I am thinking of swapping in a 351, but a roller engine. I believe it was 94-96 they were roller right? Anyway, would a scrap yard e-class van be a good place to find one? I am looking to build a modest 351, heads, intake, cam, nothing too extreme. I know they are not the strongest 351 blocks, but would a stug girdle tighten it up nicely?
351 swap
- Thread starter ty-rone
- Start date
DarkMesa8
Founding Member
ty-rone said:
Stud girdles spread the load and help, but nothing too significant from what I've heard (just heard, never tested). But a general known fact is that if you do manage to split a 351W block, it'll hold it together saving your rotating assembling.
What's your budget? My extremely cheap/reuse a lot of parts is predicted to fall into the $4000 range. My initial goal was putting me at $5500, but I had to drop stuff like the aluminum flywheel, H-Beam rods, lightweight pistons etc.
E-Van, Truck, etc, they're all good places for a 351W, just not sure if its the one you'll want.
PS: The search function here, and on corral has provided me with more info than I can process. Type "351W swap"
I Was planning on using a mildy stock rebuilt 351, with somthing like a b cam, stock cleaned up heads, edelbrock performer or the like intake. I am not look to go to exotic, just want somthing different for my next project.
If I got a roller 351 stock short block from a local engine builder, would it handle 350 -400 horse?
If I got a roller 351 stock short block from a local engine builder, would it handle 350 -400 horse?
DarkMesa8
Founding Member
ty-rone said:
It certainly handle 350hp, but with stock heads of any form, even the lightning heads, you won't see anywhere close to that.
DarkMesa8
Founding Member
bjl95mustang
Founding Member
a B cam will most likely be too small for a 351.
remember the rule, if it works on a 302 and you put it on a 351 then your 351 is going to run like a 302.
I built my entire motor for 2500 and here is what I did:
40,000 mile F150 long block from salvage yard 700.00
rebuilt using new rings, bearings, rod bolts, freeze plugs
parts -~300.00
machine shop labor - 150
tools (ring expander, ring compressor, valve spring compressor) - 100.00
Typhoon EFI intake - 300 (stangnet classifieds)
Cometic head gaskets - 35.00 (stangnet classifieds)
new billet steel flywheel -75.00
new clutch assy - 180
crank spacer 30.00
AC/PS bracket - 40.00
LOTS of carb cleaner - 50.00
LOTS of shop towels - 50.00
and misc. hoses and lines for hooking everything up and I'm sure I'm missing some other stuff.
if you are interested in my parts break down email me and I'll send you my excel spread sheet of my parts and where they came from.
remember the rule, if it works on a 302 and you put it on a 351 then your 351 is going to run like a 302.
I built my entire motor for 2500 and here is what I did:
40,000 mile F150 long block from salvage yard 700.00
rebuilt using new rings, bearings, rod bolts, freeze plugs
parts -~300.00
machine shop labor - 150
tools (ring expander, ring compressor, valve spring compressor) - 100.00
Typhoon EFI intake - 300 (stangnet classifieds)
Cometic head gaskets - 35.00 (stangnet classifieds)
new billet steel flywheel -75.00
new clutch assy - 180
crank spacer 30.00
AC/PS bracket - 40.00
LOTS of carb cleaner - 50.00
LOTS of shop towels - 50.00
and misc. hoses and lines for hooking everything up and I'm sure I'm missing some other stuff.
if you are interested in my parts break down email me and I'll send you my excel spread sheet of my parts and where they came from.
Spierce, you done good! Now you have me trying to think what my swap ran...
Anyway, Ty-rone you'll never regret the swap! Just don't try to keep it too mild. The roller block I got was a 94' and heck, it's even taken out .060 over. Once you get it all worked over and installed you'll be in Stang Heaven!
Here's an issue I had though. I used the drop solid motor mounts, and they had my headers hitting my steering column... Solution: Flaming River has a swap piece to give you more clearance. Advice: Change it while the motor is out, much easier!
Anyway, Ty-rone you'll never regret the swap! Just don't try to keep it too mild. The roller block I got was a 94' and heck, it's even taken out .060 over. Once you get it all worked over and installed you'll be in Stang Heaven!
Here's an issue I had though. I used the drop solid motor mounts, and they had my headers hitting my steering column... Solution: Flaming River has a swap piece to give you more clearance. Advice: Change it while the motor is out, much easier!
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