90 Convertible quarter window won't move

TMF · Sep 11, 2006

I tried searching and only found one reference to this problem. My right rear quarter window went down and now won't go back up. I hear the motor making that happy whirring sound, but no movement.

I took the speaker grill off and can see the motor behind it, but it looks like the whole side panel has to be removed. Yes?

If so, are there any tricks?

I pulled the seat but the carpet looked to be glued to the bottom of the plastic panel. Do I pull that off and re-glue when finished?

And the biggie: Is it just the motor unit I need to replace? I see them on 50Resto for about $80 with no core, is this about right or is there a better source?

Thanks everyone!

John

rd · Sep 11, 2006

If the motor runs when you operate the switch, it usually means that the little plastic rollers or clutches have broken. They can be replaced without replacing the whole motor. Most parts stores sell them as window motor or lift repair kits. Carquest has them.

Don't know exactly how to get a rear quarter window motor out, but it should be similar to the fronts.

That price is about right, I have not found enought price difference between places to matter.

HISSIN50 · Sep 11, 2006

Removing the window motor is cake. Pull the interior 1/4 panel out a little bit (I do this with the seats left as they normally are. It takes some finesse). Then there are 3 bolts that come out (one is buried on the lower side of the motor and is hard to see, but is feelable). Then the motor comes out after you undo the electrical connector and snake the pigtail through the plastic liner (it has an X cut in it to get the wires through).

I need to rebuild a couple motors myself - I'll check out Carquest for those parts that RD mentioned. FWIW, like yours, my motors also run [on the bench] but because the outer race is split, when a load is applied, the race spreads apart rather than the torque being applied to the output gear.

Good luck.

TMF · Sep 11, 2006

Just so I'm clear, the inner quarter panel you mention is the whole inside piece and not just the speaker grill...

I only see two bolts so I suspect the others are hidden under the carpet. Do I have to remove the seat belt retractor section in the panel to find all the bolts to the inner quarter panel?

And the race you speak of, is it part of the motor that is broken or something that bolts/attaches to the window?

Guess I'll take another whack at it tonight in the garage to see what I can disassemble.

John

HISSIN50 · Sep 11, 2006

TMF said:
Just so I'm clear, the inner quarter panel you mention is the whole inside piece and not just the speaker grill...

I only see two bolts so I suspect the others are hidden under the carpet. Do I have to remove the seat belt retractor section in the panel to find all the bolts to the inner quarter panel?

And the race you speak of, is it part of the motor that is broken or something that bolts/attaches to the window?

Guess I'll take another whack at it tonight in the garage to see what I can disassemble.

John

Yep - interior 1/4 panel is the whole thing. Note that it sounds like you have a later fox (I forgot to check your sig). I have an 88 GT vert with no speaker grills back there.

My interior quarter panels are modified a bit but I dont have to hose with the seatbelt at all. But I dont remove the 1/4 panel - I just get it out of my way enough to get a wrench on the window motor bolts.

Yep - the race is found inside the motor. Once you remove the motor, there are 3 or 4 fasteners that come off easy and then you can open the motor up and see the craptastic plastic parts inside.

Maybe RD can help more with the interior strip-down part of things. I recall a couple of hidden screws (like the one on the side of the seat back). I think people have posted pretty specific locations of the fasteners.

Good luck.

TMF · Sep 11, 2006

Ok, that's the plan then. I just need to get the motor out through the speaker grill opening after removing the bolts that hold it in.

I might be able to do that without removing the quarter panel unless someone else here says "Good luck with that, Houdini!"

Then it is just finding the parts to go in the motor that are broken and magically getting it all back in when I'm finished!

Thanks again!

John

HISSIN50 · Sep 11, 2006

Sounds good John. You'll find the lowest motor bolt just under the bulby part of the housing (where the gears reside). So if feeling from the top, stick your fingers in right under the bulby part and you'll feel that 3rd bolt (in case that helps with finding it through the speaker grill hole).

Then the motor needs to go towards the interior an inch or two to disengage the gear on the motor from the regulator.

