5th gear grinds

sounds like you need to get into it - but were i you, i would first try some synthetic fluid (if you dont run any yet). it might buy you some time.

the fluid level is alright, right?

good luck.

I need to jack this thread a lil. Mine is a new WC T-5, FMS pp, clutch, cable.. 1st gear grinds when downshifting or putting into 1st from neutral. But....sometimes it works fine like it should. Any ideas? oh and 5th grinds too, 2-4th is fine all the time.

PNY PWR said:

I need to jack this thread a lil. Mine is a new WC T-5, FMS pp, clutch, cable.. 1st gear grinds when downshifting or putting into 1st from neutral. But....sometimes it works fine like it should. Any ideas? oh and 5th grinds too, 2-4th is fine all the time.

Click to expand...

ahh, id be talking to the vendor of the trans. warranty? dont downshift into first.
good luck.

when I bought my car, it grinded going into third fairly often. I drained my transmission and replaced the fluid with synthetic, and it has shifted smooth for the past 40,000 miles.

Tranny was in the car when I bought, don't know who or what rebuilt it. I'll give that synthetic oil a try, thanks.

I would try adjusting the cable, as well, as checking the shift stops if you have a aftermarket shifter. Grinding could be caused by a too loose cable, which prevents the clutch from fully disengaging when shifting. Hopefully this is your problem.

I changed out the fluid w/ mobil1 synthetic. Tranny feels better but it didn't help the problem. At least I know it has the right fluid and amount in it now. It's a new FMS cable and feels like everything is good. Just something in the tranny a little messed up I guess. Not a huge deal, just annoying.

My tranny grinds going into 4th and all the other gears shifted rough...no grinding but they weren't smooth...I put an adjustable clutch cable in it and it made shifting a little smoother but that was it...

5.0 Nostalgia said:

I am going to have to pull the trans out to fix the rear main seal. Because the seal is leaking, I am expecting to see a crappy clutch and flywheel. I am just going to have to get it looked at while it is out.

A couple more questions. I pulled the transmission out of my GT a few years ago but it was an AOD so I have a few questions. I am assuming I should keep the trans in neutral while I am taking it out. If I do that won't the driveshaft move when I try to take the bolts out? Should I jack the car up in gear and loosen those first before I take the shifter out and then begin the other things? Also, how difficult is it to install an adjustable clutch cable and quadrant? I have noticed that the clutch engages very abruptly so I think the cable needs to be adjusted. I would rather just get a new one but won't bother if it is too much of a hassle. I don't like doing things twice cause of laziness.

Click to expand...

ill try to take a stab at some of this. first paragraph of yours - sounds right on. since you had a slushbox and might be a little foggy on sticks?, other things to check with the trans out: pilot bearing, retainer (trans), fork, pivot ball, TOB, etc. i also like teflon rear mains, myself.

DS bolts are about the first thing to do. you are right. i leave it in gear, get under and loosen two. then put in neutral, rotate shaft, put back in gear, losen next two. remember to thread lock them when they go back in. they are 12 point, 12 mm bolts.

ive never paid attention to whether i had the trans in neutral or not. pop it in neutral once the DS is loose, if you have doubts.

i think some have removed the trans with the shifter still in place - im not sure. the plastic trim pops out. then there are 4 8mm (IIRC) boltson the isolator (rubber with metal trim). the front two are a pain to get out - i used a ratcheting box end wrench - worth its weight in gold (for me) if you dont have one, to get it just for that job. the shifter is 4 13mm bolts. i used never seize on them upon reinstall, as they were galled (almost impossible to get out). if you remove the shifter, put silicone, etc on the base when it goes back on. also check the plastic cup on the bottom of the shifter. sometimes they wear out/get sloppy. 3 bucks. if you dont have, and have ever wanted an aftermarket shifter, now is the perfect time.

the stock quadrant and pawl. real PITA. there are lots of threads from people who know more than i (mine was long gone when i got the car). i would guess that the quick engagement is the clutch assembly itself - i dont know how the cable or quadrant (unless it was a speed quadrant [quick release quadrant]) would do that.

that said, it would be a great upgrade. a lot of people like stock (non adjustable) cables best. if goin with an aftermarket quadrant and stock cable, you will need a FWA. if you get an adjustable cable, you can skip the FWA.

BTW, not liking to do things twice is thoroughness, not laziness. the latter would be not doing them at all or leaving old stuff in there.
good luck.

trans

you could put the trans in neutral and have someone hold the brake? When installing the trans put it in gear, so you can turn the output shaft and spline up the clutch! ALSO use a alignment tool to align the clutch. A secert that we use in the trans bus., on mustangs is install the bellhousing an hook up the clutch first. Get the trans started in the clutch, then have someone depress the clutch and the trans will slid into place with easy.

HMMM why wouldn't you open the doors?

Trans does not need to be in neutral, unless you remove the shifter. It is not necessary to remove the shifter and transmission tunnel boot if you just tip the tranny down prior to removal.

5.0 Nostalgia said:

One more question. Where do I put the jackstands? I know for maximum lift, I should put them on the frame rails, but I don't want to open the door if suspension is not supported. Will I need to get into the car once it is up in the air? On the GT I did have to get in the car, but it was a convertible so I left the top down and just jumped in. I could always leave the windows down and Dukes of Hazaard. I just don't want to have to lower the car everytime I need to get in.

Click to expand...

if you are concerned with droop (from having half the car jacked up), you can not latch the door all the way or put all four corners on ramps, etc.

i would not latch the door all the way, and it should be alright. im always raising and lowering the car when i do a job like that, so i dont worry about it.

good luck.