5.4l Dohc Swap

Would you do a 5.4 DOHC swap?


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I got my swap on the road and running. It actually runs pretty decent. Needs a tune bad, so I haven't put more than 150 miles on it. Running slightly lean below 2500 and stupid rich above. Like 10-1 rich! Everything in the car works. I'm actually pretty pleased with how it turned out. With the purchase of the car, I probably have $2500 in the whole deal, and will have a 360-370hp car. Next year, cams!!!
 
Sorry for going incommunicado there. I'll provide just a bit of an update:

The car is currently in the garage. I dropped the engine out, k member bottom out style to do a little work. (I highly recommend installing and removing the engine via this method. SOOOO much easier than top in/out!) I have the valve covers off and am installing some intake cams. I have read that 99 and newer Lincoln Continentals have a better duration. I might try and source some 96-98 Cobra cams. I am also spacing the K Member at this time. The driver’s side valve cover rubbed like crazy on my brake booster.

I will also be installing 05+ 5.4 fuel rails commonly found on F150s and Expeditions. These will take some custom fab to get them to work. The rails will feed some Bosch 0280155831 30lb injectors that I sourced off a Volvo. I also have a 355lph e85 certified fuel pump that will be going in the tank. I found that the engine runs much better on corn. I used the DeltaForce Sniper Tuning software to program the change to e85.

I sourced an all aluminum dual core radiator and I hope this will help with pressure that I am seeing on the top side radiator hose. With the stock radiator, the hose blew off during a session at Hallett due to the pressure the 5.4 water pump creates 5k rpm and up.

With regard to the weight bias question during autocross. The 5.4 is only 40lbs heavier than the 4.6.

http://www.sullivanperformance.com/yvs450/tech/tech1.htm

I have gotten more comments about this engine being "heavy iron" and the like. Sitting on the hood causes more suspension flex than putting a 5.4 in between the fenders. The added 40lbs shifts the weight bias by like 1%. Not noticeable in my opinion. The extra torque from the 5.4 really helps coming out of corners and makes it so fun to drive. A buddy of mine with a 14' GT Track Pack Mustang drove it and commented on how much he liked the torque.

I have been running 4.10s and to be honest this is prolly a bit overkill. 1st gear is useless and I start out in 2nd. I will most likely swap these out for a 3.73 set that I have, but I'm not sure yet. I have been using the 3650 Tremec and it seems to be holding up just fine. My eBay clutch however can't really handle the extra torque and will prolly need to be replaced after this season.

I encourage this swap to anyone interested. I really like the feel, sound and reactions I get. You can do this swap so much easier than I did, but I am a stickler for making junk yard parts work.

Feel free to check out my youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCc_muXlGrvhilqJEXY8xGvg
I have a few videos up currently and will be uploading some more soon!
 
Update: I found a set of 99 Cobra Intake Cams and installed them back in March. Seems to have a bit more power. I haven't had the time to install the new fuel pump, injectors or fuel rail. I did have some fab work done on the fuel rail though. I also sourced and installed a Saleen 4.6 3V water pump underdrive pulley. This reduced the amount of pressure produced in the coolant system during higher RPM pulls. Coupled with the aluminum radiator, I haven't had any issues with overheating. Ran well at the last autocross this past weekend 5/22/16. I also sourced a set of GT4 rims with Nitto NT555 rubber. Here are a few picts and a video of the autocross.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sfjyOs9rvV0
 
Could you post some pics of the alternator bracket you fabbed up and what the finished product was.
 
medumdum3 days ago - From YouTube
Found your post on stangnet and was wondering if you were still active. My 02 GT spun a bearing so I wanted to get some extra power since I need to replace the engine anyways. I found a 03 navigator local to me with 120k miles, bad fuel pump and no title for $650 so it's the perfect candidate for a swap. I know you had to fab quite a bit and I was wondering what you wouldn't have had to fab if you had a whole navigator instead of just the engine? I'm assuming I could just use the stock Navi intake manifold and throttle body. Main question was about the computer, would the Navi computer just work or would I still need a standalone? If you're still active let me know, I'd love to have some guidance on the swap!
 

Hey medumdum! I live on YouTube, just not the upload side of things. I'll bump the thread on stangnet and you can ask away! The biggest hurdle is the intake. If you can swing the cost of a Boss 302 intake then the swap is super straight forward as you'll be able to mount the alternator in the stock location. You will have to run a cowl hood to clear the throttle body. You can use the Navi intake if you don't mind driving around without a hood! The 5.0 Coyote intake is what I use and ModularMotorsportsRacing now makes intake runner adapters that simplify the process. A manual linkage throttle body will have to be sourced or an adapter plate for your current TB. You will also have to relocate your alternator and for me this wasn't a problem as I deleted the A/C and put the alternator there with a custom bracket that I hacked together (pictures have been requested and I'll try and get them for you).

Depending on if your car is an auto or a stick, you'll have to get the flywheel and clutch from the 03/04 Cobra. Exhaust manifolds from the 03/04 Cobra are also needed and a good muffler shop to fab the collector pipes. PCM from your car will work as long as you tune it. I used DeltaForce Tuning's Special Forces Gas Ford tuner for this. PCM from the Navi will not work unless you disable PATS. The 5.4 DOHC is best installed from the bottom up as I show in a picture above.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Good Luck!
 
2021 Update and the much requested Alternator Bracket:

Here are a few pictures I was able to take of the setup. I have a mig welder and that made the process easier, but you could get creative I suppose with another method. I used the alternator off of a early 2000s Ford Taurus 3.0. It is a basic alternator and can be found in abundance at any pick n'pull or similar junk yard. Looks like OReily has them for $150. The stock 4.6 alternator is a 105 amp unit, the Taurus is a 110 amp. I can't remember if I needed to splice the pigtail in or if I had to extend the cables.


The bracket is a piece of mild steal, 1/8" thick I believe. I used the A/C block bosses for the two bolts. I used the same steel sandwiched for the uprights. Note that you have to make a clearance cut for the crank signal sensor. I used various spacers on the alternator through bolt to get the belt alignment right.


Here is a picture of the support stay that I used. I once again used the mild steel plate for the bolt ends and welded them to a piece of tube. The upper mounts to the timing cover bolt. I used a stud and nut.


Here is the belt routing that I used. If you are using a standard water pump pulley, your clearance will be better than mine. The belt is shorter if I remember correctly. I used the cut an old belt, route and measure method an then brought back a few belts from the part store until I found the one that fit just right. You will also likely need to swap out one smooth idler pulley for another grooved one. I used the same grooved idler part # on both sides.

It isn't pretty...it is downright backyard mechanic, but it works. I have been running this setup for over 5 race seasons now, with at least one track day per year. I've never thrown a belt, nor have I experienced any charging issues.

P.S. Sorry for the cobwebs and dust. I haven't taken the car out to an event all year. It'll be getting some love during winter rebuild.
 
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