66 Mustang Warning Ticket From DMV..rear quarters rotted

[Bulldog66]

This is kinda silly, heh. If they had that type of inspection where I live, most of these folks would have to either get another vehicle ( which most likely would be in the same condition ) or walk.

I've never heard of anything like that in my 30 years of driving.

I can see if the metal parts were hanging on by a string and were dragging the ground, however, visible rust or *rot* as its called is no more of a hazard than the woman that is putting on her makeup, talking on her cell phone and eating breakfast on the way to work every morning.

/boggle

 

[Platonic Solid]

Actually, this sounds like a perfect job for . . . DUCT TAPE

 

[micjoe]

I went to the DMV in wethersfield, CT, the main location, which i live in wethersfield. I have posted more pics...of the damage

Link:
http://www.mustangv8.com/en2/newbb+viewtopic.topic_id+289+forum+2.htm

 

[Pakrat]

I think those pics of the rot look a little worse then you initiially described to me. We had an old and wise expert here named SD who used to say " a little bond and a little paint can make a Mustang what it ain't". The previous owner of this car honestly seems like he pulled a fast one, I hope you did not pay alot for it as there is much work to be done. It appears to have been made cosmetically appealing with new paint and some chrome, maybe even some interior but the engine bay needs serious detailing and some structural work all around. You can probably get by with some patches as stated but that paint will start to bubble in no time I think.

I understand you are 25 and low on funds but you have to realize that these are 40 year old cars and even a perfectly restored one will always require tinkering as they are constantly plagued by gremlins. Many folks buy them for the cool factor but plain and simple this is a HOBBY and as such if you have to pay someone to do stuff every time you have an issue it will nickle and dime you to death. I am not suggesting you start learning how to do body work as that is a higher skill level but you should start collecting shop manuals for your car (not Chiltons and the like) and learn it inside and out. Folks on these forums will always talk you thru it too, that's why we are here. If you truly only drive it once or twice a year you will need to learn to stabalize your gas and things of that nature. That engine does not look like it has 34,000 miles to me, the odometer has only 5 digits back then not 6 so there could easily be a 1 or even 2 in front of that number that you don't know about unless it is documented as original.

 

[micjoe]

Well the car has not been driven since 1984, and has not registered...was owned by someone in RI. The owner from RI sold it to a private dealer in MASS. I have documentation from when it was sold to the wholesaler showing the miles from the ORG owner as well as some other documentation as the car progressed. All in all i got what I paid for it. Like anything else 40 year old cars would need work.

For all I can tell it has been told it has ORG miles from the previous owner. I belive the car is worth around 11-15,000 as it sits and I did get a deal from what I paid for it not even close to those figures.

Yes like anything else work needs to be done in which i have 20 days to get that fixed. Off to the body shop this weekend hopefully.

The initial assessment of the damage to me (Pic 2) did not seem to bad. When I crawled under the vehicle as you can see it is much more extensive. (Pic 3).

THE DMV inspector never crawled under the vehicle to make the assumpution i need rear quarter fixed. It was based on (pic 1) on a visual observation.

 

[Pakrat]

Well the car has not been driven since 1984, and has not registered...was owned by someone in RI. For all I can tell it has been told it has ORG miles from the previous owner. I belive the car is worth around 11-15,000 as it sits and I did get a deal from what I paid for it not even close to those figures.

Yes like anything else work needs to be done in which i have 20 days to get that fixed. Off to the body shop this weekend hopefully.

I was born and raised in RI, lived all up down the New Englands coast my whole life. Spent 2 years looking at cars in this rust belt before finally getting disgusted and buying a california car.

I am not trying to scare you, simply prepare you for worst case scenario's. Better that and be pleasantly surprised things aren't so bad then have high hopes dashed on the rocks. Previous owners SAY alot of things, fact is another story. Ask yourself, why has it not been driven or registerd since 84'? Most folks don't store away a classic for 22 years just to finally sell it for less than it's market value?

Here is the best example I can give you:
http://www.classicmustang.com/stories/skip novakovich.htm
If you had looked at this car what would you believe it was worth?

Also, I dug up an old thread on here from a simillar situation for you just about a year or so ago.
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=559066&highlight=kar

I may sound like a broken record but I've been around for a while and seen way to many folks get dissapointed. You don't have to believe me and you can hate me if you want but I'm not trying to insult you, just trying to help.

I wish all the best!
Pak.

 

[micjoe]

Pak,
Thanks for the tips. I have seen the Red mustang article. However my vehicle is not in that worse condition underneath. I see no rotting issues other than the driver side quarter panel, which will be fixed as needed.

The owner in RI was an old official member of something in RI and did not drive it. He later sold it.

Would you have any other suggestions for me, as the inspection only stated the rott, would have to be taken care of it. It drives strong and has a solid frame.

