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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
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5-lug conversion question

  • Thread starter Thread starter 89_demon_lx
  • Start date Start date Sep 14, 2006
8

89_demon_lx

New Member
Sep 6, 2006
3
0
1
Sep 14, 2006
#1
  • Sep 14, 2006
  • #1
Does anyone know if this conversion kit would be able to fit 17 or 18 inch saleens? http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/iwwida.pvx?;item?item_no=LRS-4234K%20%20%20%20%20%201&comp=LRS
the price seems good so i was just wondering cause i want to do a conversion. I heard these will not fit certain wheels. Any info will be appreciated.
 
L

liquid_02

New Member
Sep 10, 2006
34
0
0
Sep 14, 2006
#2
  • Sep 14, 2006
  • #2
Don't buy that kit, that's just a rip off. All they're selling you is what you could get at your local parts dealer/junkyard for half the price.

All that is is:
two driver axels out a 83-92 ranger, drums for it too

and

Pair of rotors for a late 80's mark VII

Go to a wrecker, get the axels, then buy new brake parts. And with the money you saved, pick up a set of late 80's lincoln calipers, they're 73mm, replace your stock 60mm ones. Cost me $30 for the calipers (cheap as a mofu) and roughly $125 for everything else involved in the conversion + $30 for wheel spacers & $50 for lugs because I put bullits on it.

Came out nicely for a $125 deal i must say...

not sure if they'll fit saleens or not...
 

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8

89_demon_lx

New Member
Sep 6, 2006
3
0
1
Sep 14, 2006
#3
  • Sep 14, 2006
  • #3
that does look pretty good, thanks for the info!
 

tunedin302

I AM the law!!!
Jul 29, 2004
1,251
2
36
Pennsylvania
Sep 14, 2006
#4
  • Sep 14, 2006
  • #4
To fit saleens you will have to grind down a bit of the rotor - essentially the outer edge where the dust cap fits. This is needed to allow the wheel to sit flat. You will also have to remove or flatten the dust cap in order to run the saleen center cap. Good luck.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,145
17,841
224
Massachusetts
Sep 14, 2006
#5
  • Sep 14, 2006
  • #5
tunedin302 said:
To fit saleens you will have to grind down a bit of the rotor - essentially the outer edge where the dust cap fits. This is needed to allow the wheel to sit flat. You will also have to remove or flatten the dust cap in order to run the saleen center cap. Good luck.
Click to expand...


Personally i would never modify a rotor like that. Might seem safe but if you get someone that has no idea what they are doing going to town with a grinder getting everything cherry hot and brittle, then they are just asking for trouble.
 

tunedin302

I AM the law!!!
Jul 29, 2004
1,251
2
36
Pennsylvania
Sep 14, 2006
#6
  • Sep 14, 2006
  • #6
Mustang5L5 said:
Personally i would never modify a rotor like that. Might seem safe but if you get someone that has no idea what they are doing going to town with a grinder getting everything cherry hot and brittle, then they are just asking for trouble.
Click to expand...

I agree about not wanting to grind to make it fit but it is only a small lip on the hat of the rotor that needs to be modified. This is all it takes:




Easiest ways to make the Saleens fit are either the baer kit or the sn95 spindles or both
 

Attachments

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Shakerhood

20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 28, 2004
3,355
207
114
Ohio
Sep 15, 2006
#7
  • Sep 15, 2006
  • #7
Brakes are a Vital Safety Item, I would recommend NOT grinding on anything like that its just not a good Idea. Do it right the first time!
 

tunedin302

I AM the law!!!
Jul 29, 2004
1,251
2
36
Pennsylvania
Sep 15, 2006
#8
  • Sep 15, 2006
  • #8
Shakerhood said:
Do it right the first time!
Click to expand...

I wish more people had that same approach. Unfortunately most people don't. Money is usually the determining factor if things are done right or not. It is obviously cheaper to get lincoln rotors from the parts store then buy sn95 spindles, sn95 rotors and calipers, etc. so I can understand a persons position in not wanting to spend the cash. The above pic was taken from a thread on corral where they discussed wither grinding the hat or using a spacer on the lincold rotor to make the saleens fit. While I'm not a engineer, and I myslef would never do it, I don't believe that smoothing off the lip on the rotor would really impair the structural integrity of the rotor to the point it is unsafe.
 
D

dec322

Member
Feb 11, 2006
401
2
16
Bham AL
Sep 15, 2006
#9
  • Sep 15, 2006
  • #9
liquid_02 said:
Don't buy that kit, that's just a rip off. All they're selling you is what you could get at your local parts dealer/junkyard for half the price.

All that is is:
two driver axels out a 83-92 ranger, drums for it too

and

Pair of rotors for a late 80's mark VII

Go to a wrecker, get the axels, then buy new brake parts. And with the money you saved, pick up a set of late 80's lincoln calipers, they're 73mm, replace your stock 60mm ones. Cost me $30 for the calipers (cheap as a mofu) and roughly $125 for everything else involved in the conversion + $30 for wheel spacers & $50 for lugs because I put bullits on it.

