8” to 9” swap- Driveshaft and U-Joint questions.

[Pbum5]

Are the U joints different sizes? I hooked mine up and it seemed to work ok when I went from an 8” to 9”. The drive shaft does need to be shortened. Mine is working but it was a tight fit.

How much should I have it chopped?

What size U-joints should I order?

Are they both the same for the front and rear?

If I am not changing the slip Yolk should I keep the original size U-Joint?

I was looking at buying these U-joints

Ford Racing part # FMS-M-4635-A $ 24.88 at summit.

Thanks.

 

[68coupe408]

I went from a 3-spd to c-6, and 8" to 9" at the same time. I used the same driveshaft, had it shortened. The U-joints were the same. I think precision 369 was the u-joint #. $9 a piece. Just get under the car and measure from the back yoke (back side of the clips)to the tailshaft of the tranny. Minus off a inch and half and get the driveshaft cut from ear to ear of that measurement.

 

[Gud T.B. Blown]

when i had my driveshaft shortened i had them install new U-joints at the same time. it was less than $10 an end.

 

[Pbum5]

I went from a 3-spd to c-6, and 8" to 9" at the same time. I used the same driveshaft, had it shortened. The U-joints were the same. I think precision 369 was the u-joint #. $9 a piece. Just get under the car and measure from the back yoke (back side of the clips)to the tailshaft of the tranny. Minus off a inch and half and get the driveshaft cut from ear to ear of that measurement.

'

I see 1310 and 1330 #'s when I look at U-Joints.

My Guess is 1310 is the way to go.

 

[car_kent]

I just had a driveshaft-yoke made last week at a local shop. It goes between an AOD and a 9" rearend. They used 1310 hardware and the measurement was based on fully inserting the yoke and then backing it out 3/4 ".

Kent