65 Stang Aluminum Radiator

TOM B

20+ Year Stangneter :roc</strong><span class=
Nov 15, 2002
872
1
16
Harrisburg Pa
Lots of you have big aluminum radiators in your 65-66 stang and I seen A few with the right side hoses as stock has. What are they and where did you get them. I now have a aluminum rad and it has the stock mounting and hoses,it is a 2 row with 1 inch cores but not a cross flow. The car still overheats with my blower kicked in so I want to go bigger but keep the hoses on the same side, maybe thats not possable? some photos please.
O yea, I only have a little over 2-1/4 inches for thickness to fit before the core will hit the fan bolts.

If I find a better rad, the one I have now is still like new and will be for sale!
 
TOM B said:
Lots of you have big aluminum radiators in your 65-66 stang and I seen A few with the right side hoses as stock has. What are they and where did you get them. I now have a aluminum rad and it has the stock mounting and hoses,it is a 2 row with 1 inch cores but not a cross flow. The car still overheats with my blower kicked in so I want to go bigger but keep the hoses on the same side, maybe thats not possable? some photos please.
O yea, I only have a little over 2-1/4 inches for thickness to fit before the core will hit the fan bolts.

If I find a better rad, the one I have now is still like new and will be for sale!

Tom, with a blown car you are way under cooled. A 17" radiator will just not cut it. I would consider a larger radiator and cut out the core to accept it. I went the extreme route and just welded in a 67-68 radiator core, used saddle brackets and mounted the 24" wide griffin in there. I'm in Vegas and my car has very steady cooling. Dual flex-a-lite slimline elec fans are drawing the air.

I'm pretty sure there are a few on this board that just cut their 65-66 and used the 20" 67-68 version and have had success. Either way you need way more air and water volume to keep it significantly cooler.
 
im assuming you found my post in the other cooling thread.
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=552476
heres what i found! should work great :)
,http://store.summitracing.com/defau...t=egnsearch.asp
i also noticed that if you go to the griffin site they do sell a 22x19 radiator that has inlet and outlet on passenger side part no. 1-28182-X. i dont know how the crossflow aspect would work, but it is a crossflow radiator. the problem is not many people carry them, but you can buy it from summit racing. its 213.00 dollars. this would be a great improvement for way less. i wish i would have known about it before i bought a 500 dollar radiator,http://store.summitracing.com/defau...t=egnsearch.asp
 
Fluidyne has direct fit, 3-row rads in either configuration. M-Detail in Riverside, CA also carries a rad that seems to work - "National" is the brand, I think. The owner runs one in a blown 65 vert with now probs.
 
ive brought this topic up on must&more, but id be interested in all your input as well...

assuming for case, both setups have a 20x20 core support opening, which would be better off for cooling:

1) running a larger radiator with less fins exposed to direct air.
*ie - 24or26" wide 2 row 1"tube aluminum radiator

vs

2) running a smaller radiator with most or all fins exposed to direct air:
*ie - 20" wide 2 row 1" tube aluminum radiator


I would think one would be better off with greater fluid capacity, even tho there would be 4-6" of unexposed fins. What are everyones thoughts on this?
 
24" 4 core radiator :nice:
570535_79_full.jpg

Dave :canada:
 
i run a 19x22" aluminum radiator. outlet on the upper driver side, inlet on the lower passenger side. I use the STOCK lower radiator hose (can be bought from ANY autoparts store for about $15) and a flex hose from summit on the upper. You just have to bend it the way you want.

I did cut my radiator support a bit to get it to fit. I may fill in some of the spots where I took off a little TOO much metal :) I am in the process of making the brackets.

the radiator cost me $179 shipped.