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Engine 89 lx 5.0 sporadic missing and dies

  • Thread starter Thread starter JBdirt07
  • Start date Start date Aug 20, 2022
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    drift fox 89 mustang foxbody 5.0 lx 5.0
J

JBdirt07

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Aug 20, 2022
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Aug 20, 2022
#1
  • Aug 20, 2022
  • #1
I have a maf car it has gt40p heads and tfs intake. It has the smog pump delete and I’ve check for vacuum leaks and the iac. TPS is set right and timing is good. Cap, rotor, plugs, and plugs are good. Any ideas would be awesome.
 

Noobz347

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#2
  • Aug 20, 2022
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...and what's up with that front wheel?


What codes do you get?
 
J

JBdirt07

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#3
  • Aug 20, 2022
  • #3
Extended lower control arms, extended tie rods, and steering rack spacers, it’s a drift car. I’ve been dreaming about a notch since I could push a hot wheels around. (I’m 31 now) I haven’t been able to connect a code reader too it for some reason. So I’ve done everything I could think of. I’m waiting on o2 sensors now. I should have them next week.
 

jrichker

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  • Aug 20, 2022
  • #4
JBdirt07 said:
I have a maf car it has gt40p heads and tfs intake. It has the smog pump delete and I’ve check for vacuum leaks and the iac. TPS is set right and timing is good. Cap, rotor, plugs, and plugs are good. Any ideas would be awesome.
Click to expand...

Step 1
Dump codes sticky

Look at the top of the 5.0 Tech forum where the sticky threads are posted. One of them is how to dump the computer codes. Codes may be present even if the CEL (Check Engine Light) isn’t on. You don’t need a code reader or scanner – all you need is a paper clip, or if your lady friend has a hair pin, that will do the job.
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/how-to-pull-codes-from-eec4.889006/

If that does not work, here's Step 2...

Computer will not go into diagnostic mode on 86-90 models 5.0 Mustangs .

Revised 23 May 2020 to include warning about jumpering the dark brown connector with a black/orange wire.(12 volts) to the test connector.

Disconnect the battery positive terminal before making any resistance checks.
The voltage drop in the ground cable will cause incorrect resistance readings.


How it is supposed to work:
The black/white wire (pin 46) is signal ground for the computer. It provides a dedicated ground for the EGR, Baro, ACT, ECT, & TPS sensors as well as the ground to put the computer into self test mode. If this ground is bad, none of the sensors mentioned will work properly. That will severely affect the car's performance. You will have hard starting, low power and drivability problems. Since it is a dedicated ground, it passes through the computer on its way to the computer main power ground that terminates at the battery pigtail ground. It should read less than 1.5 ohms when measured from any signal ground on the engine mounted fuel injector harness with the battery pigtail ground as the other reference point for the ohmmeter probe.

Engine mounted fuel injector wiring harness sensors for a 5.0 mustang


What sometimes happens is that the test connector black/white wire gets jumpered to power which either burns up the wiring or burns the trace off the pc board inside the computer. That trace connects pins 46 to pins 40 & 60.

WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

OR

If an O2 sensor harness from an automatic transmission Mustang is used with an A9L manual shift transmission computer. The 12 volts from the automatic transmission starter circuit will damage the A9L computer.

The STI (Self Test Input) is jumpered to ground to put the computer into test mode. Jumpering it to power can produce unknown results, including damage to the computer. The ohm test simply verifies that there are no breaks in the wiring between the test connector and the computer input.

How to test the wiring:
With the power off, measure the resistance between the computer test ground (black/white wire) on the self test connector and battery ground. You should see less than 1.5 ohms.



If that check fails, remove the passenger side kick panel and disconnect the computer connector. There is a 10 MM bolt that holds it in place. Measure the resistance between the black/white wire and pin 46 on the computer wiring connector: it should be less than 1.5 ohms. More than 1.5 ohms is a wiring problem. If it reads 1.5 ohms or less, then the computer is suspect. On the computer, measure the resistance between pin 46 and pins 40 & 60: it should be less than 1.5 ohms. More than that and the computer’s internal ground has failed, and the computer needs to be repaired or replaced.

While you have the computer connector disconnected from the computer, turn the ignition switch to the Start position and look for 12 volts on pin 46 of the computer wiring harness. If you see 12 volts then you have an automatic transmission O2 sensor harness. That will damage the A9L manual shift transmission computer.

See the pictures below for help finding and fixing the burnt computer trace.




The fix is some careful soldering of a small jumper wire across the burnt section of copper trace.



If the first ground check was good, there are other wires to check. Measure the resistance between the STI computer self test connector (red/white wire) and pin 48 on the computer main connector: it should be less than 1.5 ohms. More than 1.5 ohms is a wiring problem

The following is a view from the computer side of the computer wiring connector: it is for an A9L, A9P computer.




Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds

Check out the diagram and notice all the places the black/white wire goes. Almost every sensor on the engine except the MAF is connected to it.