 

[Pakrat]

Pak,
Thanks for the tips. I have seen the Red mustang article. However my vehicle is not in that worse condition underneath. I see no rotting issues other than the driver side quarter panel, which will be fixed as needed.

The owner in RI was an old official member of something in RI and did not drive it. He later sold it.

Would you have any other suggestions for me, as the inspection only stated the rott, would have to be taken care of it. It drives strong and has a solid frame.

Then no I really don't except to ask did the car get a full inspection or did it stop after the rot was discovered and the warning issued? The red car did not appear to have visual rot either and the pre inspection form the loan office did not see it either.

 

[micjoe]

The vehicle was their for a VIN inspection..and a full inspection was not completed...we never checked anything..just said get the rear quarter fixed by a licensed dealer/repairer, and that was it. I have posted some more pics of under the front of the vehicle i would imagine i would not have any problems as i cannot see any real issues from underneath.

At no point was a full inspection was mentioned. He did not attempt any inspection and was going to let me go, but noticed the visual rot in the rear.

Website for Pics:
http://www.mustangv8.com/en2/newbb+viewtopic.viewmode+flat+topic_id+289+forum+2.htm

 

[micjoe]

My main goal would to get it in showroom condition in the long run. However i do only plan on driving it maybe twice a year. For what i got the final product i am happy with.
1- Drives fine
2- Owning 66 mustang makes me happy..also have 2003.

Do a little magic and bring it back to life. I was already given hard plates (Early american- antique plates) just got to get the rear quarters done.

 

[1320stang]

I'm sorry, but that car isn't worth 11k-15k as it sits. There are very few I6 coupes that are worth that kind of coin and they are perfect with no rust.

The surface rust seen in other pictures is likely indicative that there is rust in other places as well, I'd suggest going at the bottom of the car with a screwdriver and poking around a bit.

You talk about the car not being registered since '84, it was 18 years old then. I bought my '65 coupe in '87 and it had over 156k on it. My car has been garaged since '87 and I live in Oklahoma, not exactly the rust belt.

The last photo shows what happens when that same area that yours is rusted out in, when your tire tread sperates from the rest of the tire.

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1040536631037328625lILMBM

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1040539681037328625erdYCz

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1040540090037328625gSHYQw

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1040540169037328625GnSihU

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1040539995037328625UcXCnM

 

[micjoe]

Well i mean everyone has their own opinions of what cars are worth....
In my eyes a perfect V6 would run in the realm of 20-23,000.

i have a 66 mustang and i am grateful for it....i share a love for the mustang like everyone here....

 

[Pakrat]

You are correct that a car is worth exactly what someone is willing to pay for it but, this is a hobby based on emotion and desire, that does not mean that what they are willing to pay is what the fair market value is, that is just a fact. Here is some proof to back up what we are saying. Read the descriptions for the values below very carefully under each category.

http://www2.nadaguides.com/default....65&d=74&y=1966&vi=71840&o=13866&z=03833&da=-1

I think it is very important that you understand we are just trying to help you and are concerned with your safety only, no one here is trying to $hit on you or your car. Even driving it once or twice a year does not mean that some idiot isn't going to ram right into your car, check out my homepage if you don't believe me: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/109505

If the car is unstable in the rear and you get hit the gas tank could pop, the little piece of cardboard btween the trunk and the cabin will not stop roaring flames from buring you alive and no one would like to see that you spend your life with 3rd degree burns just for us to prove our point. Yes I am being dramatic but this has happened to many and I am really trying to drive a point home to you.

Larry is right, for piece of mind you should not only jab around underneath the car with a screwdriver or ice pic and while you are at it why don't you go ahead and drop a big bucket of water into the cowl vents in the front of the windshield. If the water runs out behind the front tires your car probably is in good shape, if your floors get wet then you'll know what we mean.

Could you just patch what was warned about and have no further inspection done, get it registered and just be happy? Yeah sure, quite possibly but how long you live and reamin happy is the real question at hand.

 

[geostang351]

Would you have any other suggestions for me, as the inspection only stated the rott, would have to be taken care of it. It drives strong and has a solid frame.

When I went through inspection some 6 years ago, they got me with no shifter indicator (P,R,N,D,2,1) and a non-functioning windshield washer system. Make sure that you have those working and windhield wipers working, back up lights work and obviously all other lights working (driving, signals etc). I have a 68 and neither the front or rear side markers were installed and they didn't mention them (I even had the cut out in the front fender with no light fixture and they didn't say anything). Mine was inspected in Danbury.

Looking at your pictures, the inner wheel house has rust and should be fixed with a patch of some sort and also I noticed the picture of the interior drivers floor. There is signs of rust that have "fallen" onto the carpet from somewhere above; No doubt a sure sign of cowl vent rust . Lift up the carpets in the front where your feet rest and see how the floors look. Until you confirm the cowl vent, don't drive it in the rain unless you want to wash your shoes while driving.

