5.0 Ranger Questions

Thanks guys I will check out Pulla Part tomorrow as there is always a plethora of explorers in yards around here. So the 303 cams will work with the GT40 setup? Or should I go another route with less lift to stay away from VPC issues? And I would love to just "jerk" the engine out but this is my dd and can't be down for more than 2 days. Yes I know swap are easy but when the wife and 3 kids are always like "daddy, daddy" I can never stay focused. So a 2 hour job turns into 2 days LOL. Also would it be ok to just leave the intake the way it's facing when I put the GT40 intake on and fab up a CAI to the passenger fender well with 3" tubing or would that be too long a section and mess up the MAF meter?

mikestang63 said:

I'd just pull the motor out and swap in JY explorer motor, swap out the valvesprings, accessories, exhaust, cam and distributor. .

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I already have true duals and hedman headers.

One more thing, will my harness and cpu plug and play with the 95-96 Sploder top end?

So if I go with the GT 40 top end from an exploder I still need to go with a non HO type cam right? But if I had a Mustang GT HO computer I could use the HO cam right? And theoretically I could just swap the plugs on the dizzy and injectors to the corresponding cylinders to match with the HO pattern?

Thanks Rich i will keep that in mind. I am going to go mild performance either way on this as the ranger is pretty light and power to weight says it doesn't need 500hp to make you smile. I am going to be more reasonable and shoot for the 300hp range. I think I will have plenty fun there and still be able to tote the lawn mower around and the small boat I have. I am looking at the E cam as it has more lift and less duration. I want to stay below .500 on the lift I think because I do not want any problems with the non ho pistons, as I have researched they prob don't have valve reliefs. I am going to build an engine on the side one day. But not too soon.

Now the big question I have is this. I am going with he GT40 top end from an Explorer so in order to run an E cam or the like can I manually switch the injector harness where they fire at the HO patterns and also do the same with the dizzy? Will this be problematic with me setup?

Thx boosted that helps. My harness and cpu is out of a car (crown vic) so I am going to researched to see if it's sequential or batch. Seems to me if it is sequential you just have to arrange the injectors harness plugs to the correct cylinder per firing order. Sense I have the Non HO engine I could go through and label the injectors now in the non ho configuration then label each port with HO firing order and just swap the plugs where they need to be. The dizzy would be a no brainier. If a GT car puter would just plug into my harness I would go that route because I don't want to run any more harnesses or the like.

Does anyone know of a good roller cam that performs good and sounds good but will not require a higher stall? It seems I can run the E but it's going to pull on stop lights and try to push through from my research.

Guys I appreciate all your help and will still be hanging hear to adjust my Gt40 setups and cams but I found a wealth of knowledge about my setup on Crownvic.net I wont need a new harness as there are several HO puters that will hook right up. Here is what they said.

Though I'd post some of the most common questions I'm asked and a couple tricks I've learned over the years.

HO Conversion, You need:
E7 Heads (Found on 87-93 Mustangs, 89-92 Lincoln Mark 7's and 87-96 E/F series w/302 (351w has larger head bolts)
HO ECM, engine computer (Mark 7 to keep cruise on the 88-91 boxes, 86-88 mustang for the 86-87 box)
19Lb injectors 86-up mustang, 89-92 mark 7, 87-96 E/F series trucks (302/351)... They have an orange top.
HO upper intake 87-93 Mustang, 89-92 Mark 7
HO Throttle body
HO cam 86-93 Mustang, 89-92 Mark 7


The 2 modifcations needed:
The linkage arms on the throttle bodies need to be swapped. It's easy and straightforward. Grind, swap reattach with screw, JB weld, or actually weld it. The EGR spacer will need to be enlarged to 63mm. A couple minutes on a lathe fixes it up. The 93-95 Ford lightning and some Aussie Fords use a similar EGR spacer if you can find it.

Common misconceptions:
1. Wiring. There are NO changes to the wiring for the HO conversion.
2. Wiring . There are NO changes to the wiring!

To help you get the most out of the HO conversion:
Dual Exhaust. 2.25" minimum.
Headers: Mustang shorties work with some modification, most people get the H-pipe too and get a cat back exhaust done.
Trans: Mustang/Mark 7 Governor. Raises the shift points to match the engines power band. Transmission cooler is recommended.
shift kit helps too.
Fuel pressure: sometimes you can get away with the stock pump. Check your fuel pressure and make sure it's good at WOT.


Other tips/Tricks
1. Timing is everything! Make sure your timing is correct. If it's off, it'll kill your power and milage. Bump it to 12-14* for a little extra HP, just pay attention to detonation, if it happens, back the timing off.

I will keep this thread open for the time being.
Others can post replies and ask questions regarding the HO conversion.
I will update this from time to time, so re-read it every once in a while.

Right on thx Rich. I just ran the numbers on the intake and I keep coming up with a Thunderbird not a crown vic like I was told. I can just plug the new ECM from an HO engine in and only swap the spark plug wires that I am pretty sure of now. But if I have a Thunderbird 5.0 block along with the intake I may have the good pistons but sense I have the non HO firing order I am confused. Did the late 80's birds come with non HO engines?

I have also read that all 86-92 TBird, Mustang and Mark VII cars came with forged pistons.

Here yah are Fox, I just got it though and none of my touches are on it though. I do like black wheels but I will put more of a tuner type wheel on it, like a GT500 or the C6 wheels.