351W Stroker

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wickedmach1

New Member

Apr 8, 2003

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Austin, TX

Sep 5, 2003

#1

• Sep 5, 2003

• #1

What do you guys think about stroking a '69 351W to 427? The engine will be put in my '70 Mach 1. Any dangers? What modifications will I need to make to the block? What extra parts will I need? Thanks.

 

88 Fox GT

Active Member

Nov 18, 2002

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Iowa

Sep 5, 2003

#2

• Sep 5, 2003

• #2

Don't you need the Ford Racing block to make it into a 427?

 

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wickedmach1

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Apr 8, 2003

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Austin, TX

Sep 5, 2003

#3

• Sep 5, 2003

• #3

Maybe a 392 or 393 will be better. The car will be for the street. I don't want to be rebuilding the engine every 5,000 miles. What does everyone think? What sort of setup would work best? (heads, camm...) Does someone have an estimate for HP?

 

70mustang63b

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May 22, 2002

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Sep 5, 2003

#4

• Sep 5, 2003

• #4

Check out www.coasthigh.com for strokers, they are going to build my '70's 427...occasional use street car.

 

rbohm

Founding Member

Apr 12, 2002

6,698

550

204

tucson,az

Sep 6, 2003

#5

• Sep 6, 2003

• #5

you can build a 427 using a stock block, but personally for the street i would build a 393. less stress on the block, better economy(if that is even a concern), less expensive to build.

 

SadbutTrue

Founding Member

May 1, 2002

2,390

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49

Granada Hills, California

Sep 6, 2003

#6

• Sep 6, 2003

• #6

the 454 stroker requires the ford racing block, 427s can be done to a stock block.

I'm trying to put together a 393 plan, pending on being able to get it to hold up on a daily basis (and not rip itself to shreds).

 

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65racecoupe

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Mar 24, 2002

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Tempe, AZ

Sep 7, 2003

#7

• Sep 7, 2003

• #7

You can get more power than you ever need out of a 393. Use the money you will save on a 427 for some good heads.

You can easily get 550 HP from a 393 that is totally streetable.

 

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wickedmach1

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Apr 8, 2003

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Austin, TX

Sep 7, 2003

#8

• Sep 7, 2003

• #8

What combination of heads and cam would you go with on the 393 to make 550hp? My block is a '69 351W. Anyting else to think about to make it a well balanced engine? Thanks.

 

DarkBuddha

Founding Member

Dec 11, 2001

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Seattle & Tampa

Sep 7, 2003

#9

• Sep 7, 2003

• #9

You may want to check out Speedomotive, since they've got a number of different 351W based stroker motors (completely assembled), including a 393, 408, 418, and 426. http://www.speedomotive.com/FORD SMALL BLOCK ASSEMBLED ENGINES.htm

I'm seriously considering going with either their 393 or 408, using a good set of ported stock '70 351W heads, GT40Ps, or perhaps AFRs (since built AFRs with a good set of headers will cost the same as GT40Ps and special custom headers).

Also, I've heard the rod ratio was better on a 393 or 408 vs. the larger 427... something to consider for durability and efficiency.

Hope this helps...

 

Tinnocker

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Jun 29, 2002

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Sep 7, 2003

#10

• Sep 7, 2003

• #10

Look at my sig , you will need around .600 lift

 

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3spd on floor

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Aug 13, 2002

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Acworth, GA

Sep 7, 2003

#11

• Sep 7, 2003

• #11

speaking of speedomotive...has anyone bought anything from them? their prices are a lot better than most other places i've found (CHP and DSS)...might this reflect the quality of their work?

 

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wickedmach1

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Apr 8, 2003

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Austin, TX

Sep 7, 2003

#12

• Sep 7, 2003

• #12

DarkBuddha,

I was happy to hear you are thinking about using '70 351W heads. I hear a bunch of people say they aren't worth nothing and won't flow good. What's the deal? I have a set that I was going to use. I completed a port match myself and removed the humps. I was thinking about getting them professionally ported. When is it not worth investing the money in the heads and deciding to go with aftermarket cast heads. Thanks for your help.

 

SadbutTrue

Founding Member

May 1, 2002

2,390

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49

Granada Hills, California

Sep 7, 2003

#13

• Sep 7, 2003

• #13

Tinnoker, could i get your email? I have a bunch of questions cause i am trying to get a 393 stroker into a 66 and keep it somewhat daily-driverable.

