3g alt problem

MattTheBat83

New Member
Mar 31, 2006
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i spliced the white and black wire from the original harness to the the small white and black wire from the 3g alt and i ran a wire with a fuse to the starter solenoid. the gauge in the car shows low amps and the battery only reads 12.3 with the car running. the two orange and black wires from the original harness are just supposed to be cut and capped off right?
 
which wire is the stator?

On the D-shaped connector (that you do NOT plug into the new alternator. It has the two weak charge wires and one wht/blk stator wire), you splice into the stator wire in that plug, and run it to the one-wire connection on the new alternator (that one-wire port is at about 12 o'clock on a Mustang 3G). If you do not have a stator wire connected to this port, the alt won't work too well.
 
hey hissin do you think a 3g wuold be enough to handle pullies and say a 1000w audio system? if so how many amp 130? 140? etcor should i just go ahead and get a 6g

Honestly, I'm not much of a stereo guy (I like big sound but it costs big bucks). In the systems I've seen (I enjoy looking because I like clean, well-done wiring), they all run 160+ amp alts and caps. Recently I've seen some gripes that people have not had good luck with 200 amp alts, so it might be worth some research to find out failure rates with those.

Otherwise, all the big stereo folks are much better equipped to answer that than I am.

EDIT: I should add that I run a couple of subs and amps (in the 1K RMS range, no caps) with a 160 amp alt and E-fan. It does alright.

Good luck.
 
bobbyd
hey hissin do you think a 3g wuold be enough to handle pullies and say a 1000w audio system? if so how many amp 130? 140? etcor should i just go ahead and get a 6g

i think it would be plenty. i used to run 2 digital alpine amps 500W RMS each (1 for 4x12" JL subs and 1 for infinity interiors all around), with a capacitor, off my stock alt. it was def. not ideal, and i did get dimmed headlights on bass hits and occasional dead batteries, but it got by. i've since ditched the system, ran the stock alt for a while after, but still got dead batteries upon occasion, and low voltage on the guage. i got tired of this, and finally went 3g. huge difference! it puts out WAY more than stock, so i think you'd be fine.
 
coo thanks guys. yea thats the problem i have with the stock alternator that it kills my battery and that i get dimmed lights. even though i have a capacitor on there another problem that i have is that since my door handles are shaved i have to open them with the remote but somethings the battery is dead that i have to go through the hatch. i will get me a 3g then hehe i will look for one locally and get started on that :) system would cosist of the following.
1000watt amp to 2 10s. 250w amp for the rear speakers and a crossover and also a capacitor.
 
I think a stock 130amp 3G would be fine for a 1000 watt stereo system. I had about a 775 watt system in my '95 Crown Vic with a stock 130 amp alt and it worked fine. The amps I was running weren't especially efficient and I wasn't using a cap. I only got very very mild headlight dimming on bass hits at max volume.
 
I think a stock 130amp 3G would be fine for a 1000 watt stereo system. I had about a 775 watt system in my '95 Crown Vic with a stock 130 amp alt and it worked fine. The amps I was running weren't especially efficient and I wasn't using a cap. I only got very very mild headlight dimming on bass hits at max volume.

coo thanks for the info i guess that made up my mind 3g it is :D