67 stang with 351w

[woodsnake]

It's hard to recommend parts if you ONLY want to drive it on the street. If you were planning on at least one trip to the track, or a stated speed requirement, it would be easier. I.E., "I'm looking for 100-105 mph in the quarter."
That's a 13 second car, and that is an attainable goal. It requires new gears, and the heads,cam intake (HCI) to breathe well. Stock bottom end, no machine work, no roller cam? These will all have an impact on your build.
If you stick with the three speed auto, you want to go no higher than a 3.50 gear in the rear. Have a locking rear end? You'll want one of those too, but they aren't necessary.

 

[htwheelz67]

more than likely you have the stock pistons unless your 351w is a 4v model, pull a head and if its a dish get a cam that builds cyl pressure, if its a flat top you will have to get a cam to bleed off cyl pressure.

a 61 cc head will give you about 9.1 with the stock dish and about 10.5 with the flat top, I would go ahead and build the engine with a carb first especially a smaller annular booster model as it will be much more like efi, you can always add the efi later just stick with a cam with about 112 LCA it will work with both, I will disagree with Dhearne on using an efi cam with a carb, yes it will run good but on a carbed engine a 108-110 lca will definetly make more power especially low end than say a 114lca cam with a carb 112 lca is a good comprimise, most aftermarket efi's will work with narrow lca cams as they are speed density and programmable, MAF type efi's like wide LCA's and will not work well with narrow LCA cams. If you choose to get a custom cam, custom cams can have narrow LCA's but make high vacuum and work well with MAF efi.

I would match up your bottom end with cam/heads/ex and then add the efi later, what ever you plan on spending, plan on spending more as that is always the case.

 

[D.Hearne]

The trouble with the 351W pistons is there were at least three dished pistons used in these engines.(70-71, 72-mid 70's then the ones used from sometime in the 80's til the end of production with the rectangular dish) Four total counting the 69 flat tops. So saying a dished piston will give you a 9 to 1 ratio with a 61 cc head is misinforming him. As for running EFI cams with a carb, try it before you knock it. I've done it. A carb actually works better with the wider LSA cam. Starts easier, pulls smoothly from idle to 6 grand, basically eliminates the need to use a choke. Used with a good ignition system and a slightly smaller than normally recomended carb, it will run exactly like an EFI motor, with the only excption being it's not self adjusting for drastic altitude changes.

 

[mtaqua]

Consider the TFS high ports, can make more power than you are probably wanting (and have room to grow). If you go to a reputable head porter (I used TEA), they can help you pick all your components (cam, intake, etc) and make the motor work together. Plan on spending more the $700 on your heads. Also, I used prosystems to build my carb for my motor, and he has great customer service. I suggest doing some homework before buying, because you won't be able to get the price you paid back when you go to sale the parts. Know what you want from the motor, start with a head builder and you'll spend the money once and have a better product in the end. Like it has been stated before I well set up combo with a good ignition will run as well as EFI if not better. It just won't adjust for you with large density altitude changes.

 

[S-Car-Go]

Nice car!!

I'm going against popular consensus, but for a daily driver that can cook the tires, stay reliable and get descent mileage; I'd leave the motor alone for now. I would start at the other end and get some gears (~3.75), make sure you had a limited slip rear end, then add a 5 spd (or 4 sp auto), and do the exhaust. Stock gears, peg leg rear and 500hp isn't going to do much more than lower your mileage and won't even sound cool if you have stock exhaust. Plus you are less likely to goof up these projects vs. an H/C/I swap. Not that you would, but you said you had limited mechanical experience.

After that, I'd look at the motor for more.

 

[mtaqua]

I agree with S-Car-Go, if your going to piece it together. Start with the drive train, get it right then do the motor. You might consider just building a completely new motor, might be the best bet. Something I forgot to mention is Alex and mustangsandmore.com sales heads that many have been happy with. They ain't TFS high ports or race heads, but large improvement over stock. He can set you up with a complete package. Probably something closer to what you want budget wise. He has been racing old fords for a long time. Also, by far has the best customer service I have ever seen.

 

[blackstallion12]

I dont want to discredit your build or your ideas AT ALL cause I dont like when people do that to me. Im not trying to deflate you but I do agree with the last few posts.. You could spend 500 to 1000 in tranny work, rearend ratio, and like stated before exhaust if its still stock or single and see huge performance gains. I have experience with rearend swops and it totally changes the characteristics of the vehilce, but in your case you wouldn't want to go any lower than about 3.70s, unless overdrive tranny, on account of mileage and highway speed. But you have a bitchen car, I wish mine looked like that, If it were me I would leave your beautiful motor alone for the most part and maybe start building your dream powerplant... its surprising how inexpensive some stroker kits are from summit racing. I mean you can basically put a whole stroker motor together for the budget you are talking about (4 gs).

