
The casting numbers are on the passenger side near the starter location. You will have to turn the block upside down, or use a mirror to see them.
The year will be designated by the first 2 digits of the casting number.
The first digit is the decade and will be a letter. C=1960's, D=1970's, E=1980's, and so on. The second digit will be a number and specifies the year of the decade. Some examples follow:
D1=1971
E9=1989
F4=1994
For more info on how to identify various Ford engine blocks check out the following link…
http://www.fordification.com/engineID.htm
Getting Into the Nitty-Gritty
The 351w Engine Block -
69-70 - High Nickel content and thicker main webs (These are the only Production Ford 9.480" Deck Height 351w blocks)
71-74 - Reduced Nickel content thinner main webs (71-up had 9.503" Deck Height)
75-91 - Reduced main web thickness
92-On - Lifter Bores were lengthened to accept roller lifters
There were some 351w Mexican blocks as well. The early versions of which are desirable due to their beefier castings and higher nickel contents. A Mexican block can be identified by the useless looking knobs cast into the block on either side of the timing cover, and an “Hencho en Mexico” cast into the lifter valley. Mexican blocks were supposedly used on some US vehicles, but they are a fairly rare find.
lol my bad. 69 and 70 blocks require different intakes. i could be wrong but i believe also dizzy's. Its not as easy as going to a swap meet and picking up any old vic jr and installing it. You end up looking for block specific. kinda a pain in the butt to me anyways.
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