393W for $2199 ... damn

BlackVert

15 Year Member

Oct 3, 2003

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Aug 21, 2006

#1

• Aug 21, 2006

• #1

http://www.coasthigh.com/Assemblies/Ford/ford_393w.htm

$2199 for a 393 "Street Fighter-GT" short block. damn hard to beat that ...

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

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#2

• Aug 21, 2006

• #2

Ruh roh, Chris's wheels are turning in OD right now.

What did you figure out with your existing motor?

 

BlackVert

15 Year Member

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Aug 22, 2006

#3

• Aug 22, 2006

• #3

ruh roh ... hehe ... i guess that makes me shaggy, afraid that something is terribly wrong with my motor

i was just flipping thru my latest 5.0 mag and i came across it.

still don't know much ... car runs pretty good with the new plugs, but still burning oil. had another cloud of smoke at start up today. i just filled up yesterday and it needed oil. next fill up (at the end of the week), i'll check how much oil it needs.

no knocking under normal part throttle conditions. i don't want to step on it because i don't want to make it any worse than it already is.

 

reddy351

10 Year Member

Jun 13, 2006

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Aug 22, 2006

#4

• Aug 22, 2006

• #4

If it's blue smoke when you start it and under heavy acceleration, it sounds like valve seals. Since one plug was fouled, maybe you have a bent valve or really worn valve guide. (Of course, if maybe it was over-revved, it could be all of the above with a side order of cracked piston. Floating the valves can do that.) Just a thought.

 

Pokageek

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Jun 10, 2005

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Aug 22, 2006

#5

• Aug 22, 2006

• #5

I am thinking about selling my 306 short block (in the car running right now). ARP Rod Bolts, Flat top pistons and nice cam. Then put your blower on that since you already have one!

 

BlackVert

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Oct 3, 2003

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Aug 22, 2006

#6

• Aug 22, 2006

• #6

Pokageek said:

I am thinking about selling my 306 short block (in the car running right now). ARP Rod Bolts, Flat top pistons and nice cam. Then put your blower on that since you already have one!

Click to expand...

why are you selling your motor ... what is your plan?

i sent you a pm.

 

BlackVert

15 Year Member

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#7

• Aug 22, 2006

• #7

Reddy351 said:

If it's blue smoke when you start it and under heavy acceleration, it sounds like valve seals. Since one plug was fouled, maybe you have a bent valve or really worn valve guide. (Of course, if maybe it was over-revved, it could be all of the above with a side order of cracked piston. Floating the valves can do that.) Just a thought.

Click to expand...

i never rev it past 5000, so that rules over-revving it out.

can valve seals be checked without taking off the heads? leakdown test?

 

M

mackey

Active Member

Jan 25, 2003

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Aug 22, 2006

#8

• Aug 22, 2006

• #8

I'd go for a 351 based motor if it wasn't $1000+ for the headers and intake for the car.

 

final5-0

Mustang Master

Apr 6, 2003

6,817

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79

DFW Texas

Aug 22, 2006

#9

• Aug 22, 2006

• #9

I see all this talk about Windsor's in our cars but nobody talks about a new hood.

I have seen some say Saleen did it with the stock hood.

What is the scoop here

Grady

 

SorsCode

20+ Year Stangneter

Jun 10, 2003

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Aug 22, 2006

#10

• Aug 22, 2006

• #10

my is going under the stock hood. Engine isn't in yet, But the test engine I built with the intake i'm using fit just fine.

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

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#11

• Aug 22, 2006

• #11

Chris, you're right about the leakdown helping to narrow things down. The compression test told you that your compression is decent (gotta walk before you run). The leakdown would further narrow things down. I agree with Reddy about valve guides often being the cause of smoke upon start up (oil seeps into the chambers overnight). Is that normally a biggie ?- IMHO a little bit is ok.

Tom Moss has an article (IIRC) about making a homemade leakdown tester. It's something I always meant to piece together when time allowed. You need an air compressor to use it though. I'll dig around for the article if it would be of interest to you.

Good luck.

 

BlackVert

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#12

• Aug 22, 2006

• #12

I have a 96-98 Cobra hood, which I think provides a little more clearance than a stock one, so if Mr. SorsCode can get his under his stock hood, then I should have success there too.

I'll ask my mechanic how much he charges for a leakdown test.

Can one fix valve seals or guides without pulling the heads? I am guessing the answer to this is "no".

 

Pokageek

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#13

• Aug 22, 2006

• #13

I'd go with the 347 with no blower. Looks like the best deal!

 

BlackVert

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#14

• Aug 22, 2006

• #14

yeah but that is 50 fewer cubes!

 

reddy351

10 Year Member

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Aug 22, 2006

#15

• Aug 22, 2006

• #15

You can swap seals with the heads on the car. Need a compressor for that, too. Put the lifters on the base circle of the cam (both valves closed) and apply pressure to the cylinder. That will hold the valves in place while you remove the keepers and springs. Need a topside valve spring compressor. (Easy to find.) You can also shove a bunch of rope into the spark plug hole and slowly rotate the engine till both valves are being pushed up by the rope. (It's a little "ghetto" but it works. ) Guides are a different story.


Who is charging $1000 for headers and intake for a 351W?!!!!! Headers from Summit= $209 351W/FI Intake from Ebay=$200-300...max. A lot less than $1000.

 

J

Josh79

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Sep 7, 2005

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Aug 22, 2006

#16

• Aug 22, 2006

• #16

dont they make drop engine mounts that help fit a 351w under a stock hood, but i believe you need to watch which intake you get as some are taller than others. Debating/looking into dropping a 351w in this winter. 351w,347,kenne bell, turbo... so many choices

 

tmoss

Gettin Wired

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Aug 25, 2006

#17

• Aug 25, 2006

• #17

HISSIN50 said:

Tom Moss has an article (IIRC) about making a homemade leakdown tester.

Click to expand...

It's on my website in the tech section.................

 

Suspect

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#18

• Aug 25, 2006

• #18

ive been reading up on the same thing, but with emissions i dunno if i its worth it. id love to make 400 to the wheel with no power adder, but might be easier to do a 306+blower (for me at least).

thread i found on corral..
http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=71931&highlight=351w+combos

posted yesterday by someone..
http://www.sn95forums.com/forum/index.php?topic=1612.0

 

BlackVert

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Aug 25, 2006

#19

• Aug 25, 2006

• #19

Suspect said:

ive been reading up on the same thing, but with emissions i dunno if i its worth it. id love to make 400 to the wheel with no power adder, but might be easier to do a 306+blower (for me at least).

thread i found on corral..
http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=71931&highlight=351w+combos

posted yesterday by someone..
http://www.sn95forums.com/forum/index.php?topic=1612.0

Click to expand...

easier, maybe, but the cost would alot higher that way, and i need a new bottom end anyway.

 

Suspect

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#20

• Aug 25, 2006

• #20

i was talking about myself, cuz if i did do it id want to do it with all the right parts. and when picking h/c/i i have to get parts that are going to be emissions friendly. id much rather have all motor setup then to go with a s/c. i also have alot of miles on my block and would like to replace it, thats why im looking. i actually just got a quote from dss for a 306 longblock, but then i thought why not go bigger and scratch the s/c. i havent made up my mind. im reading and trying to learn and got lots of questions.