5 lug swap...i think i have everything i need...

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Tasandmnm

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Jun 1, 2007

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Jun 26, 2007

#1

• Jun 26, 2007

• #1

anyone care to doublecheck my parts list? here is what i have ordered: cobra 13 inch front brake kit from ppi, cobra 12 inch rear brake kit from ppi, axles and brackets for the rear brakes from north race cars, 95 mustang spindles and hubs from a guy in the classifieds. i know there is something i need to do with the a-arms to add .330 space so that i can bolt something up...i plan on getting a k-member soon (sometime after i do my 5 lug swap) using MM a-arms but i think i have to be using a coil over setup to use the MM a-arms so that is out of the question for now. any recommendations? i was thinking i should probably go ahead and order some CC plates from MM as well instead of waiting until i do the k-member/coil over swap.

 

Chuckman

GTFO you fat, heavy bastard

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Jun 26, 2007

#2

• Jun 26, 2007

• #2

as far as the brake setup goes youll also need a 2-port master cylinder (a 93 cobra unit works well), a 3-2 port conversion, proportioning valve, and a brake line adapter for the passenger side soft line. you dont really need cc plates for the five lug conversion itself, but if the car is lowered at al youll want them.

 

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Tasandmnm

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Jun 26, 2007

#3

• Jun 26, 2007

• #3

thanks for the reply chuck, the car actually is a 93 cobra so i shouldnt need any of those things other than the passenger side thingy which i already ordered from PPI. the a-arm thing was the main thing concerning me, but i 'think' if I order an a-arm for a 94+ car from MM I wll be fine.....

 

tunedin302

I AM the law!!!

Jul 29, 2004

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Jun 26, 2007

#4

• Jun 26, 2007

• #4

94+ a-arm will increase your track width. You can just keep your 93 arm, get some Steeda X2 balljoints and scrap the .330 spacer.

 

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Tasandmnm

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Jun 26, 2007

#5

• Jun 26, 2007

• #5

I plan on using MM arms at some point anyway, will I still need the Steeda balljoints?

 

trbkrb

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Jun 26, 2007

#6

• Jun 26, 2007

• #6

The reason for the spacer is to take up the space on the ball joint stud. The SN95 spindle is thinner at the ball joint mounting point and the Fox ball joint runs out of threads before it is tight. Thus you need the spacer (hardened washers will do) or swap out the ball joints for the SN95 ones that have threads in the right place.

 

Chuckman

GTFO you fat, heavy bastard

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Jun 27, 2007

#7

• Jun 27, 2007

• #7

Tasandmnm said:

I plan on using MM arms at some point anyway, will I still need the Steeda balljoints?

Click to expand...

from what i understand, the 94-95 balljoint will press into a stock a-arm. iirc all the aftermarket arms use the stock style balljoint, but some you can option in the sn-95 one in instead. dunno if MM will do it or not, give em a call and ask.

 

Shakerhood

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Jun 27, 2007

#8

• Jun 27, 2007

• #8

You should still need to gut your stock prop valve and put an Adj one in.

 

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Tasandmnm

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Jun 27, 2007

#9

• Jun 27, 2007

• #9

any suggestions on where to get one?

Shakerhood said:

You should still need to gut your stock prop valve and put an Adj one in.

Click to expand...

 

Shakerhood

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Jun 28, 2007

#10

• Jun 28, 2007

• #10

You can get the Brass Plug and the Adj Prop Valve from Summit.

 

TrophyHead

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Jun 28, 2007

#11

• Jun 28, 2007

• #11

Just a heads up.

My rotors rusted. The only visible spot where you can see them. Under the caliper and above the 5 lug pattern. You might be lucky depending on the rotors you buy. Mine were from Napa. But I painted those spots with hi temp paint.