Came out nicely for a $125 deal i must say...

not sure if they'll fit saleens or not...
Click to expand...


I've always heard negative things about using wheel spacers. How do you feel about it (I guess you're ok b/c you have them )

I wouldn't mind going this route but I'm scared of wheel spacer.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,145
17,841
224
Massachusetts
Sep 15, 2006
#10
  • Sep 15, 2006
  • #10
tunedin302 said:
While I'm not a engineer, and I myslef would never do it,
Click to expand...


I am an engineer...which is why i must say no to grinding at all.

It's not so much the grinding that is a problem. If i were to do this myself the correct way to reshape the snout is to use a mill or a lathe or CNC with liquid cooling capability. Grinding generates way too much heat in one particular location which can cause the metal in that area to become brittle. The snout is what basically keeps the rotor on the car.

The reason why i always try to tell people not to grind is for the newbies out there. The 16 year old kids that buy Mustangs and want to run a nice set of 5-lug rims but don't have the cash to do this right and are not very mechanically inclinded. So they read a thread like this and whip out dad's grinder and go to town on the rotor taking off way too much material and getting the snout cherry hot and making the metal brittle. The very idea that this is entirely possible scares me to the point where I just completely wipe that option off the slate when i add my 2 cents in in 5-lug conversion threads.

Not to say that any mod on a car can be potentially dangerous, but there are just some things that can be avoided completely.
 

Tonys96Cobra

professional deer "mounter"
Oct 28, 2005
19
9
29
Syracuse
Sep 15, 2006
#11
  • Sep 15, 2006
  • #11
WHen I had Lincoln rotors on my car, I didnt have to grind the rotor to get them to fit THey sat nice and flush against the rotor, but forget about center caps, you would have to grind down the spindle close to 1/2" and not run the dust cap to get them to fit. I say wait and do the sn95 spindles/rotors/calipers at the same time. My local JY sells the spindle with the hub and used rotors for $50-$75 per side.
 
L

liquid_02

New Member
Sep 10, 2006
34
0
0
Sep 15, 2006
#12
  • Sep 15, 2006
  • #12
dec322 said:
I've always heard negative things about using wheel spacers. How do you feel about it (I guess you're ok b/c you have them )

I wouldn't mind going this route but I'm scared of wheel spacer.
Click to expand...

Well I would NEVER put a wheel spacer on the drive wheels personally (rear wheels in this case), especially if I had a good set of tires, I'd be scared S***less of snapping the longer studs, but, since I only have them on the front, where no torque is being applied to the wheels, I have no problem with wheel spacers
 

tunedin302

I AM the law!!!
Jul 29, 2004
1,251
2
36
Pennsylvania
Sep 15, 2006
#13
  • Sep 15, 2006
  • #13
Mustang5L5 said:
I am an engineer...which is why i must say no to grinding at all.
Click to expand...

Good thing I never did it.
 
I

iwashmycar

20+ Year Stangneter
Apr 7, 2004
1,236
1
39
Columbus, Ohio
Sep 15, 2006
#14
  • Sep 15, 2006
  • #14
that kit is no rip off at all... ok you can go to the JY and get used stuff that could potentially be bent, and odds are them old brakes will be worn out. or parts store....you'll have to track it all down and it still will not be cheap after you buy new axles and all the bearings and seals and oil ect...


the kit was good (not amazing by any means). just extremely convenient...all the parts NEW, seals, bearings, instructions if you need em, and all the lube (royal purple stuff). All shipped to your door.

its just worth it if you wanna go that route
 

Shakerhood

20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 28, 2004
3,355
207
114
Ohio
Sep 16, 2006
#15
  • Sep 16, 2006
  • #15
Mustang5L5 said:
I am an engineer...which is why i must say no to grinding at all.

It's not so much the grinding that is a problem. If i were to do this myself the correct way to reshape the snout is to use a mill or a lathe or CNC with liquid cooling capability. Grinding generates way too much heat in one particular location which can cause the metal in that area to become brittle. The snout is what basically keeps the rotor on the car.

The reason why i always try to tell people not to grind is for the newbies out there. The 16 year old kids that buy Mustangs and want to run a nice set of 5-lug rims but don't have the cash to do this right and are not very mechanically inclinded. So they read a thread like this and whip out dad's grinder and go to town on the rotor taking off way too much material and getting the snout cherry hot and making the metal brittle. The very idea that this is entirely possible scares me to the point where I just completely wipe that option off the slate when i add my 2 cents in in 5-lug conversion threads.

Not to say that any mod on a car can be potentially dangerous, but there are just some things that can be avoided completely.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I could not have said it better!!!
 
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