351W Info

First thing to consider is price. The shop I talked to today, said that to do a 393 CORRECTLY, and to have your car like it, you'll be spending about 8-10,000 dollars when it's all said and done. You'll basically need to change everything. But why not go for it. I'm dead set on doing one in mine.

Yes its a very expensive build up, given you get the best of everything

Like nik said, expect to spend 8k, or more. Im over 7k into my settup.

You do not have to drill the motor mounts back, i dunn who told you that


You might as well start big, go 418 , AFR225's, FTI cam, trickflow box intake, kooks 1-7/8 headers, someone told me its a good combo

If your going 393 (which i orginally planned on), id go with afr 205's, FTI cam, kooks 1-7/8 headers, trickflow R intake. Email ed and he will set you up with a nice combo


Heres a quick list of things to be changed/altered. PM(or aIM -JGK6776) me with any questions on the swap.

)Convertible motor mounts (they are beefier then coupes, you could also use drop mounts, but they are solid)
2)Heads need 1/2 inch holes
3)lower intake
4)94 lightning distributor, then swap the gear from your old dist onto the lightning one. FYI, lightning used a flat tappet hyd motor, so the dist gear was cast, not steel like ours. If your using a hyd ROLLER cam, it must be steel.
5)new longer belt!
6)If your using an older block (non roller), you will need to either tap the block for the spider hold down(for the lifters), or use tie-bar lifters which cost 400+. If you dont use a hyd roller cam, then it wont matter.
7)swap headers, KOOKS!
8)The rubber hoses that go from the water pump to heater pipe and thermostat need to be longer. I went to autozone to get the one from the lightning, but i didnt no what to call them, so i just boought some over sized pieces of rubber hoses that were the same sizes and cut them to fit.
9) Rubber hose between rails needs to be replaced with longer hose(high pressure fuel injection hose)
10)Oil pan - canton 7qt
11) new balancer and flywheel (28.8 oz, unless the motor is zero balanced)
12) cowl hood

cowl hood being an understatement. more like any hood with a huge hole in the middle

its gonna be costly like said...your also IMO gonna need a new tranny FOR SURE with that motor...the T5 is a ticking time bomb on a stock 302 let a lone a stroked 351....and the rear end is gonna need to be seriously beefed up....

Anthony

I got off the phone with my friend about this very subject. We looked at 331 and 347 strokers and then he asked why I just don't go "big time" and go with a big Windsor. He found an all-forged rotating assembly for a 408 that was real cheap but I am afraid of going with a 408 because if something goes wrong, I'm screwed. By that I mean I can't just bore it out a little more and put in bigger cylinders. I don't want to max out the bore first thing for that reason. To me, one benefit to having more cubes is that you can make the combo more mild, which makes it more streetable, but still make plenty of power. It will be expensive though for sure. I have $4,000 holed away and should have double that when he gets back from school (two months) which is when we will start working on it. You need to have plenty of money so you can do it right the first time and get it the way you like it. The last thing you want to do is build a motor and then not be happy with it.

For a 393 I would go with AFR 205's, custom ground cam (FTI!), and either the Trickflow R or Edelbrock Victor Jr. intake. I believe the stock hood should clear depending on what intake you use (NOT Jesse's!) and what type of motor mounts. I think there is a guy here with a 351 under the stock hood.

Most 351 blocks are 9.5 inchs deck height. The 69 block is a little shorter(9.4X). 302's are 8.2, so the 351 is ~ 1.3 inchs taller, and a bit wider.
If your looking for pics, search my name, i have a bunch of threads with pics of my engine, and it in my car.

Swinginline - I can see your point about the bore, but with a stock block i wouldnt worry about it. If it was an expensive dart block i would agree 100%. But stock 351 blocks are a dime a dozen. I also dont think fitting one under a stock hood is possible, MAYBE with drop mounts, and a custom sheetmetal upper intake ontop of the EFI spyder lower.

I tried placing my old typhoon intake ontop of my block and shutting the hood. Wouldnt close either, and thats with the 98 cobra hood.

There is a reason the cobra R had a cowl....

I could swear there is a guy here (he has 351 in his name...I think) that fit one in. Maybe he had a Cobra R hood though... I never thought about how common stock 351W blocks are so you have a really good point. I would still rather bore the original block out more than have to buy a new one. I have been looking at stuff all day and I have pretty much decided to go with either a 331 or 347. Or a long-rod 306. So I guess I haven't really decided on anything...

From what I've been told 500 horse would be pretty attainable on a 393. I'd assume spending that much money you'll do a girdle and other things, so it would be fine with the power. And I have seen one on here running a stock hood. Don't remember any of the details though.

if your gonna spend the money, id check into aftermarket blocks...idk if Dart makes a 351 block but thats the way id go over a production block...they will hold more power


Anthony

Nik_92Stang said:

From what I've been told 500 horse would be pretty attainable on a 393. And I have seen one on here running a stock hood. Don't remember any of the details though.

Click to expand...

500 easy.

You can get dropped mounts on a tubular k-member (AJE) and drop 1-1/2" and then lose another 3/4" with HPM solid drop motor mounts. This is assuming a TrickFlow R upper & lower. I didn't do any measuring with any other intakes. I wanted to go this route, but then I needed to drop the trans crossmember also. Driveline geometry became a concern that I just didn't feel like dealing with so I just got a Cobra R hood and the HPM drop mounts instead. I can't tell you how all this stuff fits because I don't have it all together yet.

hi Im rebiulding a 351 Windsor. This is my first ever ( along with my dad ) What would be resonable biuld up to get 350-400 Hp. I want to drop it into some sort of fox GT. I have a Thread started in "Race Tech". I need alot of help before i start anything so any help would be appreciated. Anything you know will help me out. Thanks

400hp from a 351 is easy. I'm assuming this is going into a 94/95?

351w .030" over.
10:1 compression.
Lunati 51014 camshaft (or similar)(change specs accordingly for an AT)
Trick Flow Street Heat intake (efi) OR Weiand Stealth intake (carb)
70mm TB
76-80mm air meter
24# or 30# fuel injectors (I'd start with 30# and step down if needed)
1-3/4" long tube headers
2-1/2" offroad pipe OR Hi-Flow cat pipe
2-1/2" catback system
aluminum radiator (Fluidyne, Griffin, RonDavis, etc...)
Flex-A-Lite fan controller
FlowKooler water pump

That should get you in the neighbor hood of 400hp.

Don't forget some quality instruments to monitor your investment:
Oil pressure & Water temp gauges (VDO, Autometer, Autogage)

And some driveline parts that'll handle the extra umph:
SPEC billet steel flywheel
SPEC Stage 2 clutch set
FMS aluminum driveshaft & METCO safety loop
FMS 3.73 or 3.55 gears (maybe even 4.10 for an AT)
Eaton or Detroit differential (at a minimum rebuild the stock traclok)

Some suspension upgrades wouldn't hurt either:
Tubular upper & lower control arms
Kenny Brown Super Subs

If I were working on a tight budget, the previous list would be my choice of parts. This would make a very reliable daily driver. PM or e-mail anytime.

good luck,
Jared.