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67FB/351w why doesn't stock fan fit?

  • Thread starter Thread starter mikec35
  • Start date Start date Nov 23, 2005

mikec35

Member
Jul 6, 2004
233
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Nov 23, 2005
#1
  • Nov 23, 2005
  • #1
I have had (2) '67 mustangs, both had transplanted motors. I added a shroud to each one and then the 18" clutch fan would not work. I got an original 4 blade 17" fan and it won't work with the shroud as well. One mustang had a '72 302 in it, the current one has a '69 351w. Does changing from a 289 to either one of these motors change the angle or height of the front of the motor? What is the size of the fan that is supposed to be used with a stock , 2 row 20" radiator and shroud? Please help me figure this out. Am I doing something wrong? Thx...
 

1320stang

Founding Member
Nov 13, 1998
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Nov 23, 2005
#2
  • Nov 23, 2005
  • #2
The 351 has taller decks, but I think the timing cover swaps between the two. The engine mounts should be the same height up the block. Not sure why it's not working.
 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter
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#3
  • Nov 23, 2005
  • #3
Could you take a picture ? That would definately help us figure it out.

This may be a dumb question but you added the shroud later right ? Are you sure you positioned the shroud properly ?

If all else fails you can always go electric fan but beware the cascading upgrades =)
 

dennis112

15 Year Member
May 15, 2005
1,561
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79
Amish Wonderland of Central PA.
Nov 24, 2005
#4
  • Nov 24, 2005
  • #4
1320stang said:
The 351 has taller decks, but I think the timing cover swaps between the two. The engine mounts should be the same height up the block. Not sure why it's not working.
Click to expand...

My guess is that the motor mounts used on his swaps were different than the originals or the original fan is smaller, possibly not being a clutch fan.

The deck is taller, but the extra height is found ABOVE the timing cover. Fan should be located in the same location, all other things being equal.

The timing cover and the water pump (at least for a 69' 351w) is the same as the one in the 289. I used them on my 89' block too.
 
M

mustangdave

My rearend needs a stud and two nuts.
Founding Member
Feb 26, 2002
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Nov 24, 2005
#5
  • Nov 24, 2005
  • #5
17" is the correct size. Wrong shroud? Where is it hitting? The fan should sit about half way in the shroud.
 

mikec35

Member
Jul 6, 2004
233
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NC
Nov 24, 2005
#6
  • Nov 24, 2005
  • #6
I did not do the 351 swap in my 67fb. I did the 302 swap in my 67 coupe and used the original replacement mounts. Same height problem with the fan and shroud. If the previous owner of my FB did the swap and used different motor mounts, wouldn't it cause problems with the transmission and driveshaft angle? It looks like the engine would have to be about 3/4 inch higher or the radiator/shroud 3/4" lower for it fit. I have ordered a 7 blade, 15" fan to get me by, but I would really like to know what to do to get the original 7 blade clutch fan to work.
 

mikec35

Member
Jul 6, 2004
233
2
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NC
Nov 24, 2005
#7
  • Nov 24, 2005
  • #7
The fan hits the bottom of the shoud. It needs to be raised up about 3/4".
 

Max Power

Active Member
Jul 31, 2003
1,774
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St Paul
Nov 26, 2005
#8
  • Nov 26, 2005
  • #8
My fan does this too and I have no idea why. All I can think is that mounts have changed over the years and are shorter. I just modified the shroud to work.
 

mikec35

Member
Jul 6, 2004
233
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NC
Nov 26, 2005
#9
  • Nov 26, 2005
  • #9
Thats not a bad idea, I guess I could cut the bottom of the shroud to make it fit. Seems like it should be centered in the shroud..
 

Rusty67

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#10
  • Nov 27, 2005
  • #10
Stupid question but.... are you sure you have the shroud on with the correct side facing up ? Maybe try flipping it over and see what happens.
 

mikec35

Member
Jul 6, 2004
233
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Nov 27, 2005
#11
  • Nov 27, 2005
  • #11
Its on right side up..I just looked in my Mustangs Unlimited catalog. They list a short style and a tall style motor mount. My guess it the guy that installed the 351w in my car used the short style. That would lower the motor and make the fan hit the bottom of the shroud.. I think!
 

