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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
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68 Coupe Roof Replacement

  • Thread starter Thread starter nugget68
  • Start date Start date Apr 29, 2012
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horse sence

15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
12,236
8,089
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Wile Coyote's stunt double
May 11, 2012
#21
  • May 11, 2012
  • #21
if its half way decent thats a deal, i have been fighting this 67 fast back
roof all day the dang thing dont want to let go ,some wise ass at ford
spotwelded the crap out of it ,like every half inch the blaster whiped them
out to were i cant find them,i have been working on just removing the roof
for about 8 hours now. its only going to take about 30 minuets to put the
new one back
 
N

nugget68

Member
Sep 26, 2005
362
3
19
May 11, 2012
#22
  • May 11, 2012
  • #22
yea there was quite a few spot welds on mine too, the worst part was that they got a lot of them so far back on the lip it was hard to use the spot weld cutter and I had to use the cut off wheel on it. I went throught three of those double sided bits...
 

horse sence

15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
12,236
8,089
233
Wile Coyote's stunt double
May 11, 2012
#23
  • May 11, 2012
  • #23
i am on my third right now
 

horse sence

15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
12,236
8,089
233
Wile Coyote's stunt double
May 13, 2012
#24
  • May 13, 2012
  • #24
i got mine done. that was the hardest one i have ever done. if i would not have
made my spott welder work again i would probably still be working on it. went
with the dynacorn tail panel for 67 cougar lights,every thing fit fairly well.
rolled the wheel lips for beter clearance
 
V

v8only

Active Member
Jul 3, 2003
2,378
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49
May 19, 2012
#25
  • May 19, 2012
  • #25
my vinyl top rust extended to all the window frames down the quarter panel seam and into the trunk...the rust is probably a lot more extensive...much easier to scrap your body and start with a new rust free shell...that's what I did and its the best decision I made
Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2
 

horse sence

15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
12,236
8,089
233
Wile Coyote's stunt double
May 19, 2012
#26
  • May 19, 2012
  • #26
it would have to be prety bad to scrap the body,there are so many sheet metal
parts available now. a lot of the time a rotted top to is due to water working its way
between the vynle top and the roof skin and will just rot the outer skin,if you are
lucky. when the top if finaly replaced i would spray primer in every place possible.
a pump up garden weed sprayer works well for getting in tight spots if you put a
flexable hose on it
 
N

nugget68

Member
Sep 26, 2005
362
3
19
Mar 23, 2014
#27
  • Mar 23, 2014
  • #27
well, I got my donor roof skin sitting on my car now, just got to clean up some of the surface rust and prime it so I can get it welded up, I'll get some pics of that up later, but I also finished up taking my cowl off today, and to my surprise, it's a lot more solid than I thought...




 

horse sence

15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
12,236
8,089
233
Wile Coyote's stunt double
Mar 23, 2014
#28
  • Mar 23, 2014
  • #28
Wow it's been awhile ,was wondering if you finished it.
 
N

nugget68

Member
Sep 26, 2005
362
3
19
Mar 23, 2014
#29
  • Mar 23, 2014
  • #29
life seems to get in the way! haha... hopefully get it all welded back up before summer...
 
C

Chris67

New Member
Aug 19, 2016
1
0
1
Oct 28, 2018
#30
  • Oct 28, 2018
  • #30
horseballz said:
nugget,
I have a rust free, Nevada desert roof. Even though the shipping might be pricier, I think it would survive the trip to better with the whole structure, not to mention, I have no desire to cut spot welds.
Let me know,
Gene
Click to expand...


Hi do you still have the rust free roof? My 67 is so bad haha
 
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