 

[micjoe]

Good points all. However like anything else...when you have something you love...it is like a first born...and this is why we love classic cars.

I thank everyone for taking the time to put in their own 2 cents.

 

[Pakrat]

100% correct and if you had your first born and he looked OK aside from a few brith marks would you just assume he was fine or would you let the doctors give him a full exam?

Anyway, I'm done, you won't hear another peep from me about it, my conscience is clean and I did my duty, the rest is up to you.

Very best of luck and a sincere welcome to the hobby!
Pak.

 

[1320stang]

Denial is not just a river in Egypt. A factory 1966 V6 would be priceless, because they didn't make any. A car is worth what someone is willing to pay for it. Here's a '66 red on red 6cyl car restored in '90 on Ebay for $13.5k, notice it has no bids.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford...52QQihZ017QQcategoryZ6236QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

A fully restored '66 with a 6 cyl, BIN of $8k, no bids.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford...41QQihZ003QQcategoryZ6236QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

A white '66 6 cyl coupe with 54k on it, $5200 with bids, but reserve not met, 2 hours to go.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford...85QQihZ012QQcategoryZ6236QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Here is a trophy winning '65 coupe with a 289 with 65k documented and sold for $10.3k in Conn.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1965...59QQihZ012QQcategoryZ6236QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I'm glad you love your Mustang, but it sounds like you don't know a lot about them and I don't want you getting too discouraged by the further things wrong you're apt to find and by the fact that just because Eleanor clones are selling for $150k, that doesn't make plain jane coupes worth $50k.

 

[bnickel]

When I went through inspection some 6 years ago, they got me with no shifter indicator (P,R,N,D,2,1) and a non-functioning windshield washer system. Make sure that you have those working and windhield wipers working, back up lights work and obviously all other lights working (driving, signals etc). I have a 68 and neither the front or rear side markers were installed and they didn't mention them (I even had the cut out in the front fender with no light fixture and they didn't say anything). Mine was inspected in Danbury.

Looking at your pictures, the inner wheel house has rust and should be fixed with a patch of some sort and also I noticed the picture of the interior drivers floor. There is signs of rust that have "fallen" onto the carpet from somewhere above; No doubt a sure sign of cowl vent rust . Lift up the carpets in the front where your feet rest and see how the floors look. Until you confirm the cowl vent, don't drive it in the rain unless you want to wash your shoes while driving.

admn, those inspectors up there in the union states sure are some picky SOB's. you really have to have working backup lights and windshield washers? and the shifter actaully has to have the detents marked too? man, my best friend in high school had a 70 chevelle that was a v8 swap car, no backup lights, the shifter was a universal mr gasket auto shifter with a rubber dust boot, the winshield washer bottle was one of the first things to wind up up in the trash and we had to use vise grips to roll the windows up and down. no heater either so it had no defroster

 

[micjoe]

100% correct and if you had your first born and he looked OK aside from a few brith marks would you just assume he was fine or would you let the doctors give him a full exam?

Anyway, I'm done, you won't hear another peep from me about it, my conscience is clean and I did my duty, the rest is up to you.

Very best of luck and a sincere welcome to the hobby!
Pak.

Pak..thanks much...i know what you are trying to say...have it overlooked in case i am not seeing anything..I respect your concern.

You are just looking out and thank you.

I will try to fill in all of the progression of the car...i want to eventually drop in a bigger, badder engine...but my trade is computers not cars..

 

[Jester67]

I think those pics of the rot look a little worse then you initiially described to me. We had an old and wise expert here named SD who used to say " a little bond and a little paint can make a Mustang what it ain't". The previous owner of this car honestly seems like he pulled a fast one, I hope you did not pay alot for it as there is much work to be done. It appears to have been made cosmetically appealing with new paint and some chrome, maybe even some interior but the engine bay needs serious detailing and some structural work all around. You can probably get by with some patches as stated but that paint will start to bubble in no time I think.

I understand you are 25 and low on funds but you have to realize that these are 40 year old cars and even a perfectly restored one will always require tinkering as they are constantly plagued by gremlins. Many folks buy them for the cool factor but plain and simple this is a HOBBY and as such if you have to pay someone to do stuff every time you have an issue it will nickle and dime you to death. I am not suggesting you start learning how to do body work as that is a higher skill level but you should start collecting shop manuals for your car (not Chiltons and the like) and learn it inside and out. Folks on these forums will always talk you thru it too, that's why we are here. If you truly only drive it once or twice a year you will need to learn to stabalize your gas and things of that nature. That engine does not look like it has 34,000 miles to me, the odometer has only 5 digits back then not 6 so there could easily be a 1 or even 2 in front of that number that you don't know about unless it is documented as original.

That was my first thought Super Dave quote #10