351w changes year to year?

73 ski nautique

New Member
Nov 2, 2009
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Not a Mustang question, but I'm betting you guys have forgotten more about Ford SB's than I'll ever know. I have a reverse rotation 351w in my vintage ski boat. The previous owner was less than forthcoming about the motor. Long story short it was pumping oil out the dipstick tube, Pulling the heads revealed the problem to be the #7 bore was severely pitted and eroded from water sitting in it, apparently for a long time.

Rather than boring that block, I've acquired another reverse rotation shortblock casting #d9ae 6015 ed15 il4. The original block is still in the boat, I can't see the casting #. I'm assuming its the original 1972 block. Were there any changes that would keep me from swapping all the parts over? Oil pan, timing cover, etc, etc...

I'm also looking for a bit more power and have a set of shorty wet headers, performer intake, gt40p heads with bigger valves and 1.7 rr's, I'm going to do a cam upgrade within the limits of the wet exhaust. I'm looking for broad flat torque up to 5200-5300 rpm.

What do you guys think?
 
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I've done some boat motors. Use Roades lifters. You can use a hotter cam and still come up to the dock at 400 rpm.

I'm not clear why the block would be any different for reverse rotation.

The GT40 head was developed from the 351W head. Just rework those.
 
The heads on the 351w are not original, they are mid 80's truck heads, small valves, open chambers, low compression. The gt 40p's get compression to the 9.3 range, better runners, better plug location, flow better.

I was not really asking if the reverse rotation made a difference, but if there were any other changes that would make the parts not swap. Any changes to the casting of the block?

The heads, intake and cam should get be above 300hp.

Thanks
 
the only difference in those two blocks are (assuming previous block is 72 and older) is the main caps have the bearing retaining notch in a different spot and a larger od on the main rear seal. the only other difference is the older blocks have a little more meat in the main webbing(not really a concern unless your well above 500 hp)
 
Do these look like the correct torque specs? Ready to put this thing back together! The cam, heads, intake, header package should net about 320 hp, 420 lb/ft, and I'll keep it to 5000 rpm or less!

Fastener Type


Torque Spec.
Main cap bots 95-105 ft.-lbs.
Connecting rod bolts 40-45 ft.-lbs
Cylinder head bolts (follow factory torque sequence) 90-100 ft.-lbs.
Rocker arms 17-23 ft.-lbs.
Intake manifold bolts 23-25 ft.-lbs.
Oil pump bolt 23-28 ft.-lbs.
Cam bolts 40-45 ft.-lbs.
Cam thrust plate bolts 8-10 ft.-lbs.
Harmonic damper bolt 70-90 ft.-lbs.
Flywheel/ flexplate bolts 75-85 ft.-lbs.
Pressure plate bolts 35 ft.-lbs.
Front cover bolts 12-15 ft.-lbs.
 
The only thing different to make it a reverse rotation motor was the crankshaft and cam grind. . JUst me but I'd replace the Performer with an RPM intake. The GT40P's may not work with your headers due to the plug location.
 
The headers will work, it is tight, the headers are upside down from what you would see in an automotive application, the water jacket is what makes it tight.

An rpm or stealth intake makes the motor box clearance very close.

Are the torque specs correct? I pulled them off the web and would like some confirmation.

Thanks.