I have had (2) '67 mustangs, both had transplanted motors. I added a shroud to each one and then the 18" clutch fan would not work. I got an original 4 blade 17" fan and it won't work with the shroud as well. One mustang had a '72 302 in it, the current one has a '69 351w. Does changing from a 289 to either one of these motors change the angle or height of the front of the motor? What is the size of the fan that is supposed to be used with a stock , 2 row 20" radiator and shroud? Please help me figure this out. Am I doing something wrong? Thx...
67FB/351w why doesn't stock fan fit?
- Thread starter mikec35
- Start date
1320stang
Founding Member
The 351 has taller decks, but I think the timing cover swaps between the two. The engine mounts should be the same height up the block. Not sure why it's not working.
Could you take a picture ? That would definately help us figure it out.
This may be a dumb question but you added the shroud later right ? Are you sure you positioned the shroud properly ?
If all else fails you can always go electric fan but beware the cascading upgrades =)
This may be a dumb question but you added the shroud later right ? Are you sure you positioned the shroud properly ?
If all else fails you can always go electric fan but beware the cascading upgrades =)
dennis112
15 Year Member
1320stang said:
My guess is that the motor mounts used on his swaps were different than the originals or the original fan is smaller, possibly not being a clutch fan.
The deck is taller, but the extra height is found ABOVE the timing cover. Fan should be located in the same location, all other things being equal.
The timing cover and the water pump (at least for a 69' 351w) is the same as the one in the 289. I used them on my 89' block too.
I did not do the 351 swap in my 67fb. I did the 302 swap in my 67 coupe and used the original replacement mounts. Same height problem with the fan and shroud. If the previous owner of my FB did the swap and used different motor mounts, wouldn't it cause problems with the transmission and driveshaft angle? It looks like the engine would have to be about 3/4 inch higher or the radiator/shroud 3/4" lower for it fit. I have ordered a 7 blade, 15" fan to get me by, but I would really like to know what to do to get the original 7 blade clutch fan to work.
Its on right side up..I just looked in my Mustangs Unlimited catalog. They list a short style and a tall style motor mount. My guess it the guy that installed the 351w in my car used the short style. That would lower the motor and make the fan hit the bottom of the shroud.. I think!
Interesting. I've never heard of short/tall motor mounts before. An easier said then done solution is to buy 2 new motor mounts from you local shop and install them. They are only like 10 bux each at my local parts shop. As for a nice alternative, TCP makes a bitchen poly mount setup and they are a LOT easier to use then the stock mounts. They are also 200 bux a set.... a bit pricey but its something you would want in there anyways. I'd try the cheapie mounts and if they work then great, if not return them. Or maybe you need new mounts anyways ? In any event its a lot of labor but its worth a shot.
Ok, so right after I post that I realized there is a MUCH easier way to tell you if thats the problem. I've got a 67 coupe siting in front of my house with a 5.0 in it. The shaft of the water pump is in the same spot on 5.0/302/289/351 (I think 260's ?) motors. Why don't I measure the hieght of the center of my water pump shaft and you measure yours and we can compair lenghts. Uh... no pun intended. That would tell you if the motor was out of position. Make sure you take the fan off because the motor sits at an angle and the front of the fan will be higher then the end of the shaft on the motor.
Nothing against TCP's products, I own some, but their prices are pretty crazy if you ask me. Regarding the mounts...stock ones are VERY weak, many folks put a bolt through them to prevent separation, if you have a high preformance engine i strongly suggest you do something about them to prevent damaging other components WHEN they break (not IF). Short of the $200 TCP solids I recomend these:Rusty67 said:
From Prothane. They cost half as much and are as strong as a solid and absorb 'some' vibration with the poly centers. Only thing that makes them less than a pure bolt-on is that you have to remove the small upward curving 'tab' from the frame mounts.
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1320stang
Founding Member
Edbert said:
You know what ? TCP isn't owned by the original owner anymore. They sold out to some guy and believe me the guy who bought them doesn't run it like the original owner. They don't warrenty their stuff like they use to. Their prices havn't got any better either.
That all being said, their motor mounts are a solid product any way you slice it and definately worth the cash.
1320stang
Founding Member
I installed mine in about 30 minutes per side, took 5 minutes to cut off that tab. Could have done it in a third the time if the headers weren't in the way, I could not get my cutting tool into position without removing the frame mounts.1320stang said:
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