91 Mustang Ignition key rod and lock issue

afinger05 · Mar 30, 2022

Hi all,
So I turned my key one day to start my car and as it left the lock position it "stuck. I forced it further and there was a pop then the key turned 180 degrees without doing anything. I wasn't sure which part it was so I ordered and installed a new ignition key cylinder, a new ignition key switch rod, and a new ignition switch (I needed that, the original broke apart). I take everything apart and replace everything with the new parts. I turn the key and it gets jammed up. After taking everything apart again and playing with it, it seems to be an issue with when the key is going between the lock and ACC positions, it gets bound up and I can't get the key to turn any further. If it does, it pops then the rod doesn't move any further.

I'm at a loss, I don't know if there's another part I can replace or if I need to go to the junk yard and pull the steering wheel off another car.
Any ideas or insight would be awesome and most appreciated.

(I can add video or photos when I get home on the 14th)

General karthief · Mar 31, 2022

A video would be good, maybe pics of the end of the key switch too please.

manicmechanic007 · Mar 31, 2022

You just have the gear in there clocked wrong
If you pulled that all apart enough to replace the switch actuator
You pulled the retaining circlip and the gear out
Pull the ignition key and cylinder back out and the circlip and gear out
Then you can use trial and error to re clock the gear to work properly

manicmechanic007 · Mar 31, 2022

I can post the service manual data if you need
It starts with "note the relationship of the gear teeth to the rack"

manicmechanic007 · Mar 31, 2022

No year in the op post
Here is a 1980 with a new at the time modular column

manicmechanic007 · Mar 31, 2022

afinger05 · Mar 31, 2022

Thanks for the replies. My mustang is a 91 GT. My apologies for forgetting to include that. When I put everything back together with the three new components. I followed the directions laid out in a video from LMR. Everything went back together and looked as it did in the video. As soon as I got it together the key stuck but without the key cylinder installed everything appears to move and operate correctly (turning with a screw driver). Is it possible that something is wrong where the rack goes up near the key release lever or the the gear being wore out in the center where the key cylinder turns it (I should have checked this when I was home)?

Unfortunately I am out of town for 2 weeks but trying to find a fix so if I need anything, it's there when I get home because I'm only there for 5 days. I will upload any needed pics or video when I get there if it's still needed

manicmechanic007 · Mar 31, 2022

There are better instructions for cookbooking the column on the newer ones like yours
I will look for that in my books
When you get back fire up this thread if you need to and I'll shoot you the manual pages

afinger05 · Mar 31, 2022

manicmechanic007 said:
There are better instructions for cookbooking the column on the newer ones like yours
I will look for that in my books
When you get back fire up this thread if you need to and I'll shoot you the manual pages

Thank you, I would definitely appreciate that.

General karthief · Mar 31, 2022

When you get back to the car take a light and look in the hole for the key cylinder, looking for a broken tooth or something in between the teeth, I try to remember to get a pic of what it looks like tomorrow.

manicmechanic007 · Apr 1, 2022

The little gear has 2 missing teeth on purpose
Using those as a reference is how you clock the gear back in there properly

General karthief · Apr 1, 2022

manicmechanic007 said:
The little gear has 2 missing teeth on purpose
Using those as a reference is how you clock the gear back in there properly

I have two missing teeth also because someone 'clocked' me wrong

afinger05 · Apr 16, 2022

All right, so after all that trying to troubleshoot these parts, asking all of you for help and thinking that the gear was either worn down and slipping or too much play in it or that something internally was wrong with where the ignition rod and key cylinder meet. Luckily my original ignition rod was in good condition and I reused it, you’ll see why. I finally decided to check the ignition switch. I removed it from the car and used needle nose pliers to try to slide the part the push rod would post and it didn’t move. So I took it apart and the part that is supposed to slide for the contacts was jammed up so I fixed , that put some grease on its track, put it back together then installed it in the car and the key turns fully now and actuates everything as it supposed to. The old switch did this because it broke (what I believe was a cord recall, but I can’t believe the new replacement switch did this too causing me to think it was a common denominator and not both switches with issues.
Thanks for everyone’s suggestions and your efforts to help me. I really appreciate it. Thank you to everyone.

FYI stay away from doorman ignition rods they are crap that is made in China picture posted of what happened to mine likely my original rod was still in good shape and I put that one back in.

manicmechanic007 · Apr 16, 2022

Yes, you need to inspect the rod for movement while rotating the gear because its the actuator that always breaks
Never seen a gear or rack break and I am real glad you fixed it

91 Mustang Ignition key rod and lock issue

afinger05

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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

manicmechanic007

manicmechanic007

manicmechanic007

manicmechanic007

afinger05

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manicmechanic007

afinger05

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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

manicmechanic007

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

afinger05

Member

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91 Mustang Ignition key rod and lock issue

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wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

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wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

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