 

2bav8

Founding Member

Nov 30, 1998

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Mesa, AZ

Sep 7, 2003

#14

• Sep 7, 2003

• #14

If you're looking for 550 HP +/- I'd rather build a 408.

 

SadbutTrue

Founding Member

May 1, 2002

2,390

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49

Granada Hills, California

Sep 7, 2003

#15

• Sep 7, 2003

• #15

can 15 cube make that much difference?

 

DarkBuddha

Founding Member

Dec 11, 2001

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Seattle & Tampa

Sep 7, 2003

#16

• Sep 7, 2003

• #16

wickedmach1 said:

DarkBuddha,

I was happy to hear you are thinking about using '70 351W heads. I hear a bunch of people say they aren't worth nothing and won't flow good. What's the deal? I have a set that I was going to use. I completed a port match myself and removed the humps. I was thinking about getting them professionally ported. When is it not worth investing the money in the heads and deciding to go with aftermarket cast heads. Thanks for your help.

Click to expand...

Yeah, I've thought about it a bit... I've seen that they can flow decently, but they'll never be as good as a set of newer aftermarket heads that have the advantage of 3 decades of technical development and engineering. Still, if you want a way to compare flow numbers on some popular heads, check out http://www.jason.fletcher.net/tech/flowdata/castiron.htm

If I do go with the '70 heads, I plan on doing the porting myself. I've done some porting on a couple intakes now, and even a Fiat head, so I'm confident enough... its just a matter of patience.

As for Speedomotive, I've never purchased anything from them, but they've been in the business forever, and I remember seeing their engine build ups in many magazines in the late '80s and early '90s. The fact that their engines come with a warranty makes me feel a bit better too... I'm sure as heck gonna get some references when/if I decide to buy from them.

 

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1badII

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Aug 5, 2003

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Durham, North Cacalaky

Sep 8, 2003

#17

• Sep 8, 2003

• #17

Some guy posted a while back on the 5.0 board that he built a 427W for his Bronco, and it has run reliably for 20,000 miles so far. That was a few months ago, and some of the miles were from long road trips.

 

1320stang

Founding Member

Nov 13, 1998

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89

Edmond, Oklahoma

Sep 8, 2003

#18

• Sep 8, 2003

• #18

Deep pocket porting is where you'll get the most return for your effort. This is in the area of the elbow where the valve guide pokes thru into the port. From the valve seat to right after the trun where it goes straight up to the intake port is where the most improvements can be made from what I understand. I have a set of ported '69 351W heads (same head as the 70) that have been on a 289 with a tunnel ram with dual 660's and the motor ran 11.0's in the 1/4 in a 4-speed 3000# ladder bar car w/ 9x30 slicks. I'm sure some aluminum heads would be an improvement in the same car (the motor is now in a different car with some out of the box Canfields on it, but it's now backed by a C4 in a 3200# with slapper bars on street tires) if for nothing else than just to take some weight off the front end.

 

Doubledown20

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Jun 3, 2003

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Sacramento, CA

Sep 8, 2003

#19

• Sep 8, 2003

• #19

My under standing about the 427 stroker is that you have to do alot of cylinder notching as well as the oil pump area etc..
I put together 408 forged eagle stroker with a 69 block and only had to do a little grinding on the oil pump and oil pump mounting area everything else clears perfectly fine. If you aren't worried about the milling for the 427 the only other thing i would look into is the rod lengths to see if it changes from the 408 packages because the angles will change and it could cause alot more stress on the outer walls of the cylinders. Personaly after researching i would stay with the 408 or below. I went efi and got the trick flow upper and lower, used trickflow twisted wedge heads and I think someone posted before on the cam lift, i went with a hydrolic roller and like 63 lift.. i have to double check the specs card for you..

 

SoCalCruising

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Jul 25, 2000

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SoCal

Sep 8, 2003

#20

• Sep 8, 2003

• #20

Personally, I wouldn't go bigger than a 393 if it is to be a reliable street piece that will see some miles over its life. Also, I would base the motor on a 6.2" or 6.25" rod. This will yield a decent rod ratio. Always ask about rod length when you are investigating stroker kits. Many of the cheaper kits are based on a stock rod and 302 piston. These are inexpensive, but the rod ratio is pretty marginal, IMHO. With the right heads (AFR 185s, for example), even a fairly mild cam will make 500ft-lbs and 500 hp and idle nearly like a stocker.