Engine 89 GT Code 66 help

May 8, 2005
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So I picked up a 89 GT a couple weeks ago. The original problem on the car was the oil pump had seized and sheared the drive gear off the dizzy. The previous owner had replaced everything in the ignition system, and I fixed the oil pump. After getting everything reinstalled, the car will not start. Timing is rough set (as best as I can without the car running). I can fire it up for about a grand total of 1 second, then it dies, and will not re-fire. The only code I seem to be getting is a 66 (MAF voltage too low. However, when I pulled the connector for the MAF and measure it, I get 12.4VDC between pins A and B, and then 5.75VDC between C&D. Based on the troubleshooting I have seen in other threads, this is usually a low/no voltage problem, but it appears as though I have an over-voltage problem. I'm stumped because most other troubleshooting requires me to have the car running, which it is incapable of doing right now.

What has been replaced:
  • Distributor
  • Ignition Coil
  • Plugs
  • Wires
  • TFI
  • Oil pump
  • Battery Cables
I have also gone in and refurbed the capactiors in the ECU (electronics tech by trade), but that made ZERO change in the status.
 
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So went through the check list. My concerns are as follows:
With MAF connected (pins extended and jumpered), I still get 12+vdc on A/B. C/D I get 0.15VDC tops. Resistance across C/D through the MAF is 84.3Kohms (Seems high compared what I have read).
Timing is about on. She fired briefly, sounded really clean, and strong, but same condition: DEAD almost immediately.

I would love to have a spare ECU to rule it out, but I can't even find one to buy if it is bad, WHICH SUCKS!
 
So went through the check list. My concerns are as follows:
With MAF connected (pins extended and jumpered), I still get 12+vdc on A/B. C/D I get 0.15VDC tops. Resistance across C/D through the MAF is 84.3Kohms (Seems high compared what I have read).
Timing is about on. She fired briefly, sounded really clean, and strong, but same condition: DEAD almost immediately.

I would love to have a spare ECU to rule it out, but I can't even find one to buy if it is bad, WHICH SUCKS!

Disconnect the MAF, the engine will run in Limp Mode with the Check Engine LIght on, but it should start and continue to run.

For the sake of thoroughness, here is the Code 66 test path...

Code 66 or 157 MAF below minimum test voltage.

Revised 15 mar 2018 to clarify how to do resistance checks on the MAF wiring

Insufficient or no voltage from MAF. Dirty MAF element, bad MAF, bad MAF wiring, missing power to MAF. Check for missing +12 volts on this circuit. Check the two links for a wiring diagram to help you find the red wire for computer power relay switched +12 volts. Check for 12 volts between the red and black wires on the MAF heater (usually pins A & B). while the connector is plugged into the MAF. This may require the use of a couple of safety pins to probe the MAF connector from the back side of it.

Computer wiring harness connector, wire side
71316.gif


Computer wiring harness connector, computer side side
88243.gif




Diagrams courtesy of Tmoss and Stang&2Birds

ECC Diagram for 88-90 5.0 Mustangs
88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif


ECC Diagram for 91-93 5.0 Mustangs
91-93_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif


94-95 Diagram for 94-95 5.0 Mustangs[/b]
94-95_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif



How the MAF works

There are three parts in a MAF: the heater, the sensor element and the amplifier. The heater heats the MAF sensor element causing the resistance to increase. The amplifier buffers the MAF output signal and has a resistor that is laser trimmed to provide an output range compatible with the computer's load tables. Changes in RPM causes the airflow to increase or decrease, changing the voltage output.. The increase of air across the MAF sensor element causes it to cool, allowing more voltage to pass and telling the computer to increase the fuel flow. A decrease in airflow causes the MAF sensor element to get warmer, decreasing the voltage and reducing the fuel flow.

The MAF element is secured by 2 screws & has 1 wiring connector. To clean the element, remove it from the MAF housing and spray it down with electronic parts cleaner or non-inflammable brake parts cleaner (same stuff in a bigger can and cheaper too).

89-90 Model cars: Measure the MAF output at pins C & D on the MAF connector (dark blue/orange and tan/light blue) or at pins 50 & 9 on the computer. Be sure to measure the sensor output by measuring across the pins and not between the pins and ground.

91-95 Model cars: Measure the MAF output at pins C & D on the MAF connector light blue/red and tan/light blue) or at pins 50 & 9 on the computer. Be sure to measure the sensor output by measuring across the pins and not between the pins and ground.


At idle = approximately .6 volt
20 MPH = approximately 1.10 volt
40 MPH = approximately 1.70 volt
60 MPH = approximately 2.10 volt

Actually MAF pins C & D float with reference to ground. The signal output of the MAF is a differential amplifier setup. Pins C & D both carry the output signal, but one pin's output is inverted from the other. The difference in signal between C & D is what the computer's input circuit is looking for. The difference in the two outputs helps cancel out electrical noise generated by the ignition system and other components. Since the noise will be of the same polarity, wave shape and magnitude, the differential input of the computer electronically subtracts it from the signal. Then it passes the signal on to an Analog to Digital converter section inside the computer's CPU chip.


Check the resistance of the MAF signal wiring
For the next 2 checks make your measurement with the MAF disconnected from the wiring harness.

Pin D on the MAF wiring harness and pin 50 on the computer (dark blue/orange wire) should be less than 2 ohms. Pin C on the MAF wiring harness and pin 9 on the computer (tan/light blue wire) should be less than 2 ohms.

There should be a minimum of 10K ohms between either pin C or D on the MAF wiring connector and pins A or B.

Reconnect the MAF to the wiring harness and proceed to the next section.

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/

Ignition switch wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

Fuel pump, alternator, ignition & A/C wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

Computer,. actuator & sensor wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Fuse panel layout
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/MustangFuseBox.gif

Vacuum routing
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg
 
MAF replaced. Code 66 Gone, car still wouldn't start. Was farting around with the distributor to see if the rotor was loose from the last time I pulled it, and the rotor was free spinning. Pulled it out, and at some point in time, the drive gear had sheared again. Replaced the distributor (was suspecting a bad PIP anyway), now I at least have wet plugs finally. Gotta reset the timing and let the battery charge. Hopefully I will have her running tomorrow.
 
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While the distributor is out, use a 1/4" socket and a long extension to turn the oil pump driveshaft. It should turn freely with only a slight resistance. If it is difficult to turn, the oil pump may be binding or has seized up.
 
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I just put a new oil pump in it, but trust me, when I found this out I definitely tested it again just to be on the safe side.

Good news: Got the new dizzy in, jumped the car, and BAM, we have a running 1989 Mustang GT. I don't know what's inside, but she's mean. Like...I don't know how much longer the stock seats are going to survive mean. Thank you all for the help. Now to start with the "Wannado" list