65 mustang front suspension

jeepon44 · Apr 1, 2013

Well just got onto this sight and I am sure someone has asked this question before. It all started when I picked up a 65 mustang coupe for my wife, straight 6 with a 3 speed, (tractor engine) and 4 wheel drum brake system (antiquated). This is by far the worse handling car I have owned and want to upgrade the front suspension and braking system. I have a found a 8 inch rear out of a 75 Comet to put in the rear and want to do a full disc brake and rack for the front. I would like some advice on kits that others have installed, ease of install, all the parts in one package and good tech support, ETC. Are there companies out there to stay away from? I am in northern Canada so we have a limited supply of wreckers so most of that is out of the question. I will be using this vehicle for daily driving in the summer, some cruising through the mountains and trips. I will do a engine swap later so I do not want to be limited when that time comes. Thanks .

hipo_p51 · Apr 1, 2013

rebuild the front end with all new parts and heavier spring and a new steering box. forget about those racks for the front end. Just a simple replacement of the old stuff with new will be 100X better, and cheaper than those rack things.

Iamdiffrnt · Apr 2, 2013

Pretty much the same as hipo_p51 said, new parts (look at Opentracker Racing Products, good quality and support), roller spring perches, Arning/Shelby drop, larger front sway bar (1 inch is probably the least controversial size here), export brace, subframe connectors (may want to check out the tinman subframe connectors), monte carlo bar.

Stick with the box for steering, if you need power, look at the borgeson conversion. The rack setups tend to lose some steering radius, and can each have their own install issues.

Brakes: Look at CSRP, Degins is on here quite a bit helping people out, and his kits have a reputation of being complete and easy to install (I know mine was!). His support is also excellent.

Smitten65 · Apr 2, 2013

With the suggestions made so far, you can easily make that car no longer be "the worst handling car you've ever had". Consider also putting in some torque boxes and adjustable strut rods and maybe even a vario camber kit to eliminater some shims. Make sure you get the preformance alignment, part of your problem now is almost certainly an OEM spec alignment, that won't cut it with radial tires. +1 On Opentracker, excellent. That Comet rear is 2 inches wider than standard for the 65 so you will likley need diffrent wheels and offset from what would be standard on the 65. I'm not sure if the spring perches are in the correct spot for the 65 either. Upgrade to the V8 parts (including spindles) up front. When the time comes, a 302 from an Explorer will drop right in with the 5 speed you'll want. Your budget and intended use will determine how far you take all these suggestions. Do some reserach here and some of the other Mustang sites and you'll find what you need. These old cars aren't for the faint of heart but you can do a lot to make them a lot more modern and fun to drive. You will be limited only by your skill, pocketbook, patience and ability to reserach..

Fstbk · Apr 2, 2013

Ignorance is strong in this thread....but whatever. A rack does not equal a measurable loss in steering, at least not all of them. Some can come really close to the steering stops on the LCA, and you need to ask yourself how often you hammer in the those stops currently?

But throwing Rack n pinion money into a T code coupe may not be a wise investment.

I would avoid cheap kits from mustang suppliers and go to NAPA and get MOOG or Mcqay norris parts for some decent quality parts and leave the cheaper import parts for the next guy. You will not be spending much more money to do this.

The arning drop can help also, and it costs basically nothing.

Buy good shocks, avoid the impulse to get the store brand (From ANY store).

CSRP is the way to get brakes, just remember that you currently have 4 lug parts on the car and you may have small wheels that will need to be changed to run the calipers.

Get a GOOD export brace, not the cheap one.
Get a Monte carlo bar.
I still like roller spring perches over the stock style, those seize up after about an hour and make for a harsh ride. The stock, stiff perch makes the spring work harder to twist thus limiting any real articulation. You can run softer springs with roller perches and get a sporty ride with the jarring parts.

hipo_p51 · Apr 2, 2013

p.s. I have a 65-6 8 inch rear, if you are in socal. you can have it. just please dont buy a rack.

Fstbk · Apr 3, 2013

Hey hipo, what rack do you have?

v8only · Apr 6, 2013

I can't wait to do my rack conversion..people don't get it but there is a reason why you lose turning radius...it's a performance/handing thing...quicker ratio steering means less turning off the wheel while turning corners...nothing bugs me more than how far I have to turn my wheel while driving...guess I'm just used to the quicker ratio boxes of the later stangs..I'll lose turning radius any day

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

Smitten65 · Apr 6, 2013

The original ratios were 20 to 1 manual and 16 to 1 power.
The 16 to 1 was 3 1/2 turns lock to lock. Unless the turning cirle decreases , a yack with a 3 1/2 lock to lock has a tighter turning circle it will be SLOWER turning than a stock ps setup.

v8only · Apr 6, 2013

I like Quicker turning..less lock to lock turns and reduced turning radius means less steering input around corners...turn the wheel less and the car turns more..I don't like going hand over hand while trying to handle aggressively imo

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Iamdiffrnt · Apr 6, 2013

Reduced turning radius means the car physically can't make as sharp of a turn. The steering ratio changes how much a car turns per revolution of the steering wheel. Not really sure how the steering ratio would apply to a rack, because it's a linear action.

j69302 · Apr 7, 2013

Iamdiffrnt said:
Reduced turning radius means the car physically can't make as sharp of a turn. The steering ratio changes how much a car turns per revolution of the steering wheel. Not really sure how the steering ratio would apply to a rack, because it's a linear action.

You are correct.. The stock gearboxes were progressive and not linear where a rack is a constant linear ratio.

Comparing my power TCP rack to the factory power system, the TCP rack is much more responsive off center.. However, parking took a little getting used to as as it required more turns to the wheel for very sharp turns when compared to stock.

There is certainly no increase in radius with the TCP rack. I can make sharper turns with the rack then I could with the stock gear box.

I can see a increase in turning circle with the other companies racks. Just looking at the way they are installed and designed, compared to the TCP rack, you can easily see why. Which is one reason I went with the TCP rack over the much less costing other companies.

Smitten65 · Apr 7, 2013

Exactly, not all racks are created equal. If the radius is reduced, it will be quicker with the same number of lock to lock turns. Combine that with a linear vs. progressive turning response and a rack will be 'quicker' and in some cases quick to the point of being 'twitchy'. Some complain that the Shelby quick steer pitman arm creates a twitchy response also.

hipo_p51 · Apr 7, 2013

Fstbk said:
Hey hipo, what rack do you have?

no rack, sold that car a while ago. it was a total control.

65 mustang front suspension

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