351W Head bolts

ARP stud it and forget it.

Extreme case example--Neighbor runs 30lbs boost on his 700hp 4 banger and found that the head needed tighten down after every race or so--using standard ARP studs at the time. He did his research and bought 10 special alloy ARP studs for the princely sum of $1100. That solved the problem.

lol 4 banger not much of an economy car huh?

Nope, no more machine work than normal. They tend do leak if you don't seal them at the deck sometimes. I don't like to. It's a mess to clean up if they come out. If it leaks a little, they usually rust and stop leaking pretty quickly. They are a little more difficult to torque than bolts though. Just have to pay attention more is all though. Studs like to bind.

351w has blind headbolts. No water leaks.

BottleFed70 said:

OK, so what's involved with installing studs? Some sort of machine work I assume..

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Just clean the treads in the block and put a little oil on the head stud threads. Tighten them finger tight into the block. Don't snug the studs tight into the block. Install heads and be sure to lube the top stud threads and washers. Torque to recommended specs.

brianj5600 said:

351w has blind headbolts. No water leaks.

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Oh yeah. Durrrr, sorry. Always have 8.2 on the brain.

Didn't have time earlier to explain. Studs bind pretty easy and they can be a pain in the ass. They aren't a simple lube and torque. When you do head studs, sometimes you feel it get tight, and right before you think it'll click, it will get easy again and keep going. It was bound up. You need to back it off and try it again.I've had to do a single stud multiple times before it will torque correctly. You need to make sure its right. If you don't they can click, but not have the clamp force needed to keep the head down correctly. MANY people do studs incorrectly and lift heads.

I would get ARP bolts. I'm not sure how much engine bay room there is in a '70, but it will probably be easier to pull the heads with the engine in the bay if you don't have to lift them all the way over a set of studs. I really doubt you'll be losing gaskets because the bolts can't hold the heads down.

dennis112 said:

Extreme case example--Neighbor runs 30lbs boost on his 700hp 4 banger and found that the head needed tighten down after every race or so--using standard ARP studs at the time. He did his research and bought 10 special alloy ARP studs for the princely sum of $1100. That solved the problem.

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Something similar has been reported by a few in the 2.3 turbo arena. The problem is actually the studs working too well. The straight shank ARP studs don't stretch enough and when the head gets hot and expands, it crushes the head gasket and the studs seem loose. The undercut studs are more elastic and allow enough movement to keep the gasket from getting squashed.

I have had my heads off in the car with ARP studs. I got a good deal on mine from my machine shop. They were ordered by someone and not picked up. I was going to re-use the stockers. I had good luck on 2 nitrous 302's using stock 7/16" bolt, but luck may be the key word. My budget is not so tight these days so this time around I bought studs. Having a turbo will make changing head gasket a little harder and if having studs saves a gasket or 2, they will more than pay for themselves in sweat and dollars.