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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
  • Classic Mustang Specific Tech

69 Carburetor and Intake manifold.

  • Thread starter Thread starter stinger86
  • Start date Start date Nov 16, 2010
S

stinger86

New Member
Nov 16, 2010
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Nov 16, 2010
#1
  • Nov 16, 2010
  • #1
Hey guys,

Im not a car expert by any means. I bought my 69 3 weeks ago for $3500 and the only real reason was that it was running. SInce i don't know much about cars i'd figured a car that runs is a better project for now until i get to know it down to science. My engine is a 302 coupe. MY questions are

I want a 4 barreled carburetor. Im pretty sure Elderbrock is a great start. What should i look for? How high the CFM? Electric choke? etc.....

The intake manifold. Since i want a 4 barreled carburetor what type and model should be good? Thanx for all the help!!

Also, I don't really want mega drag performance, i want daily driving with noticeable power. Thanx again!!
 
2

2+2GT

10 Year Member
Apr 25, 2009
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Southeastern Pennsylvania
Nov 16, 2010
#2
  • Nov 16, 2010
  • #2
An Edelbrock 500 cfm on a Performer (less expensive) or Performer RPM (if you plan future engine upgrades) manifold. You can even get a pre-bent steel fuel line for this from Glazier/Nolan.

To maximize power you should get the distributor recurved to performance specs. It's probably out of whack anyway.
 
S

stinger86

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Nov 16, 2010
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#3
  • Nov 16, 2010
  • #3
Getting the distributor recurved. That just means amping the current one up or is it rebuilding the current one. I'm thinking of just getting a new one. All i know is the connectors are pretty old and replacing them will help a little. Would a normal shop be able to recurve or is it simple enough for me. Thanx!
 
D

D.Hearne

New Member
Sep 29, 2000
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south louisiana
Nov 17, 2010
#4
  • Nov 17, 2010
  • #4
stinger86 said:
Getting the distributor recurved. That just means amping the current one up or is it rebuilding the current one. I'm thinking of just getting a new one. All i know is the connectors are pretty old and replacing them will help a little. Would a normal shop be able to recurve or is it simple enough for me. Thanx!
Click to expand...

Go with a Performer RPM intake. Carb ? Ain't gonna say, not being a fan of their carbs.(Holley 570 Street Avenger) As for the distributor, first thing to do with it is replace the points with an electronic module, like a Pertronix unit. That alone will solve 99% of the problems you think you'll have with a carb. As for a recurving of the stock distributor, I've never felt the need to have that done, just advance the base timing to the 12-16* BTDC range works for me. The stock setting (6*BTDC) is just plain retarded, litterally.
 
2

2+2GT

10 Year Member
Apr 25, 2009
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Nov 17, 2010
#5
  • Nov 17, 2010
  • #5
stinger86 said:
Getting the distributor recurved. That just means amping the current one up or is it rebuilding the current one. I'm thinking of just getting a new one. All i know is the connectors are pretty old and replacing them will help a little. Would a normal shop be able to recurve or is it simple enough for me. Thanx!
Click to expand...

You'd have to remove the distributor and take it to a shop that had a distributor timing machine.

I have done many distributors, and I have never seen a distributor that was within factory limits. Never. Reman are usually worse than used ones, because they are put together from odd bits and pieces. Getting your distributor recurved is by far the best choice. If the wires are shot new OEM style wiring is cheap. If your distributor is way off, this will possibly give you more power than a 4V carb. Of course if you also get a 4V carb, you'll hardly know it's the same engine.

I became a believer early-on, when I did a 70 351C 4V distributor. Car was a dog. Guy did the whole tune-up. Dog. Got a "correct" carb, professionally built. Dog. Had 3.90 gears installed. Faster dog. I reset his distributor to factory spec curves, and he can lay down a double-streak of rubber whenever he stomps the gas. No other changes.

Everybody yaks about "total advance", but it is only a tiny part of distributor timing. It's really complex. I once did a 67 GT350 distributor that had the "total advance" thing nailed. Except the springs selected for the job produced the "correct total advance" at about 800 rpm. Car ran like crap. I recurved it to factory spec, car ran like a champ. No other changes.

Here's a sample of the complexity of distributor timing. The first is the relatively simple C5OF-E from that 67 GT350. The second is the C9ZF-E BOSS 302.



 
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stinger86

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#6
  • Nov 17, 2010
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If I get the Holley 570 street avenger, what performer RPM manifold goes well with it? I'm looking around all over. Since its a 570 what's the RPM range? 6500 for the intake? Or is that usual?

Thanx 2+2GT for the distributer information. I will probably just go buy a new one and recurve it to factory specs. I think thats what i got out of your post. I don't have a Boss 302, just a 302. Thanx for the help!
 
