3speed to t5 on a 68 Mustang

[MustangMando]

I need some help, i am swapping my 3speed for a t5.
What are the parts that i'm going to need , besides the t5?
Can I use the old yoke, and clutch?
I'm looking to go with the old linckage or cable clutch .
Does the pedal get softer with cable clutch instead of the old linckage?


Thanks for any help

 

[2+2GT]

I need some help, i am swapping my 3speed for a t5.

Dead easy. Takes a few hours.

What are the parts that i'm going to need , besides the t5?

Bellhousing plate, trans crossmember, shift lever, shift knob. Oh- A backup light switch wiring harness, if you don't feel like making one yourself.

Can I use the old yoke, and clutch?

Yes.

I'm looking to go with the old linkage or cable clutch .

You alreaady have the stock linkage, which works perfectly with the T5, as long as it hasn't been trashed. And of course it's already on the car, and easy to repair if ever necessary.

Does the pedal get softer with cable clutch instead of the old linckage?

That depends on the clutch you use, not the cable.

The stock linkage works well, but for a nice upgrade, add the Drake roller bearing kit to the clutch pedal bracket. First time I used it was on a 428 CobraJet. With the bearings and proper adjustment, a child could have pressed the clutch.

 

[MustangMando]

Thanks 2+2gt, what bell housing do i use. The t5 came with a foxbody bellhousing. Do i have to cut the driveshaft? Do have to cut the floor?
What clutch do you recommend for softer feel?

Thanks again

 

[2+2GT]

what bell housing do i use. The t5 came with a foxbody bellhousing.

you can use the bell that's on the car, without even removing it. You can install an adapter plate on that bell. For even less, you can get a fulcrum adapter to move your current release lever to the Fox bell.

Do i have to cut the driveshaft?

Probably not. 90% of the time it's a tight fit, but goes in. Remember, the yoke actually slides out of the trans a bit when you put the rear wheels on the ground.

Do have to cut the floor?

No.*

What clutch do you recommend for softer feel?

The stock clutch was made for little old ladies who didn't buy the optional automatic transmission. If your pedal is hard, you either have a mis-adjusted linkage, something is bent or worn out, or someone has put an aftermarket clutch in it.

You need to go over the linkage to make sure it's not the problem. I'd hate to see you drop $200 on a clutch when all you needed was a few bucks worth of bushings.

Some prefer the non-stock diaphragm clutch. These work well, sometimes too well, sticking to the floor. Then you have to run without the assist spring, to make it stiff enough to work, putting you back where you were.

*

 

[horseballz]

As 2+2GT said the stock linkage will work well, but needs to be gone through from the pedal to the fork. Bushings on Z-Bar, lube, etc. The usual main culprit of hard to push pedal is at the pedal support under the dash. First the plastic bushings wear/crumble and then the shaft wears into the pot metal bushings and as the wear gets more extreme the steel frame wears into the shaft. A roller bearing kit for your pedals is by far one of the best upgrades you can do for your clutch linkage. While the Scott Drake kit is a little easier to install (if you pedal shaft isn't damaged/worn), I personally prefer the Mustang Steve kit. The Scott Drake kit uses the pedal shaft as the inner bearing race, so if the shaft is worn at all it will need to be replaced. The Mustang Steve kit uses a complete bearing with an inner race and will be OK with all but the most severely worn shafts, he will even do the upgrade for a reasonable price if you ship your pedals to him. To check pedal bushing wear, put left foot on the clutch pedal and right foot on the brake pedal, then lightly press the clutch, then the brake and back and forth. If the pedal or pedals chuck/move back and forth/side to side something is worn, the more that it chucks/moves the more severe the wear.
Just My $.02,
Gene

 

[v8only]

by the time I put in my t5, king cobra clutch, rollerized pedal bearings and clutch cable, my clutch was literally so light I could depress it with 2 fingers. IF you go with cable setup, be sure it's routed properly and not too tight, or it'll increase the pedal effort a lot...if you want the lightest clutch on the market (but will still hold 400 hp+) the centerforce dual friction clutch is as light as a honda clutch

 

[2+2GT]

Yeah, here's what that CobraJet pedal support looked like.

It very nearly required both feet to push the pedal. I used the Drake kit that includes a new pedal shaft, better than buying it separately. After the upgrade, it was surprisingly easy to operate the clutch. Other than checking the adjustment of the lower rod, no changes to the clutch or linkage were made.

 

[dennis112]

I too used the Mustang Steve kit with great success. Here is the article that I wrote detailing the installation:

Ball Bearing Clutch Pedal Support - Ford Muscle Forums : Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum

 

[MustangMando]

Most websites say to change out yoke for a shorter one, because it will damage the transmission. Do I cut the old yoke or use it as-is?

Thanks,
Mando

 

[2+2GT]

Easy to check. When you remove the yoke from the trans, stick it into the T5 and see if it goes all the way in. I have never seen one that didn't fit, leading me to conclude that many of these "experts" are trying to sell you a $100 yoke.

 

[68stang351]

I went from a 6 cyl with a 3 speed to my 351w and a T5.

I used a Ron Morris cable kit
Fox body Mustang bellhousing, clutch kit, fork
Flywheel - I had to buy one the right balance for my windsor, but it is a 157 tooth for a 10.5 inch fox body Mustang clutch.
California Pony Cars crossmember.

Your old yoke will work too.

 

[MustangMando]

Do i need an adapter plate for my 3speed bell?
What kind of bellhousing plate do i need?

 

[2+2GT]

Do i need an adapter plate for my 3speed bell?
What kind of bellhousing plate do i need?

If you use your current bellhousing, you'll need an aluminum adapter plate. This allows you to keep the engine plate, etc. you already have. If your clutch is OK, you don't even have to remove the bell, or disturb the clutch linkage. You'll also, of course, be able to keep the release lever and rubber boot. The fucrum adapter for the Fox bell is much less costly, but there is no rubber boot for the large hole in the Fox bell. If you use the Fox bell, you'll need the matching Fox engine plate. I don't know if your current starter is correct for the Fox bell, so if you need a starter, the more expensive adapter plate is looking better.

 

[1bbcd5]

Thanks for this post guys I was going through the same thing