66 Coupe Inline 6 Oil Pan Gasket

oh, all the times so many of us have done things like this, you would be in stitches and sucking air.

do put the timing cover one before installing the oil pan, it makes things easier.

ok first thing to do is after cleaning the pan rails, both on the pan and the block, closely examine the bolt holes in the oil pan, and make sure they are as flat as possible. a small ball peen hammer will done nicely here, and you dont have to beat the metal to death, but you do need to support it when flattening it out.

i like to glue the pan gasket to the oil pan with some good 3M weather strip glue, we used to call it elephant snot in the old days when i was racing. it works great, just remember to put the pan bolts in the holes to properly locate the gasket while the glue dries. it does make it harder to clean the pan rail the next time though, but usually some mr gasket gasket remover cleans that up nicely, just DONT GET IT ON YOUR SKIN. that stuff will clean the flesh off to the bone if you are not careful.

when the glue has dried, take some rtv and use that to install the rubber seals on the main caps, you dont need a lot though so dont goop it on. once the seals are in place, put a little dab of the rtv in the corners where the oil pan will sit, and then install the pan. install the bolts and lightly tighten them down as evenly as possible. i like to tighten up the corners first since that is where the leaks will usually start, and then run the rest down in an inside out pattern. you can do this one side then the other if you choose, just do it evenly. i think the torque spec on these is like 10-15ft/lbs at most, you dont need a lot, just enough to hold everything in place and prevent leaks. if you tighten the pan down until the gasket just starts to bulge a bit, you are right on the mark.

Ditto on the timing cover first. Much less chance of leaks afterwards!

the hardest part is sealing the rear part of the pan when it is in the car. you should have no leaks though.