7qt Pan For 351w In A 66?

SadbutTrue said:

Need a 7-8qt pan for a 351w in my 66. Current pan is 5 qts, dipstick is on passenger side. Hoping to avoid fitment issues, slightly wary of just buying a fox body pan.

Mounts and such are all stock to my knowledge. I may have used 65 motor mounts to drop the engine a bit... 10 years ago... but honestly not sure heh.

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Look at the Canton 7 quart road race pan for a front sump 351w. Same height as the stock 351w pan with side kickouts and slosh protection. Fits the early Mustang chassis/suspension perfectly without issues. If your dipstick isn't in the timing cover it still has you covered as there is a place for one to go directly into the pan if needed. Be sure to get the required pump pickup and the Canton dipstick if needed. If you don't need the dipstick location the pan comes with a threaded plug.

I use one in my 65' and have always been happy with it:

SadbutTrue said:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ctr-15-680s/overview/make/ford

this look like it?

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That does look like my pan. I'll try to remember to look at the box I have to verify it today.

Standard oil pumps are preferred in almost every situations UNLESS the crank shaft bearing clearances are opened up above normal tolerances for racing. There is a little HP to be gained with the standard and its easier on the distributor gear.

I run my standard volume pump to 7500rpm and it still holds good oil pressure then. I used the better built upgraded Melling pumps: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mel-10832/overview/make/ford

I don't use the included pump drive rod and instead use a good hardened ARP one.

I checked my box and it is this pan:

15-660 - 351W FRONT SUMP STREET T PAN

It holds 7 quarts. I've actually had 2 of them.

I can't find a 15-660S version listed on the Canton website. I had never heard of an "S" version before but from what I read on the Canton website, it typically means that there is no crank scraper. It has nothing to do with capacity.

For that reason I feel that the Summit descriptions are wrong for these oil pans. A basic 15-660 like I pictured is what you probably want as it has a scraper and the pan won't hang too low in the chassis.

You linked the pan that I use. In the notes it says 7 quarts with filter. Perfect.

A scraper is a strip of metal on one side of the pan that prevents oil from being thrown up in to the bottom of the block from the crank rotation. Its not made to touch anything so that is not a problem. You can see it at the top of the Canton pan in this pic:



Nothing wrong with having one. I also use a 4" stroke with no issues.

If you do not have foreign objects in your oil that can be sucked up in to the oil pump then there is no harm in running the hardened shaft. The stock type drive acts somewhat like a fuse in that situation and they can be twisted BUT eventually you will still loose oil pressure. I like the fact that there is less wear on the hexagon part of the shaft that goes into the distributor and the oil pump.

One note though, the ARP shaft is not cut to length and might be too long. It can easily be shortened once you determine the correct length needed for your pump with a cutoff tool. Should have a slight up and down play when the pump is installed.

No sleeve is needed. but be sure to put the typical clip like device on the distributor side of the shaft. It will prevent the shaft from pulling out of the pump when the distributor is removed for service.