66 mustang speedometer cable lock

jst6

Founding Member
Jan 9, 2002
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Tucson, AZ
i have a 66 c-code with a c4 and i am trying to change the speedometer cable. the cable at the speedo has some type of security lock on it. anyone know how to defeat this?

i was thinking of cutting the cable and drilling out the lock on the bench.

any help is appreciated!!!
 
Have had 3 '66s. Never saw a "lock" on any speedo cable. Un-screw from the speedometer housing, unbolt the end from the trans. Remove the gear from trans. end. Pull cable from the speedo end if I remember. Should slide right out.
 
hard to see the hole. it is a loose oval shape and has a key insert like a two bladed handcuff key. tried a cuff key, didn't work. won't accept any of my lockpicks or flat-head screwdriver. It's deep enough to keep anyone from removing the cable from the guage.
 
jst6-albums-speedo-cable-lock-picture1670-cable-lock-side.jpg

Side shot

jst6-albums-speedo-cable-lock-picture1669-cable-lock-front.jpg

Shot of the lock face. this was only visible by shooting the camera backwards. this is the first i had observed the face.
 
If you could post a picture...has to be some aftermarket device to keep the speedo milage from being wound back. Could this car have been some type of rental car at some point? It's not a GT-350H by any remote chance? Course I've never heard of a lock on the H car either but...I think you cold cut the cable to get the inst cluster out, then cut the lock off on the workbench. If it's a factory inst cluster, there has to be a threaded cnnection to the speedo as stated above...under whatever thing is on there....

Picture posted while i was typing...
 
Thats amazing. I have not ever seen anything like that. Will be interesting to see if anyone recognizes it. You can drill the lock cylinder and remove it, if you are trying to save the cable, and don't think you are, you can feed the cable up from the bottom and try to work with it. I'd cut it and replace it.
 
got the cable off. I cut it just behind the gauge and pulled the whole cluster out. I tried drilling the lock with no success other than a scraped knuckle. i was able to fit a pair of pliers down one sied and was able to de-thread the nut. once off i saw the lock was made by the T&A Manuf. Co. of St. Paul, MN. this company no longer exists but this was definitely not a stock component. The old cable's o-ring was nearly nonexistent and the new cable should stop the leak of trans fluid.

glad i could add some mystery around here!