Progress Thread '69 302 C.i. Fuel Pump Test

[geneford]

I have a 1966 Mustang 2 Dr. Coup, 200 c.i. straight 6, C4 trans and original factory air.

But I have a question about the 1969 Mustang 302 c.i. in my 1961 Galaxie. I'm trying to test the factory fuel pump. I disconnected the inlet hose from the fuel line and put it in a container of gas and placed the hose from the outlet in a catch can. I cranked the engine and nothing comes out of the hose. I installed a Holly pump, did the same and got the same results. I tried this several times. Before I installed both pumps, I put white grease on the pump arm and when I removed the pumps, I had a good sized contact patch.

What am I doing wrong?

Thanks, Gene

 

[tos]

Are you using a new short hose for your inlet hose or the hose that normally connects to the gas tank and running the length of the car? Make sure your supply hose isn't clogged if it is an old line (blow thru it to confirm) if its a new supply line make sure the container of fuel you are using is above the pump. The pumps don't have a lot of suction so they don't prime well if the fuel supply is below the pump. This is why those pumps are mounted low on the engine and the gas tank is generally slightly higher than the pump. Those pumps cant suck uphill very well. Also as far as the tank goes there is a slight amount of pressure just from the weight of the fuel and position of the tank that helps prime the pump (if there are no clogs in the line or filters).

 

[geneford]

Thanks for the info. The hose is new so no blockage. BUT, the can of gas is sitting on the floor so I can see that as a problem. As noted, I also have a Holley pump. I would guess it is stronger than the stock pump. I will raise the gas container but thought it might help to prime the pump with some gas. Bought a turkey baster today and will try tomorrow. What are your thoughts to these steps?

 

[tos]

Yes, priming would help for sure. In classic cars they are sort of self priming because of the position of the tank compared to the pump (mechanical pump). Electric pumps will work a little better as far as suction goes.

 

[geneford]

Thank you very much. I have posted these questions on other Ford Forums with no Luck.

How about another one. On my 1966 Mustang, the drivers door won't stay shut. I have to pull/push and hold it until I can lock it or depress the lock button. What should I do?

 

[tos]

A couple possibilities come to mind.
1. First would be gummed up door latching mechanism. You can roll the window all the way down and saturate the mechanism and door handle (exterior handle) with wd 40 or similar. Manually try to latch the latching mechanism with door open with a screwdriver and see if it locks into place if not you can look from the top side window opening and watch the operation while operating the door handle to see if the arms on the latch move properly. You could also remove the door panel for better view.


2. Misadjusted mechanism - Is the door hard to close, binding, move up or down when it hits the pillar post?

3. Bent rod inside the door from the handles (inside handle or outside handle) to the latching mechanism. - Pull door panel off and check the rods and straighten them if bent.

 

[geneford]

I think with all that I can fix it if I get the time to do that. We are selling our house and I am really swamped but will let you know what happens. Adding the pix's will really help. Thank you very much.

 

[tos]

Somehow I double posted some pics. Anyway yes please let us know what you find. A lot of times people don't follow up after they fix their problems and we don't get to see if our advice helped or they found another fix.
Good luck