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351w internalss help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  • Thread starter Thread starter 67staaang
  • Start date Start date Jan 29, 2007
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ForceFed70

That's why they call it "dope"
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Jan 31, 2007
#21
  • Jan 31, 2007
  • #21
67staaang said:
so guys back to one of my original questions... is it possible to get 400 rwhp with out stroking my 351w? ive been looking at stroker kits but i really just want to keep it a 351w for this build! thanks again guys!
Click to expand...

It's possible without a power adder, but you wouldn't want to drive it on the street.
 

LMan

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#22
  • Jan 31, 2007
  • #22
BottleFed70 said:
It's possible without a power adder, but you wouldn't want to drive it on the street.
Click to expand...

Yup...shore would be a load easier with a stroker.....no doubt bout that.
 
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67staaang

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#23
  • Jan 31, 2007
  • #23
is it possible to turn my 185s into 190cc? because i have already bought my afr 185s.. so if i go with a stroker it would hold my hp down is that correct???
 

SoCalCruising

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#24
  • Feb 1, 2007
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Yes, of course. The engine is an air pump: the more air you can flow/pump into it, the power you can make. That's very general and there are lots of caveats, but it is true as a very basic statement. The very first match you want to make, when you are starting with a clean sheet of paper, is what heads best suit the application. If you use the 185s and a cam something like the XE282HR, you can make about 500hp with a 393 or 408, with those heads. If you had AFR 205s, you'd make it with an XE274HR (a little less cam). To make it with a 351, you would need to step up, probably, to a solid roller with more duration, because you would be making the power at RPMs that would "challenge" most hydraulic lifters. Maybe it could be done using lightweight vavle train components, but you would pay a premium for them - more than a stroker assembly I should think.

You can have your 185s ported, but you have to take them to someone who really knows what they are doing, else they can ruin them.

Look, build a 393 using the 185s, a Victor jr. intake, an XE282HR cam (if you have a non-roller block, get the Crane retrofit roller rockers - yes they are expensive) and a 750DP carb. You will have awesome throttle response and will have trouble keeping the tires from frying. Don't get all anal about the whole thing.
 

SoCalCruising

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#25
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You can read my thoughts here: http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=683431
 
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67staaang

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#26
  • Feb 2, 2007
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thanks soo much for the info i think im going with that combo socal.. what pistons would you guys recommend with this 393 set up?? and is there any way i could upgrade or do anything to my aod so that it doesnt eat so much hp????? thanks again for preaching to the newb!!!
 

dennis112

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Feb 3, 2007
#27
  • Feb 3, 2007
  • #27
When a 302 piston is used in a 3.85 stroke 393, it will become a couple of compression points higher. So for street use and pump gas, you will want a 302 piston that has less than 8:1 compression ratio.

As a general rule,with aluminum heads you can get away with 10:1 - 10.5 on 93 octane fuel. A dished Probe 10684 piston will get you somewhere near 10:1 - 10.5:1 (depending on your combustion chamber cc's.)

See near the bottom of this link: http://www.probeindustries.com/Pistons/Pistons_SRS/Ford/Ford_351W.htm
 
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67staaang

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#28
  • Feb 4, 2007
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are there any 393w kits that you guys would recommend?? is it possible to do something to my AOD so it doesnt absorb so much hp?? thanks
 

SoCalCruising

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#29
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If you get the kit thru ADPerformance.com, Brian will set you up with the right pistons. Just tell him what compression ratio you are looking for, or ask what he offers and then choose between the options.
 
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67staaang

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#30
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i have a 74 351w block.. not really sure if its a roller or non roller block?? help anyone??.

And does anyone have a 393 with afr 185s set up?? if so what are you numbers??? thanks
 
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67staaang

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#31
  • Feb 7, 2007
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the block is also bored out .02... would i ahve to take it to the shop so they can bore it out to .03???
 

dennis112

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#32
  • Feb 7, 2007
  • #32
A 74 block is not a roller block. The roller block 351w came out in 1994.

If you need to have your cylinders bored from .020 to .030, yes you will need the services of a machine shop. You can't do this at home without the proper (and expensive) equipment.
 
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JEE740

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#33
  • Feb 7, 2007
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This thread has helped to shine some light on a few gray areas I had between the two different combos. Does anyone know of any books they'd recommend on building a small block stroker? I've seen a few listed online, but didn't know how worthwhile they are. Thanks
 

SoCalCruising

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#34
  • Feb 8, 2007
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I've said many times that this book
http://www.amazon.com/Building-Ford...ef=sr_1_1/104-9345257-1398358?ie=UTF8&s=books
is the best I've found. I used it quite a bit when building my 331. It has sections on building a 357, 306, and 347. It does not, however, address the merits of of one configuration vs the other, except to note the lightweight nature of the 347 over a 357. Still, it a very wothwhile book to have and covers all of the tolerances and msny of the build methods for these small blocks.
 
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67staaang

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#35
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since my block is not a roller block would i have problems using comp cams 282hr??? what ratio lifters should i use? and what kind?? 1.6/1.7??
 

SoCalCruising

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#36
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1.6 rockers.
You will need to use the Crane link-bar roller lifters made for early blocks. They are pricey, but better than using a reduced base circle cam - also known as retrofit roller cams. These cams are weaker because of the reduced base circle requirements (smaller diameter core) and the profiles are limited. Just close your eyes and order the Crane link-bar lifters.
 
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67staaang

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#37
  • Feb 9, 2007
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do you guys think the 282hr is suitable for daily and street driving??
 
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67staaang

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#38
  • Feb 12, 2007
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????
 

SoCalCruising

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#39
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On a 393? Yes. It has only a bit more duration (mostly on the exhaust) than what I am running on my 331 and my motor is very streetable.
 
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67staaang

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#40
  • Feb 13, 2007
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hows the idle socal??
 
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