The 3G is an OEM application.
You absolutely need circuit protection on the charge cable. When things are copacetic, you never know the fuse is there. Should an issue arise, you will be so glad you fused that thing.
You got it.
Your new regulator will have a terminal to loop to your lone stator connection (on the alt body), and it will have an eyelet to connect the sense (A) wire to the charge stud. That leaves the wire you connect to the grn/red wire (I).
The way FFI has you do their retrofit harnesses, no fuse is used on the sense wire that I recall (the same is true for PA-P's harness as I recall. I recently gave away a spare one and the instructions or I'd double-check).
However, Jrichker did bring-up a good point. I had always thought the fuse/fusible link on the sense-wire was for in case the sense-wire itself shorted out (from a chafe, etc) since this wire obviously is connected to the battery.
With the short loop made with the retrofit, the chances of such a short are almost nill. I didn't realize the circuit protection was for the regulator itself, and in such a case, it would seem wise to fuse that wire.
Maybe Jrichker has some more wisdom regarding how much of a risk there is with the regulator shorting out.
would there be on a fuse on the back of the powermaster alternator, because the charge cable that it comes with doesn't have one, or is it something i could go pick up, Post has me thinking, I recently melted the charge wire to the fuel line right below my pressure gauge, I cut it and reconnected and was going to run the charge wire through some wire loom to the battery
You definitely need an inline fuse or fusible link on the 4ga alternator charge wire going to the starter solenoid. Check the first page of this thread. jrichker has a good parts list there.
This is almost the same thing as a 3g correct? will i still need the new wiring?
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/iwwida.pvx?;item?item_no=PA-16196B1 1&comp=LRS
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/iwwida.pvx?;item?item_no=PA-16196B1 1&comp=LRS
If you like fire, excitement and cursing, you can use the stock wiring.
Seriously, how can you expect to push up to twice the power through the soda straw wiring and not have problems? You need a fire hose to deliver fire hose size power to the electrical system. See my post on first page of this tech note for a parts list and wiring instructions.
Many of the ubiquitious instructions have folks reuse those stock wires. My feeling is that it's either a lack of knowledge about the issues the original wiring had or it's to allow a wider array of alternator outputs to be covered by 4 AWG cable. Otherwise, 2 AWG or numerically smaller cable would be requisite (4 AWG and the stock wires can carry almost any alternator-rating on paper, but aren't so effective in reality).
I don't know if this is in this write up or not, but if you get one from a junkyard car, it's a lot cleaner and easier to tap and thread the top ear of the alternator and match it up with a bolt for mounting purposes (instead of running a long bolt and nut). This makes installation much easier.
So whats up with this yellow sensing wire that should be attached with the 4 gauge wire to the alt stud? I did my conversion a few months ago and still havent worked out all the bugs.
Do you need to attach that yellow wire to the stud? Also where is the yellow wire? Is it a stock wire that is somewhere in the original wiring harness??
Do you need to attach that yellow wire to the stud? Also where is the yellow wire? Is it a stock wire that is somewhere in the original wiring harness??
Another thing i'd like to see is if someone could write up a how-to for the 4 eye cars with the external regulator....those cars REALLY need alt upgrades but the wiring is different and more complicated. I had to have my electrician buddy wire mine up and i didn't really pay attention enough to be able to pass it on to others.
The black/orange wires also joint the yellow/white wire that is the fused power feed for the regulator.
Disconnect them and the voltage regulator has no power to make it work.
Note the yellow/white wire has a fuse link of its own in the drawing below.
Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds
See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring Mustang FAQ - Engine Information Everyone should bookmark this site.
Ignition switch wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif
Fuel, alternator, A/C and ignition wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif
Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 88-91 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif
Vacuum diagram 89-93 Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg
HVAC vacuum diagram
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/Mustang_AC_heat_vacuum_controls.gif
TFI module differences & pinout
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/TFI_5.0_comparison.gif
Fuse box layout
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/MustangFuseBox.gif