i like my eaton, just did some ll's on the highway the other day. first gear went )), then second gear went ((. it paints nice even ll's all day long. no one wheel peels. still getting used to h/c/i so i'm trying not to bounce off the rev limiter.
i like my eaton, just did some ll's on the highway the other day. first gear went )), then second gear went ((. it paints nice even ll's all day long. no one wheel peels. still getting used to h/c/i so i'm trying not to bounce off the rev limiter.
You got all your go fast goodies installed? Go beat those Bro Inlaws of mine for me will you. Oh NM they haven't gotten there MOPARS running yet. hehe.
RYC CUKR when you omitted the shims did the spider gears roll right in or were they still a little tight? When I did my Trac-Lok I used the modded clutch pack set-up and the thinnest shims I had in my kit. The spider gears rolled in with a bit of persuasion from a block of wood and a hammer. When I assembled the diff back in the 8.8 housing I had a little trouble getting the pin back in place. The overall clutch pack thickness had the axle ends protruding further inward. I ended up wedging some small pieces of wood behind the flanges on the outboard end of each axle and I was then able to drive the pin home in the carrier. I changed to a 3.55 R&P at the same time. The rear was relatively quiet in operation, but would clunk loudly turning into parking lots and driveways, wherever there was the slightest curb (step in pavement I guess I should say). One day it let out a pretty good bang and has never clunked since. I thought that perhaps something had broken. I changed the gear oil and the old drain oil looked pretty clean with just the usual amount of metallic tinge to it. I put in some Lucas 75W-90 and 2oz. of additional modifier. The Lucas synthetic states on the bottle that its ideal for limited slip differentials, but I had a little friction modifier on hand so I put in in anyway. I took the car for a spin and did some figure 8's in a parking lot. I didn't notice any noise or clunking. I haven't done any holeshots, but is there another way to check the breakaway torque on the Trac-Lok?
I had my rear end guy put extra clutches in my diff. The car hooks harder and the diff has lasted a lot longer than the previous two "stock" rebuilds. Go fot it!
yep thats what I did and I love the way the rear end feels now. Actually it is very tight. car reacts a little different then it did before. Now when you shift and of course you are spinning it wants to walk car out sideways then shift and car goes the other way quickly shift again and it comes back the other way. Kinda freaked me out the first time it happened. Now I know how it is going to react so I'm ready. I love the modded rear end though works great.
RYC CUKR when you omitted the shims did the spider gears roll right in or were they still a little tight? When I did my Trac-Lok I used the modded clutch pack set-up and the thinnest shims I had in my kit. The spider gears rolled in with a bit of persuasion from a block of wood and a hammer. When I assembled the diff back in the 8.8 housing I had a little trouble getting the pin back in place. The overall clutch pack thickness had the axle ends protruding further inward. I ended up wedging some small pieces of wood behind the flanges on the outboard end of each axle and I was then able to drive the pin home in the carrier. I changed to a 3.55 R&P at the same time. The rear was relatively quiet in operation, but would clunk loudly turning into parking lots and driveways, wherever there was the slightest curb (step in pavement I guess I should say). One day it let out a pretty good bang and has never clunked since. I thought that perhaps something had broken. I changed the gear oil and the old drain oil looked pretty clean with just the usual amount of metallic tinge to it. I put in some Lucas 75W-90 and 2oz. of additional modifier. The Lucas synthetic states on the bottle that its ideal for limited slip differentials, but I had a little friction modifier on hand so I put in in anyway. I took the car for a spin and did some figure 8's in a parking lot. I didn't notice any noise or clunking. I haven't done any holeshots, but is there another way to check the breakaway torque on the Trac-Lok?
Its been awhile but IIRC the spiders were pretty tight going in with no shims. I tried the smallest shim that I could but I couldn't get the spiders in so I had to go with no shims.
When I built mine I had a total of 8 new clutches, 4 for each side, so I didn't have to reuse one of my old ones. So my stack might have been just a touch thicker than yours if you reused one of your old clutches.