See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds
(website host) for help on 88-95 wiring http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine

See the graphic for the 10 pin connector circuit layout.
 
Last edited: Aug 20, 2022
J

JBdirt07

Member
Aug 20, 2022
4
1
13
South Dakota
Aug 20, 2022
#5
  • Aug 20, 2022
  • #5
jrichker said:
Step 1
Dump codes sticky

Look at the top of the 5.0 Tech forum where the sticky threads are posted. One of them is how to dump the computer codes. Codes may be present even if the CEL (Check Engine Light) isn’t on. You don’t need a code reader or scanner – all you need is a paper clip, or if your lady friend has a hair pin, that will do the job.
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/how-to-pull-codes-from-eec4.889006/

If that does not work, here's Step 2...

Computer will not go into diagnostic mode on 86-90 models 5.0 Mustangs .

Revised 23 May 2020 to include warning about jumpering the dark brown connector with a black/orange wire.(12 volts) to the test connector.

Disconnect the battery positive terminal before making any resistance checks.
The voltage drop in the ground cable will cause incorrect resistance readings.


How it is supposed to work:
The black/white wire (pin 46) is signal ground for the computer. It provides a dedicated ground for the EGR, Baro, ACT, ECT, & TPS sensors as well as the ground to put the computer into self test mode. If this ground is bad, none of the sensors mentioned will work properly. That will severely affect the car's performance. You will have hard starting, low power and drivability problems. Since it is a dedicated ground, it passes through the computer on its way to the computer main power ground that terminates at the battery pigtail ground. It should read less than 1.5 ohms when measured from any signal ground on the engine mounted fuel injector harness with the battery pigtail ground as the other reference point for the ohmmeter probe.

Engine mounted fuel injector wiring harness sensors for a 5.0 mustang


What sometimes happens is that the test connector black/white wire gets jumpered to power which either burns up the wiring or burns the trace off the pc board inside the computer. That trace connects pins 46 to pins 40 & 60.

WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

OR

If an O2 sensor harness from an automatic transmission Mustang is used with an A9L manual shift transmission computer. The 12 volts from the automatic transmission starter circuit will damage the A9L computer.

The STI (Self Test Input) is jumpered to ground to put the computer into test mode. Jumpering it to power can produce unknown results, including damage to the computer. The ohm test simply verifies that there are no breaks in the wiring between the test connector and the computer input.

How to test the wiring:
With the power off, measure the resistance between the computer test ground (black/white wire) on the self test connector and battery ground. You should see less than 1.5 ohms.



If that check fails, remove the passenger side kick panel and disconnect the computer connector. There is a 10 MM bolt that holds it in place. Measure the resistance between the black/white wire and pin 46 on the computer wiring connector: it should be less than 1.5 ohms. More than 1.5 ohms is a wiring problem. If it reads 1.5 ohms or less, then the computer is suspect. On the computer, measure the resistance between pin 46 and pins 40 & 60: it should be less than 1.5 ohms. More than that and the computer’s internal ground has failed, and the computer needs to be repaired or replaced.

While you have the computer connector disconnected from the computer, turn the ignition switch to the Start position and look for 12 volts on pin 46 of the computer wiring harness. If you see 12 volts then you have an automatic transmission O2 sensor harness. That will damage the A9L manual shift transmission computer.

See the pictures below for help finding and fixing the burnt computer trace.




The fix is some careful soldering of a small jumper wire across the burnt section of copper trace.



If the first ground check was good, there are other wires to check. Measure the resistance between the STI computer self test connector (red/white wire) and pin 48 on the computer main connector: it should be less than 1.5 ohms. More than 1.5 ohms is a wiring problem

The following is a view from the computer side of the computer wiring connector: it is for an A9L, A9P computer.




Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds

Check out the diagram and notice all the places the black/white wire goes. Almost every sensor on the engine except the MAF is connected to it.



See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds
(website host) for help on 88-95 wiring http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine

See the graphic for the 10 pin connector circuit layout.
Click to expand...
Thank you so much I’ve been watching YouTube for days now and haven’t found anything
 

Noobz347

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor
Admin Dude
Jan 4, 1985
43,062
21,226
234
Box behind Walmart
Aug 20, 2022
#6
  • Aug 20, 2022
  • #6
JBdirt07 said:
Thank you so much I’ve been watching YouTube for days now and haven’t found anything
Click to expand...
Then you should really like this:

Amazon product ASIN B000EW0KHWView: https://smile.amazon.com/INNOVA-3145-Ford-Digital-Reader/dp/B000EW0KHW/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3EV8OIMLVL2F1&keywords=obd1+code+reader&qid=1661006864&sprefix=obd1+code+reader%2Caps%2C157&sr=8-2
 
Reactions: jrichker

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
20+ Year Stangneter
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#7
  • Aug 20, 2022
  • #7
Cut out wheel openings, love it.
 
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