6 or 8 bolt crank?

miller766

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Jun 10, 2006
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My clutch went out last night......:bang: I already ordered a centerforce dual friction clutch set but I decided to replace the flywheel too. I was just wandering if I had a 6 or and 8 bolt crank? Did ford only use certain ones for each year? I was told that only the 01 and up mustangs had a 6 bolt crank but I don't want to order the wrong one and be screwed. I have a 98 GT by the way.
 
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My clutch went out last night......:bang: I already ordered a centerforce dual friction clutch set but I decided to replace the flywheel too. I was just wandering if I had a 6 or and 8 bolt crank? Did ford only use certain ones for each year? I was told that only the 01 and up mustangs had a 6 bolt crank but I don't want to order the wrong one and be screwed. I have a 98 GT by the way.

99-00 gt's have an 8 bolt. .
 
Going by the year alone will not work. Also, upgrading to the 11" clutch is not needed. Here is how to identify which crank pattern you have:

Romeo built engines have 6 bolts and Windsor built engines have 8 bolts. All Cobra engines have 8 bolts. The 8th character in the VIN is (X) for Windsor engine plant or (W) for Romeo engine plant.
 
Going by the year alone will not work. Also, upgrading to the 11" clutch is not needed. Here is how to identify which crank pattern you have:

Romeo built engines have 6 bolts and Windsor built engines have 8 bolts. All Cobra engines have 8 bolts. The 8th character in the VIN is (X) for Windsor engine plant or (W) for Romeo engine plant.

Go be smarter than everyone somewhere else!:Teh-Win:
 
Not only is the 11" clutch not needed, it can cause problems. It can create alignment issues and will in turn be hard on both the pilot bearing and TOB bearing.

And Rickey Bobbey is correct about identifying the number of crank/flywheel bolts.
 
Not only is the 11" clutch not needed, it can cause problems. It can create alignment issues and will in turn be hard on both the pilot bearing and TOB bearing.

And Rickey Bobbey is correct about identifying the number of crank/flywheel bolts.


Oh yeah I have used both on a 2002 6bolt. It worked great. Now I'm using a stock 8 bolt 10.5" flywheel from a 2000 Gt on my forged setup with cobra crank and t3650 from a 2002. I used an aluminum flywheel on the stock 2002 and ran bolt an 11 and 10.5". As long as the clutch and fly wheel match it will work fine.

These have been my set ups

stock t45 with stock 2k 8bolt 2v engine and stock clutch/flywheel
stock tr3650 with stock 2k 8bolt 2v engine and stock clutch/flywheel
stock tr3650 with stock 2002 6bolt 2v engine and 11" stock clutch/flywheel
stock tr3650 with stock 2k 8bolt 2v engine and 10.5' king cobra clutch/aluminum flywheel
stock tr3650 with stock 2k forged 8bolt 2v engine and xtd 10.5" stage 3 clutch/stock 2000 8 bolt flywheel

The tr3650 had 30k on it when I bought it and I have put 40k since never less than 350lbs of torque now over 400. Still works and I have had both 6 and 8 bolt setups both 10.5 and 11" clutches and flywheels on the same transnission. The 11" clutch will hold a litte more.
 
Either way the 10.5" is the way to go. Whether or not you choose to re-surface the stock flywheel (not recommended) or use a new flywheel, the 10.5" clutch has less rotating mass, is easier on the pilot and TOB bearing and will perform better.
 
Either way the 10.5" is the way to go. Whether or not you choose to re-surface the stock flywheel (not recommended) or use a new flywheel, the 10.5" clutch has less rotating mass, is easier on the pilot and TOB bearing and will perform better.

I wonder why my input shaft bearing cam out on my stock 2000 8 bolt setup with the stock 10.5"setup. 11 also offers more friction surface.
 
I wonder why my input shaft bearing cam out on my stock 2000 8 bolt setup with the stock 10.5"setup. 11 also offers more friction surface.

Why did your input shaft bearing come out if you were just doing a clutch/trans swap? The more friction surface is unnecessary unless you are making some serious power from a power adder and is the exact reason that the smaller surface area of the 10.5" makes it better suited for most street/strip applications.
 
Why did your input shaft bearing come out if you were just doing a clutch/trans swap?

The input shaft bearing came out with the stock 2k 10.5" clutch/flywheel setup! I wasn't doing a clutch swap! Read! I took the first tranny out because of a bad input shaft bearing it still worked just noisy. Nothing to do with the clutch

I reused the same stock 10.5" clutch with the tr3650 which came out of an 02 and all of the 02's had a 11" clutch, but the 10.5 worked great. I just installed it no prep.

A stock 11" clutch holds better than a king cobra 10.5. I know this, because after the I put the 2002 engine in it already had a new 11 stocker on it because of the stock motor failing. Used that for almost a year. Then I went to the aluminum flywheel and 10.5 " KC clutch it had no holding power always slipping.

Now I'm running a XTD 6 puck 10.5" clutch and stock 8 bolt 2000 2v flywheel on the same tr3650. The reason being the flywheel was free. It holds well because its a six buck. An 11" would have been even better.

Also I have to recant, after thinking about it. I probably have put more like 70k on this used tr3650, with different 10.5" and 11" clutch and flywheel combos.

I don't care what you say, I know the 11" is better. Thats why ford upgraded to it
 
A stock 11" clutch holds better than a king cobra 10.5. I know this, because after the I put the 2002 engine in it already had a new 11 stocker on it because of the stock motor failing. Used that for almost a year. Then I went to the aluminum flywheel and 10.5 " KC clutch it had no holding power always slipping.

Don’t mean to interject (since it already seems like you’re in a bad mood ;) ) but my guess is that it might have been the aluminum flywheel that was responsible for the bit of slippage you experienced, not necessarily the KC clutch. They may be a lot lighter that the all steel units, but from what I've seen they don’t tend to have the holding power. They give up a little surface area on the friction surface in order to countersink the bolts to mount them to the flywheel. I've also heard of the aluminum flywheel having a tendancy to flex under higher RPM/temperatures in comparison to the steel unit, but I can't confirm or deny this. It seems to just be word of mouth at the track from a lot of the racers in various classes.
 
Yes, I have measured more run-out on the aluminum flywheels than the steel. This can definitely affect how well the disc holds. The King Cobra clutches hold very well, definitely a lot better than a stock clutch. On higher HP cars that generate a significant torque load, they can deflect the aluminum flywheel causing the disc to lose a bit of friction.

Generally speaking aluminum flywheels are great for road racing cars, and steel seem to work better in drag racing.
 
Don’t mean to interject (since it already seems like you’re in a bad mood ;) ) but my guess is that it might have been the aluminum flywheel that was responsible for the bit of slippage you experienced, not necessarily the KC clutch. They may be a lot lighter that the all steel units, but from what I've seen they don’t tend to have the holding power. They give up a little surface area on the friction surface in order to countersink the bolts to mount them to the flywheel. I've also heard of the aluminum flywheel having a tendancy to flex under higher RPM/temperatures in comparison to the steel unit, but I can't confirm or deny this. It seems to just be word of mouth at the track from a lot of the racers in various classes.

I'm not in a bad mood. I just making my point. The kc slipped mostly between first and 2nd gear shifts.