2

2+2GT

10 Year Member
Apr 25, 2009
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Nov 17, 2010
#7
  • Nov 17, 2010
  • #7
stinger86 said:
If I get the Holley 570 street avenger, what performer RPM manifold goes well with it? I'm looking around all over. Since its a 570 what's the RPM range? 6500 for the intake? Or is that usual?

Thanx 2+2GT for the distributer information. I will probably just go buy a new one and recurve it to factory specs. I think thats what i got out of your post. I don't have a Boss 302, just a 302. Thanx for the help!
Click to expand...

The Performer RPM 7121 is a specific manifold.

The BOSS specs are an excellent starting point if you are using a vac/cent advance distributor on an engine with an upgraded cam.

 
J

j69302

Active Member
Jan 31, 2006
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Nov 17, 2010
#8
  • Nov 17, 2010
  • #8
Ill vouch for the Performer RPM over the regular performer. The RPM version will still work great on a stock engine as well and leaves plenty of room for upgrades.

Had both on my car, felt a difference with the Perf RPM. With the regular performer, it stopped pulling above 4000rpm, with the Perf RPM is pulls through 5500 now .


I would also go with the Holley 570 street avenger... I have a regular 600 cfm VAC secondaries and just converted it over to the street avenger style for more tuning capability.
 
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stinger86

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Nov 17, 2010
#9
  • Nov 17, 2010
  • #9
Stupid question inc....Even tho the manifold is eldebrock can the carb be holley? Will i need any type of conversion kit or should it just bolt on....Also is there a site that can do that? See what parts are compatible with others? Thanx
 
S

stinger86

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Nov 17, 2010
#10
  • Nov 17, 2010
  • #10
Also, would getting a higher cfm carb be better? OR is that waht the 302 can take? I mean I dont want to buy one then have to get a more powerful one later.
 
2

2+2GT

10 Year Member
Apr 25, 2009
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Nov 17, 2010
#11
  • Nov 17, 2010
  • #11
stinger86 said:
Stupid question inc....Even tho the manifold is eldebrock can the carb be holley? Will i need any type of conversion kit or should it just bolt on....Also is there a site that can do that? See what parts are compatible with others?

Also, would getting a higher cfm carb be better? OR is that what the 302 can take? I mean I don't want to buy one then have to get a more powerful one later.
Click to expand...

Yes, Autolite, Holley, and Edelbrock/Carter AFB all use the same flange. Small differences in throttle rod, choke connection, and fuel line can easily be resolved.

A 600 cfm carb will be a little 'boggy' on a stock engine, but it'll run. You'll need the 600 if you go with a bigger cam, though.
 
D

D.Hearne

New Member
Sep 29, 2000
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Nov 17, 2010
#12
  • Nov 17, 2010
  • #12
stinger86 said:
Also, would getting a higher cfm carb be better? OR is that waht the 302 can take? I mean I dont want to buy one then have to get a more powerful one later.
Click to expand...

Holleys work just fine on Edelbrock intakes. And when it comes to a street driven car, smaller carbs work better than a bigger one. A carb needs vacuum to function, a bigger carb yeilds a smaller vacuum signal than a smaller carb does. Vacuum is what draws the fuel from the carbs bowls, it's not injected into the intake stream like an EFI system does.
 
C

chubbs1080

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Nov 13, 2010
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Nov 21, 2010
#13
  • Nov 21, 2010
  • #13
I just bought a new Holly street avenger Carb and performer intake for under 300 bucks from autozone.com. Not trying to promote anything just letting you guys know what I found, if it helps
I haven't installed yet but I am going from a stock 2 brl. I think they cost me $260 after the gift cards that come with
 
6

68casanova

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Nov 3, 2011
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Nov 3, 2011
#14
  • Nov 3, 2011
  • #14
I have a similar issue. 67 with a 289-2v approx 125k miles. I put a weiland intake and a holley 4V 600cfm. the car runs like a DOG i was told by the local mustang GURU I needed a spacer between the carb and intake otherwise it wont pull all the fuel in??? after reading a few post im starting to think it may be to much carb or perhaps both? any thoughts
 

horseballz

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Sep 30, 2009
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Nov 4, 2011
#15
  • Nov 4, 2011
  • #15
Holley Street Avenger is a good carb, but for only $19 more you can get a QFT HR-580-VS. Very similar, but has easily changeable air bleeds, idle restrictors and has 4 corner mixture adjustment. Nearly identical design with many upgraded features. Ultimately/infinitely more tunable unit, I LOVE mine!

Carburetors Hot Rod Series

Quick Fuel HR-580-VS - Quick Fuel HR-Series Carburetors - Overview - SummitRacing.com

Just My $.02,
Gene
 
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