89 next steps suggestions

[y_do_i_try]

I have an 89 GT, with a few things done to it...

- 2.5 inch header-back Flowmaster without cats
- Mac shorty headers
- Ford Racing 30 lbs./hr injectors
- BBK Cold Air Intake
- BBK SSI Intake Kit with a BBK adjustable fuel pressure regulator
- 3 row radiator (when the stock one finally went to *****)
- Grannatelli 90mm MAF tuned for cold air and 30 lbs./hr injectors



the exhaust and headers were on the car when I bought it so I dunno if the cats were removed the right way or not. i drove the car for a year or so without doing anything to it and it ran very well. Then, it threw a main bearing so me and my dad tore it down and rebuilt the engine. I was told by a local engine machinist that the pistons, crank and camshaft were all still in perfect condition and that the heads were still in really good shape. We replaced almost everything else and got it put together and running fine before I put the rest of the parts on. We also had the transmission rebuilt. Now I bought the rest of the parts listed above and put them on. Now, as I accelerate, and even during idle, the engine hesitates and won't even perform nearly as well as when I had none of these on. I checked the timing and that was still on. I set the fuel pressure to what i was told, but it still runs like complete hell. I don't wanna keep spending money on performance parts if they aren't going to help it run any better. I basically want the car to eventually have as much power as it can being NA and with the parts I have boughten so far. I have skills with mechanics but not enough knowledge on my car or its computer.

I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions on what I might need to do to get it performing the best it can, or at least running good so I want to drive it again?????

I am a college student with a minimal amount of resources with which to part with...in other words, i have some money but not much.

sorry for the long post but anything helps and thanks everyone

 

[93 LX]

Not sure why you have 30# injectors. If the heads are stock and you are not running any kind of boost then I would think you are very rich but I am referencing this from my cabred capri. So really what do I know but I would think 30# injectors would be better for a boosted situation then a n/a setup. Alos i didnt see anything about a upgraded fuel pump......

 

[Boostedpimp]

I agree 30lb injectors is way too large for that combo.. the stock 19lb injectors are good up to 300hp at 100% duty cycle so i'd say your a bit rich.. did you play with the fuel pressure at all maybe lean it out and see if you recop any power?

Also you didn't mention what throttle body.. I image you have at least a 65mm with that intake which should be all you need any larger is kinda over kill with a stockish motor.

I'd say invest your money into a set of gears for the rear.. that'll be the best bang for the buck in the seat of the pants dyno

 

[Bullitt347]

If the injectors are matched to the MAF, and/or the PCM is programmed for the bigger injectors, then there is nothing wrong with 30 lb/hr injectors on a stock engine, provided your fuel pressure is in check. The PCM will shorten the injector pulse width to achieve the correct air/fuel. After all that is what the 02 sensor does, it tells the PCM if the engine is rich or lean, and makes adjustments accordingly, within a certain set of parameters. My boosted engine runs just fine with 42 lb/hr injectors when at a idle or at cruise and other off boost times, which is 98% of the time, WITHOUT being rich! The only time my engine NEEDS the 42 lb/hr injectors is at WOT. And no one should run a engine with the injectors at 100% duty cycle. You are just asking for problems if you do.

 

[jrichker]

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

See Troublcodes.net Trouble Codes OBD & OBD2 Trouble Codes and Technical info & Tool Store. By BAT Auto Technical

If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.

The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see EQUUS DIGITAL FORD CODE READER (3145) – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.