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351w exhaust/header issues

  • Thread starter Thread starter boss_302
  • Start date Start date Aug 5, 2006

boss_302

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mustangland
Aug 5, 2006
#1
  • Aug 5, 2006
  • #1
hello all, I have a 351w in my 67 mustang i want to put a 4 speed trans in the car.My ? can i use 351w factory manifolds from a 69/70 mustang in a 67 mustang and use the h-pipe from a69/70 mustang in a 67 car.I dont want to use headers i was sent over 2 sets for the 4 speed coversion both are useless.So i decided to go standard manifolds.thanks javed
 
F

ForceFed70

That's why they call it "dope"
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#2
  • Aug 5, 2006
  • #2
Generally it's easier to fit headers with a manual... People have big blocks with headers... no reason why you can't do it it your car.

I see no reason why you couldn't use the 69/70 manifolds and the H pipe.
 
M

mustangdave

My rearend needs a stud and two nuts.
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Aug 5, 2006
#3
  • Aug 5, 2006
  • #3
I don't know if the stock 69/70 would work; their engine compartments are wider and they might hit the shock towers in a 67. I'd suggest some nice shorty headers.
 
5

5.0ina66

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#4
  • Aug 5, 2006
  • #4
The 351W manifolds work, heck they even work in 65-6 cars.
 

xoxbxfx

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Aug 5, 2006
#5
  • Aug 5, 2006
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5.0ina66 said:
The 351W manifolds work, heck they even work in 65-6 cars.
Click to expand...

are you sure?? I have put in a set on a 100% bone stock mach1 w/ 351w 4spd and that thign BARELY fits in there. We had to raise the motor to make it fit and the collector dumps towards teh frame rail. No exhaust shop could make any exhaust fit. We ended up using a stock style H. If you look at them, the tube near the frame rail is crushed down close to 50% so it runs flat against the frame rail. The only way it would work was if 65-70 frame rails are the same width apart.
 
T

THX 138

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#6
  • Aug 6, 2006
  • #6
BottleFed70 said:
Generally it's easier to fit headers with a manual... People have big blocks with headers... no reason why you can't do it it your car.

I see no reason why you couldn't use the 69/70 manifolds and the H pipe.
Click to expand...
Big block ports point down a lot more than small blocks.
 

Edbert

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#7
  • Aug 6, 2006
  • #7
I have a 351W in front of an AOD in my 67 and there's plenty of clearance with headers, I can look up the part number if you need me to. I know you're frustrated but that is a very nice ride, wouldn't seem right with cast-iron manifolds. If you do use the factory manifolds you'll be fine though, worst case you'll just need an exhaust man to hook them up to the primaries.
 

boss_302

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Aug 6, 2006
#8
  • Aug 6, 2006
  • #8
Edbert said:
I have a 351W in front of an AOD in my 67 and there's plenty of clearance with headers, I can look up the part number if you need me to. I know you're frustrated but that is a very nice ride, wouldn't seem right with cast-iron manifolds. If you do use the factory manifolds you'll be fine though, worst case you'll just need an exhaust man to hook them up to the primaries.
Click to expand...
hello
My main issues were in the clutch linkage side the header was hitting the frame rail and it was very tight in there for me to tighten the equalizer bar unless i cut the header and modify the tube.Is there anyone using headers with a 351w 4 speed in a 67 if which brand works.Thanks javed
 
C

chromedog

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worlds center for speed
Aug 6, 2006
#9
  • Aug 6, 2006
  • #9
go to hedmans website, and check out their elite series headers... i just put a set of their shorties on a 65 running a 351w in front of an aod... ive never installed a nicer fitting set of pipes. find a set that fits, and give summit a call... they stock a lot more than their catalog shows
 

Edbert

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#10
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That is what I used too, Hedmann Elite "351W swap" units. The AOD is known to have header clearance issues and these fit fine (the collector is close to the pan but clears). I have a number of pictures on my site (http://www.edbert.net/randp.htm), in the second picture you can see the driver's side has taken a clutch into consideration, I just don't know if it is enough for you.