 

[RocketMan67]

Wow I wasn't expecting to get this much feedback at all. I really appreciate everyone's reply's and info so far. I'm going to go ahead and try and answer everything in one message so everyone can get a better idea of where im at with the car now and my goals.
The engine is out of what i believe was a 78 ford ltd. It's stock other than a edelbrock intake manifold and carb, hedman headers with flowmaster 40 series true duals. I don't have the tools or mechanical knowledge to just pull a head and figure the compression ratio and piston type. Is there any other way? Documentation or anything? I can understand it being difficult to suggest parts and such without having the proper info on my part. So with that being said, Do yall think a 10 second car is a realistic goal for a daily driver? I'm changing my budget to 5k at the abosolute most. I would like to update my tranny to a 5 speed auto. Any suggestions on a good racing tranny. I have a very heavy right foot so i need something that will hold up with the power from the engine. I will eventually be updating the rear end with a detroit locker and 3.75 gears. I'm going to go ahead and keep a carb on this engine and use a setup like d. hearne suggested.

 

[D.Hearne]

10 Second daily driver ? NO. It'll be fun for a day or two though. Not aware of any 5 speed performance automatics. If it's a late 70's motor with stock pistons in it, then I'd look for 58 cc chamber heads. That'll at least give it a bump in the compression. The EFI style cam will help too with the dynamic compression. What Edelbrock intake is on it ?

 

[mtaqua]

You can build anything you are willing to pay for. I am building a 10 sec street car, but it won't be what is considered "streetable". Large solid roller, spool, drag suspension, no sway bars, etc. I think with a power adder you can make a more streetable car, mine is going to be NA (maybe spray someday). On a car like yours I wouldn't change it, mine was a plain 66 A code coupe. It has been cut up, and had a ton of mods. Your questions look like you are looking at two different routes. One sounds like a really fast street car (going to be more than 5K); I'd start with a new stroker bottom end and build as you can afford it. The other route sounds like a very street friendly quick car; as long as your bottom end is good you should be able to do something for 5K. You won't have the fastest car, but who cares; there is always someone else faster. You'll still have a nice ride that you enjoy driving. Good luck.

 

[woodsnake]

Keep in mind, that with more motor, you will need a better transmission, torque converter, brakes, especially for a "street" car.

Also, plan on spending twice as much as you budget for. It just happens that way.

As mentioned earlier, a new rear gear will give the car a whole new personality, you might start there.

A 78 351W is an OK plat form. Any idea how old the timing gear set is in the motor?

 

[RocketMan67]

Yeah so I really didn't have a clue what a realistic goal was, sorry man. but i believe the intake is just the edelbrock performer. nothing special i know. but were getting there. slowly. but getting there.

 

[RocketMan67]

I honestly have no idea about the timing chain. Could be new? Could be stock?.. On the transmission subject. What kind of tranny would you recommend from the info iv'e given so far? I kind of struck out with that 5 speed perfomance auto.

 

[woodsnake]

OK, with what you've said so far, I'm going to start with this cam kit.

COMP Cams K31-226-3 - COMP Cams Magnum Hydraulic Cam and Lifter Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com

I can't tell what Holley you have on the car, (SHARP looking car BTW!)

But I would stay in the ~650~ range. I prefer Holley carbs my self. I would say get rid of that GM style distributor you have on there, but that's mostly a matter of preference.

I'm going to say around a 2500 stall torque converter, and a 3.50 rear end gear.
I like the comp "K" kits, as they are complete, with valve springs, timing gear set, etc, etc... Get a locking rear end, some decent heads, STUDY UP ON VALVE TRAIN GEOMETRY!!!
The C4 you have will be fine. I'd say have it checked out, and have a shift kit installed, and run a trans fluid cooler as well. An OD transmission is nice if you plan on any 'road trips' of any length. Otherwise, if it's just going to be an around town car, don't worry about it.
It will be a fun little car, and sound/run as good as it looks.

 

[mtaqua]

Forgot about the tranny, astro performance makes an A-5 (super duty T-5), suppose to hold up to approx 600ish ftlbs. G-force makes one too. There are others out there, but it is going to cost you. McLeod just came out with a 5 speed that is supposed to be pretty damn strong, then there is the tremec. I went with the A-5, we'll see if it holds up. Kind of wish I would have got a C-4, but really wanted to have a 3 pedal car.

 

[D.Hearne]

The timing set is the least of your worries. You can replace it with a stock O.E. double roller 5.0 set from O'Reilly's for $25. The Magnum 280H would be a good all around choice, especially paired with a better set of heads. I'd replace the intake with an RPM airgap though. And add headers.

 

[brianj5600]

You can definitely make a 10 sec DD with a turbo. Mine went some 6.90's with a 280 energizer crane cam and 3.08 gears. That was with pump gas and drag radials. It idles around 600-650 in gear and shifts at 5500. It is ALL homebuilt in a two car garage with very basic tools. Here is my build page. 1967 Mustang Coupe 351w Single t-70 Now with S475