Rusty67

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#12
  • Nov 27, 2005
  • #12
Interesting. I've never heard of short/tall motor mounts before. An easier said then done solution is to buy 2 new motor mounts from you local shop and install them. They are only like 10 bux each at my local parts shop. As for a nice alternative, TCP makes a bitchen poly mount setup and they are a LOT easier to use then the stock mounts. They are also 200 bux a set.... a bit pricey but its something you would want in there anyways. I'd try the cheapie mounts and if they work then great, if not return them. Or maybe you need new mounts anyways ? In any event its a lot of labor but its worth a shot.
 

Rusty67

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#13
  • Nov 27, 2005
  • #13
Ok, so right after I post that I realized there is a MUCH easier way to tell you if thats the problem. I've got a 67 coupe siting in front of my house with a 5.0 in it. The shaft of the water pump is in the same spot on 5.0/302/289/351 (I think 260's ?) motors. Why don't I measure the hieght of the center of my water pump shaft and you measure yours and we can compair lenghts. Uh... no pun intended. That would tell you if the motor was out of position. Make sure you take the fan off because the motor sits at an angle and the front of the fan will be higher then the end of the shaft on the motor.
 

mikec35

Member
Jul 6, 2004
233
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Nov 28, 2005
#14
  • Nov 28, 2005
  • #14
You would have to measure from the top of the frame rail to the center of the pump shaft, if not tire size and car height would affect the results. Maybe place a yardstick across the top of the frame rails and measure up from there?
 

Edbert

Founding Member
Jul 13, 2002
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Nov 28, 2005
#15
  • Nov 28, 2005
  • #15
Rusty67 said:
Interesting. I've never heard of short/tall motor mounts before. An easier said then done solution is to buy 2 new motor mounts from you local shop and install them. They are only like 10 bux each at my local parts shop. As for a nice alternative, TCP makes a bitchen poly mount setup and they are a LOT easier to use then the stock mounts. They are also 200 bux a set.... a bit pricey but its something you would want in there anyways. I'd try the cheapie mounts and if they work then great, if not return them. Or maybe you need new mounts anyways ? In any event its a lot of labor but its worth a shot.
Click to expand...
Nothing against TCP's products, I own some, but their prices are pretty crazy if you ask me. Regarding the mounts...stock ones are VERY weak, many folks put a bolt through them to prevent separation, if you have a high preformance engine i strongly suggest you do something about them to prevent damaging other components WHEN they break (not IF). Short of the $200 TCP solids I recomend these:

From Prothane. They cost half as much and are as strong as a solid and absorb 'some' vibration with the poly centers. Only thing that makes them less than a pure bolt-on is that you have to remove the small upward curving 'tab' from the frame mounts.
 

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1320stang

Founding Member
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Nov 28, 2005
#16
  • Nov 28, 2005
  • #16
Those are nice, do they app. '65-'68?
 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter
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#17
  • Nov 28, 2005
  • #17
Edbert said:
Nothing against TCP's products, I own some, but their prices are pretty crazy if you ask me.
Click to expand...

You know what ? TCP isn't owned by the original owner anymore. They sold out to some guy and believe me the guy who bought them doesn't run it like the original owner. They don't warrenty their stuff like they use to. Their prices havn't got any better either.

That all being said, their motor mounts are a solid product any way you slice it and definately worth the cash.
 

Edbert

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#18
  • Nov 28, 2005
  • #18
Larry, they do, but for a 65 they require the newer (66) frame mounts. The catalog lists them as 65-70.
 

1320stang

Founding Member
Nov 13, 1998
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89
Edmond, Oklahoma
Nov 28, 2005
#19
  • Nov 28, 2005
  • #19
Cool, I traded RealMongo my early mounts for his later mounts, so I should be hooked up.
 

Edbert

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#20
  • Nov 28, 2005
  • #20
1320stang said:
Cool, I traded RealMongo my early mounts for his later mounts, so I should be hooked up.
Click to expand...
I installed mine in about 30 minutes per side, took 5 minutes to cut off that tab. Could have done it in a third the time if the headers weren't in the way, I could not get my cutting tool into position without removing the frame mounts.
 
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