I do not want to say that they'll fit a manual trans since I have no first-hand experience and would hate to steer you wrong. Maybe this is a good excuse for that hydraulic clutch?
 

NasaGT

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#11
  • Aug 7, 2006
  • #11
Nice pics Edbert! What did you use for the rest of your exhaust setup?
 

Edbert

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#12
  • Aug 7, 2006
  • #12
I don't want to hijack this thread but I bought the 2.5" flowmaster tailpipes and used 2.5 Magnaflow muffs. If I had it to do over I'd just get the full Magnaflow setup, it is a better deal than the flowmaster, but it was not available at the time.
 

NasaGT

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#13
  • Aug 7, 2006
  • #13
Thanks - I didn't mean to hijack the thread either - it was close to on-topic.
 

dennis112

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Aug 8, 2006
#14
  • Aug 8, 2006
  • #14
5.0ina66 said:
The 351W manifolds work, heck they even work in 65-6 cars.
Click to expand...

I tried this with a set of 69' 351w manifolds. They were too wide to fit in my 65' with a 351w.
 

Edbert

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#15
  • Aug 8, 2006
  • #15
I always thought the engine compartment (as well as most of the inner chassis) was the same 67-70. Is that not true?
 

Stangninjak

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Aug 8, 2006
#16
  • Aug 8, 2006
  • #16
I run a 351w in a 65 coupe, with headman's headers and I have no problems getting in. I run a toploader. I redid my z bar due to the fact I went to a newer 351 block, but the exhaust fits.
 

boss_302

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Aug 7, 2005
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mustangland
Aug 8, 2006
#17
  • Aug 8, 2006
  • #17
Stangninjak said:
I run a 351w in a 65 coupe, with headman's headers and I have no problems getting in. I run a toploader. I redid my z bar due to the fact I went to a newer 351 block, but the exhaust fits.
Click to expand...
what part no headmans are you using? Also how did you modify the z-bar.thanks javed
 
M

mustangdave

My rearend needs a stud and two nuts.
Founding Member
Feb 26, 2002
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56
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Aug 8, 2006
#18
  • Aug 8, 2006
  • #18
Edbert said:
I always thought the engine compartment (as well as most of the inner chassis) was the same 67-70. Is that not true?
Click to expand...

I think the 67/68 are narrower than the 69/70.
 

70vert

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Aug 8, 2006
#19
  • Aug 8, 2006
  • #19
Same Q, what Hedman part #, 88660?

Edbert,
Great pics, and they look like they don't hang *too* low. They look like Hedman 88660s, as per this link:

http://www.hedman.com/pages/hedmanmain.html

The footnotes are clear as mud, of course. They claim "power steering bracked #20120 required" but I assume this is with standard PS, not a rack, "With automatic transmission, C-4 only", "When equipped with manual transmission, will not fit with Ford top loader trans." (but read between the lines, WILL work with T-5, TKO?, "Engine must be centered between frame rails, per instructions. Modification to clutch linkage may be needed."

All this seems to be saying in effect, "if you did a T-5 swap and are using cable or hydraulic clutch and not an original Z-bar, you should be in the clear"

I am using a Steeroids rack, and they recommend Hedman's 88300, but that just has the footnotes "C-4 automatic only" and not all the caveats about manual trans, so I am assuming that the 88300 won't work at all with a manual and I should be looking at the 88660?



Edbert said:
That is what I used too, Hedmann Elite "351W swap" units. The AOD is known to have header clearance issues and these fit fine (the collector is close to the pan but clears). I have a number of pictures on my site (http://www.edbert.net/randp.htm), in the second picture you can see the driver's side has taken a clutch into consideration, I just don't know if it is enough for you.

I do not want to say that they'll fit a manual trans since I have no first-hand experience and would hate to steer you wrong. Maybe this is a good excuse for that hydraulic clutch?
Click to expand...
 
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