351w swap, water pump/radiator ?'s...

mikec35

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Jul 6, 2004
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I have a 67 stang with a 351w in it. The water pump dumps to the passenger side and the radiator hose is run across the sway bar beneath the harmonic balancer to the radiator on the drivers side. It is wired loosely to the sway bar to stop it from hitting the balancer. What is the fix? I was thinking of taking the radiator to a shop to have the inlet moved to the passenger side. Is this the right thing to do or does anyone have any suggestions? Thx..
 
By far, the easiest (and probably cheapest) way is for you to continue with your plan to relocate your radiator's outlet so that it is on the passenger side too.

Yes, you can use the driver's side outlet water pump from something like a 70'+ Mustang and that will relocate your hose, BUT it will also create another problem in that you will no longer be able to see the existing timing marks on your harmonic balancer. It will be covered by the new outlet location. :bang:

Solutions to that include using the 70' or later balancer or remarking your existing balancer. Of course a newer balancer requires different pulleys using 4 bolts for attachment. . . . Your timing cover still wouldn't be marked either!

Just fix your radiator and be done with it.
 
brianj5600 said:
If the person that did the swap used the parts that came with the 351, wouldn't likely already have 4 bolt balancer and passenger side timing mark?

Good Question.

260's, 289's, 302's, and the 351w through 69' used a passenger side lower radiator outlet on the water pump. The radiator outlet was also on the passenger side. The timing indicator was mounted on the driver's side and the harmonic balancer supported only 3 mounting bolts.

In 1970 things changed. From then on the 302 and the 351w both were changed to driver side radiator outlets at the water pump, driver's side radiator outlet, timing indicators were relocated to the passenger side, a new harmonic balancer that allowed you to read the timing on the passenger side, and that balancer was drilled for the new 4 bolt pulleys.

What makes things fun is that all of this stuff can be swapped with each other--sometimes with good results, sometimes with bad results BUT they all will fit. For example, my 89' 393W uses many parts from the original 65' 289. The timing cover, water pump, harmonic balancer (28 oz), and the 3 bolt pulleys work just fine.

It is best to swap all or nothing because of the problems I referred too in the above post.

You have to be carefull playing with the later 302's because Ford switched to 50oz balancing so you would have to continue using the newer balancer. On the otherhand, 351w's all remained 28oz--just like the 65' 289. :)

Soooooo, the original poster either has a 69' 351w OR someone did the same swap as I did using the earlier parts on a later engine.
 
It is supposed to be a 69 351w out of a mach 1. The #'s I can easily see are on the stock 4 barrel intake, its dated 1969. The timing pointer is on the drivers side. Thanks for the replies. I think the easiest thing is to get the radiator outlet swapped to the other side. Anyone know where to get a new hose, what size or part#? Is the 69 351w motor a good motor? Thx.. Mike
 
mikec35 said:
It is supposed to be a 69 351w out of a mach 1. The #'s I can easily see are on the stock 4 barrel intake, its dated 1969. The timing pointer is on the drivers side. Thanks for the replies. I think the easiest thing is to get the radiator outlet swapped to the other side. Anyone know where to get a new hose, what size or part#? Is the 69 351w motor a good motor? Thx.. Mike

Just order a hose for the 69' 351w. You could also order one for a 65' 289--"should" be the same part #.

The 69' 351w is one of the most desireable years to have because it is cast stronger than the 72' and any of the newer blocks. A lot more meat around the crank bearing webs and pan rails.

About the only problem they have is that the block deck was made slightly shorter than the 72' and newer blocks and that can cause some confusion as to what piston to use, without hitting the head.
 
I have the same problem in that my 302 dumps on the driver's side. I had a shop move the port on the rad to make it work. The rad may be close to the end of its life now and I may have to replace it and was thinking of getting the older water pump as well, but it looks like the alternator would be problematic or require different brackets. I like the notion of the bent pipe. It would also add volume to the system. However, with both the inlet and outlet on the same side of the rad, isn't there a tendency for the coolant to bypass most of the core as opposed to flowing diagonally through the rad?
 
I don't know the principles as to how water flows through the radiator, but I had a 67 coupe that I put a 302 in and moved the radiator outlet to the passenger side, same as the inlet and it caused no heating problems.
 
mikec35 said:
I don't know the principles as to how water flows through the radiator, but I had a 67 coupe that I put a 302 in and moved the radiator outlet to the passenger side, same as the inlet and it caused no heating problems.


I wouldn't really worry too much about the flow issue here due to the fact tat you’re simply setting up your radiator up just like a stock 69. i only recommend this if your current radiator is in good condition. if its older, say 5 years or older, i'd get a new radiator with tthe correct arangemet of connections already on it. take in consideration the time to pull it, drive it down and have the work done, then wait, the get it back and reinstall it with the new hose. this is alot of bs to do on a radiator if you have to just redo it in a couple years anyway.

So far your choices are to

get the correct '69 351w rediator
get a new waterpump/pulleys and brackets
get the shop to hook you up with new outlet on the correct side
get a conversion type hose from mustangs plus or national parts depot
keep it the way it is


it's looking like all you have to do is make a few decisions. good luck
 
I had my lower radiator outlet moved to the passenger side. The guy that did it did not move it far enough over and I cannot use my clutch fan anymore because it hits the bottom hose. Changed to a stock 4 blade fan and it now overheats. I am going to get a new radiator and shroud and reinstall my 7 blade clutch fan. Wasted $35. Will a 69 radiator fit ok in a 67FB? Also any clearance problems with a 3 or 4 row? I think a standard brass radiator will be ok, any suggestions where to buy to get the best price? Thx..