If you do move/remove the panels, it's the kind of thing where it'll take a little bit the first time and 1/10th the time the next time.

Good luck.

TMF · Sep 11, 2006

Everyone, thank you for the words of encouragement and tips. I was indeed successful and it works again. I'll use the rest of this message to document my procedure as best I can.

1. I learned to stop swearing like a sailor at the motor. All the colorful words did not make it start working again.

2. Once I was over that and got help in this thread, I went at it in earnest. Overall, it took me about 4 hours to R & R the motor and have it working. A lot more colorful words were uttered along the way. Now that I'm done, I'm sure I could do the otherside in 30 minutes or less.

3. Begin by removing the speaker grill. Set this aside with the two screws.

4. Remove the door sill screw closest to the rear of the car. You need this loose so you can move the inside quarter panel.

5. Remove the rear seat, both pieces. Some of the quarter panel screws are hiding behind them... Ask me how I know, I dare you!

6. Locate all the screws that hold the inside quarter panel to the body and remove them. I counted 4 buyt YMMV... One was behind the seat back and one was hidden in the carpet about an inch from the top edge just by the door.

7. Lift the panel in toward the middle of the car. You can't go too far because the seat belt goes through it.

8. Using a T50 torque bit, remove the bolt holding the seat belt retractor so you can tip that in away from the quarter panel. Not too far as it is bolted at the bottom of the bar and you just need to move it few inches.

9. Remove the two bolts that hold the bracket that held the torque head bolt. This is so you can get at the top bolt of the motor. Otherwise you'll be fishing around for a good 45 minutes trying to get it back in later. Again, I know.

10. Now you have complete access to the three bolts that hold the motor in. Remove them and set them aside. Remember where you put them so you don't have to search the entire car for 20 minutes looking for them little pricks. Christ on a stick!

11. Unclip the motor from the harness and feed it through the X in the plastic shield.

12. Remove the motor and take it to the workbench.

13. Remove the 3 8mm screws and the 1 philips head screw from the shiny cover plate.

14. Inside you will have your tall gear drive shaft sticking in a plastic gear. In my case, the three round plugs that act as shock absorbers in the gear cluster had completely broken down into small parts. Take everything apart and wipe all the grease out of all the parts. You can throw away the white gear and the cover plate. SAVE THE SCREWS!

15. Go to NAPA and get yourself an Electric Motor Repair Kit. Mine actually had it in stock too. In the kit you will find a new cover plate, new plastic gear with a short shaft already installed and a packet of grease. The conversation went something like this. "So, how much for the kit?" ask him. He replies, "That comes to 32 dollars and change." I raised my eyebrows and paused for a moment. "Does that come with vaseline" I asked? Without skipping a beat he says, "No, but it does come with a packet of grease!" People, you just can't make this ***** up... Ok so put on the company acct and get it for $25 out the door.

16. Take the short shaft out of the plastic gear and throw it across the garage. It's good stress relief.

17. Take the grease packet and squirt a bunch into the gear around the plugs and the bottom and then insert the tall gear drive from the old assembly.

18. Take the rest of the grease and fill the bottom of the motor assembly where the gear goes. Also put a lot on the worm drive.

19. Insert the plastic gear drive and then re-attach the cover making sure you put the mounting bracket back on the motor in the correct position. You should only be able to put it on one way. Use the three 8mm screws for this and then the philips screw for the remaining hole. Tighten them good.

20. Put the motor back into the car! From here on out it is pretty much the reverse of the disassembly. Just make sure you get the center of the gear drive shaft into the hole inside where it mates to the really big gear. Look into the hole with a flashlight so you can see what you're aiming for. Also, make sure you hook up the power so you can flick the motor a couple times. Chances are it will not be in the correct position to mesh with the big gear and bumping it a little helps to seat it in position. You'll know when this is done because the mounting bracket will snap up to the quarter panel and be ready to put those tricky hiding bolts back in.

21. After the three bolts are tight, TEST IT. You don't want to get it all together and then have to take it apart right away.

22. Reassemble in reverse order and you're done.

Cheers!

john

90 Convertible quarter window won't move

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90 Convertible quarter window won't move

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