I'd pull it apart, and if the pistons are still usable, find a std bore factory 289-302 block and bore it .030 re-assemble with new rings, bearings.
I wouldnt waste the b302 block. you could sell the b302 block to fund this entire project, or save it for a rainy day.
if you feel a stock block wouldnt be strong enough, then maybe sacrafice the b302 block.
just my opinion
I wouldnt waste the b302 block. you could sell the b302 block to fund this entire project, or save it for a rainy day.
if you feel a stock block wouldnt be strong enough, then maybe sacrafice the b302 block.
just my opinion
dont spend $500 on a stock block. pick one up locally for like $50. then just get some 5.0 lifters
How deep are they ? Or are they just scuffs ? I'd say keep it if it wasn't burning oil, and ran good. Unless they are really deep. All of my cylinders had scuff marks. I run a hone thru it again real quick and re-ring it. I did that 2 times after the rebuild. It's not perefect, but it's cheap and it works.
Go for it, use the boss block. Best ford block ever made and the only small block, ford made with 4 bolt main's. My ex-father in law pointed out that they did have an issue with the original piston skirts cracking. and reccomend's you use block filler for extra strenght on the bottom 2 inches of the block.
I've heard that and even though the blocks don't plit, the decks fail.
I say either use the boss block or sell it. There is no point in building up a 5.0 HO motor that will barely hold 450HP and by the sounds of it probably closer to 500.... Anyways the old school boss block would be great to build up but point taken might be more suited for a resto. Ford I think just released or is soon releasing a new boss block which is stronger than the old school one which would make a nice foundation. I just think either use the block because it sounds like your rainy day has come or sell it to recoupe some funds to do it right.
Kevin
Kevin
Good news: Edelbrock is coming out with Clevor intakes sometime in '07. There's a link to an '07 products preview pdf on the ebok home page, which includes a blurb about the Clevor intakes but no pix. The plan is one model for the 8.2" block and one for the 9.5". They'll have the coolant crossover with the Windsor style thermostat housing, so all you have to do is drill the heads in the right places. http://www.darkhorseracing.net/clevor_head_mod.htm http://www.darkhorseracing.net/track_boss_me_2005.htm Should be a lot cheaper -- and easier to find -- than the CHI's, Parker Funnelwebs, and Track Bosses.
Heck, see if it is still available I will give you 400.00 and pay for the shipping and crating. Make sure it has 4 bolt main caps and screw in freeze plugs.
That was a lack of ribbing is in the piston, not a block issue. Clevelands are the ones that need block filler; like a 427FE, you're doing well to get an .030" overbore. After that a ballooned cylinder is the big "what if."
I'd feel bad using up a Boss 302 block to patch up a wounded 347. It's possible the block would clean up with an .040" overbore. If not, 302s, both flat and roller, are usually easy to find no matter where you look and cheap to boot. Like most Ford blocks, the earlier ones are usually stronger. I'd rather have the new $1700 Boss 302 block anyway.