393/408w stroker clearance templates?

I just put a scat 408 stroker together. I had no clearance problems in the block? I had to notch my main girdle to clear the rods but not the block. So I don't if I got lucky??

I am pretty sure you don't need to clearance the block for a 393. I just put my 393 bottom end together, and had no problems (Scat crank). I have heard that going 408 or higher can get you into clearance issues.

I have put 2 408's together that needed no clearance notches for the rod bolts when they were ARP 8740 cap screws, both were older block 74-77.

If you use a ARP2000 cap screw it is slightly taller and will require a very small notch. I had to notch the 2 rear cylinders very slightly. Best to mock it up and check, you need .080" min with a steel rod.

You should mock the assembly up anyway to check thrust, rod side clearance etc if you want to do it right.

I had to notch the oil pump only when I "had" my 393.

I split the block on what would have been a 9 second pass...

Using my 69' Block I had Rod Bolt clearence issue's with my 408. I had to notch the cylinder wall's a bit, as well as the oil pan rail in one spot and a bunch of grinding close to were the Oil Pump Mount's. This was all with a Scat 9000 Crank and Scat H-Beam Rod's equipped with ARP Bolts. I did all the notching/clearencing before I sent the engine to the machine shop. I used some old bearing's I had laying around cleaned them up and coated them with some good grease to prevent scratching the Scat Crank and Rod Up. (Just To Be safe I had the machine shop give the crank a quick polish after anyhow) Using one rod I checked each Cylinder (Turning the Crank a full stroke for each cyl.) and marked were I had to do the grinding.... Did all the grinding required, put the crank/rod back in to double check my work and off too the machine shop she went. Very Time Consuming But Required and will save you a bit of money rather then getting the machine shop to do it. For guy's converting to roller (Spider/Dog Bone Retainer Type) now's the time too drill the hole's for the spider and grind some material down off some of the lifter bosses so the dog bone's sit flat as well. As for the Main Cap Girdle... I used a Probe ChromeMoly Piece and had no clearence problem's with it at all.
As for 393's I've heard some guy's having to do some minor grinding and other's having none at all. It mostly depend's on what rotating assy. combo your using and what year the block is. Regardless of what people say I would still spend the time and check everything weather it's a 393 or a 408+... but that's just me. Good luck With The Build!!!

Shon

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