If you were to swap the 302 for a 351w, did Mac make long tube headers for the engine swap? I love how they sound on a 302 and bbk is expenive for their quality with a less appealing sound.
I will tell you from experience that the MAC long tubes suck. The reason for this is the primaries bolt to the head individually i.e. do not have a one piece flange and that makes it a huge pain to get them to line up and the header bolts to start. When they are new they just about bolt right up but after a few heat cycles they move all over the place.
The BBK's have a one piece flange that is 3/8" thick and keeps all of the primary tubes tied together and line right back up after being heat cycled.
I also had the MAC shorties on my Coupe and those literally got tossed in the trash. I have used BBK's on the car for over 15 years and they have performed very well. I did clean up the welds on in the ID of the flanges (removed some of the weld as it was overkill and restricting the opening) and open up the fire cones (2-1/8" opening to 2-3/8") which took a couple of hours with some carbide burr bits and a die grinder.
I do no know the part number for the MAC long tubes (checked the build file on the car) but you should check the BBK's out as they seem to have good reviews.
I will tell you from experience that the MAC long tubes suck. The reason for this is the primaries bolt to the head individually i.e. do not have a one piece flange and that makes it a huge pain to get them to line up and the header bolts to start. When they are new they just about bolt right up but after a few heat cycles they move all over the place.
The BBK's have a one piece flange that is 3/8" thick and keeps all of the primary tubes tied together and line right back up after being heat cycled.
I also had the MAC shorties on my Coupe and those literally got tossed in the trash. I have used BBK's on the car for over 15 years and they have performed very well. I did clean up the welds on in the ID of the flanges (removed some of the weld as it was overkill and restricting the opening) and open up the fire cones (2-1/8" opening to 2-3/8") which took a couple of hours with some carbide burr bits and a die grinder.
I do no know the part number for the MAC long tubes (checked the build file on the car) but you should check the BBK's out as they seem to have good reviews.
There not bad going on the first time but they can be a pita after a few heat cycles and the move around, you can fix that pretty easy if ya got a welder. I wish someone made some decent China stainless ones like they do for the ls stuff. They have em for the coyote swap just not sbf stuff unless you cut up a pair of ls swap headers. The did knock off the shorties though lol.
I will tell you from experience that the MAC long tubes suck. The reason for this is the primaries bolt to the head individually i.e. do not have a one piece flange and that makes it a huge pain to get them to line up and the header bolts to start. When they are new they just about bolt right up but after a few heat cycles they move all over the place.
The BBK's have a one piece flange that is 3/8" thick and keeps all of the primary tubes tied together and line right back up after being heat cycled.
I have to disagree to a point ... I have ran MAC shorties on multiple cars(including my current car), and one 351 swap... And MAC 351 longtubes on one car..
I've also run a couple flanged shorties, don't remember the brands. Both sets of flanged headers warped in the middle(pulled away from the heads) and I could never get them to stay sealed after that. New gaskets twice a season, always blown in the middle ports.
The mac's, yes they warp after the initial install, BUT... They can be realigned with a pry bar pretty easy and then they stay sealed far better in my experience.
thanks. I just dont want to go with BBK because I hear their welds are pretty bad but it seems these headers virtually disappeared and are only available online, used, for the 302.