4.6 strokers?

nitrous408 said:

chp make a steel 5.1 for 2400

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you sure about that price? I looked into the CHP stroker shortblock and it was @ 3800 dollars. I think you'd be better off useing your stock block/crank for the basis for a 5.0 big bore. Your block is just as strong as a iron block and 80-85lbs lighter. Your crank is already forged so you'd save a few dollars and reuse that with the big bore kit.

Unless you have done some damage to your stock engine and thats why your looking for a new replacement.

TweekedGT said:

A 4V is a different ball game. No machine shop or engine builder I have talked to will sleeve a 2V motor. 4V for sure they will. The best thing you can do is square off the motor. 3.75 stroke, 3.75 bore. With my 2V stock block no machine shop would do anything more than .030 over. Now that I have mine in it really hauls ass compared to a regular 4.6. If your going with an exotic block by all means, bore away. But as it sits, a 2V mod motor cannot be big bored, that's what i was saying. Not that you shouldn't do a big bore. Go with a Sean Hyland 370 Cubic inch block for $4000US if you want. If I had the cash, that's what I would have done.

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I understand that and that is what the topic is about. I haven't been talking 2V you have. I am talking 4V's. So again for a 3rd time, how will the Big Bore on a 4v weaken the block and why is it not goot?

Also if you are recommended SHM engines or components, you really didn't do alot of research on this.

blackfang said:

I understand that and that is what the topic is about. I haven't been talking 2V you have. I am talking 4V's. So again for a 3rd time, how will the Big Bore on a 4v weaken the block and why is it not goot?

Also if you are recommended SHM engines or components, you really didn't do alot of research on this.

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i though that if we added more stroke to the motor then that would make it more unstable do to teh piston being pulled down more and partially leaving the cylinder or something like that. i read it here on another thread. But as far as adding bore i dont see the problem if done within specs now if it is sleeved then you can go bigger with the bore.

Yup. There are a few strokers I would trust(VT, MPH, Boss330 Racing but I dont think he builds them) but a Big Bore is the way to go.

Here is Naz's before and after gains of just going to a 304 Big bore kit.
RPM GAIN HP GAIN TQ
2000 12.069 31.85840708
2100 13.1418 32.81710914
2200 14.2146 33.92330383
2300 15.0192 34.21828909
2400 16.092 35.17699115
2500 16.8966 35.69321534
2600 16.8966 34.14454277
2700 17.2989 33.62831858
2800 19.1763 36.0619469
2900 21.456 38.86430678
3000 23.6016 41.2979351
3100 25.479 43.14159292
3200 26.6859 43.73156342
3300 27.2223 43.36283186
3400 28.0269 43.28908555
3500 28.4292 42.77286136
3600 29.6361 43.21533923
3700 31.2453 44.1740413
3800 31.9158 44.02654867
3900 33.3909 45.05899705
4000 34.3296 45.13274336
4100 34.4637 44.10029499
4200 35.0001 43.73156342
4300 36.6093 44.54277286
4400 38.0844 45.50147493
4500 37.6821 44.02654867
4600 37.9503 43.28908555
4700 37.6821 42.03539823
4800 37.4139 40.92920354
4900 39.5595 42.40412979
5000 43.5825 45.79646018
5100 48.276 49.77876106
5200 49.7511 50.22123894
5300 50.4216 49.92625369
5400 52.299 50.81120944
5500 53.64 51.32743363
5600 54.3105 50.95870206
5700 55.7856 51.47492625
5800 58.1994 52.72861357
5900 59.6745 53.17109145 Peak Gains
6000 58.1994 50.95870206
6100 57.3948 49.4100295
6200 55.5174 47.12389381
6300 54.8469 45.64896755
6400 54.8469 44.98525074
6500 53.2377 42.99410029
6600 53.64 42.62536873
6700 53.7741 42.10914454
6800 53.1036 41.00294985
6900 52.0308 39.60176991
7000 51.3603 38.56932153
7100 51.3603 37.97935103
7200 50.8239 37.02064897
7300 454.7331 327.1386431 Notice:450+RWHP from 73-7600RPMs on BB!!
7400 453.9285 322.1238938
7500 452.8557 317.1091445
7600 451.7829 312.1681416

Other Details:
AVE HP Gain thru RPM Band: 39.2835
AVE TQ Gain thru RPM Band: 43.8918
Gain @ Last Peak: 50.82HP/43.73TQ
Gain @ New Peak: 51.36HP/45.50TQ
Dyno Correction Factor: 1.003

Mod List:
304CI Big Bore by MP, SLP LTs/Mid Pipe & MF CB, 4.30s w/Solid Axle, FR500 Intake, Fully Ported FR500 Heads, FR500 Cams & Valvetrain, 150 Shot of NX Juice, NOS Nitrous Controller, NX GEN 2, Build Diff, Fidenza AF, SPEC Stage 3+ w/Light Weight PP, JLT CAI, SCT BA2400 MAF, Dual Pumps, 39LBs, BAP

nitrous408 said:

here it is the pro street ver. is 2599.00 steel crank its in 5.0 mag sept 2004 page 80

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Sept 2004

its now june 2006 in magazine time....i'm gonna go out on a limb and say prices have gone up some

DropTopPony said:

Sept 2004

its now june 2006 in magazine time....i'm gonna go out on a limb and say prices have gone up some

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Really!! I've got a May 1985 edition Hot Rod Mag that says I can buy a 671 blower for $600

Some food for thought, how many knew that the 2V explorer block was aluminum? If you didn't, now you do. Some people should do some research before they post that the 2V block cannot have a Big-Bore done easily. You can buy a brand new 2V aluminum block from Ford Racing( M-6010-A46 ). The 4.6L iron block can also be bored to 3.7" but it is a lot more money to do compared an aluminum block.

I don't get why a BB would not benefit a 2V motor either. Using a complete 2V stock setup and just changing to a Big-Bore. The BB was worth 29 RWHP and 43 RWTQ over the stock displaced motor. Using a complete stock setup and just changing to a stroker block, the stock displaced motor made 28 more RWHP and 37 less RWTQ than the stroker. The only thing that changed was the blocks.