92 foxbody gt running rich all the time. NO POWER

I thought about asking more about the MAF, but he said it was cal'd for his injectors...although, that doesn't mean its right.


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txstang84 said:

I thought about asking more about the MAF, but he said it was cal'd for his injectors...although, that doesn't mean its right.


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yeah, that's why I asked..

f8tlfiveo said:

yeah, that's why I asked..

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I'd install a stock meter with 19's and see how it runs. 24's aren't needed for your setup.

Lots of good suggestions here but I didn't see this one. Pull the vacuum line off of your FP regulator and see if it has gas in it, also actually run the car and watch for fuel coming out of the vacuum port. If it does the diaphram has ruptured and it's sucking fuel like a drunk sailor.

This video is not a Mustang but check it out, be sure and watch it until the end !

jonathon reynolds said:

not sure what u mean by the distributor being stabbed correctly? its all the way in. timing is locked down at @14 degrees BTDC..

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is it off 180 degrees? It will run if it is but not the best.. I did it by accident when I put my heads on.

I would pull it out and put it back in just to rule it out.. There is a sequence to doing it correctly though. Off hand I do not remember. I'm sure if you do a search you could find out quickly.. I say this because you say the car has no power but still runs..its not gonna cost you any money either.

Putting the distributor back in and setting the timing.

Putting the distributor back in is fairly simple. Pull #1 sparkplug, put your finger in the sparkplug hole, crank the engine until you feel compression. Then line up the TDC mark on the balancer with the pointer on the engine block.

The distributor starts out with the #1 plug wire lined up at about 12:00 with you facing it. Align the rotor to about 11:00, since it will turn clockwise as it slides into place.

Align the distributor rotor up with the #1 position marked on the cap, slide the distributor down into the block, (you may have to wiggle the rotor slightly to get the gear to engage) and then note where the rotor is pointing.
If it still lines up with #1 position on the cap, install the clamp and bolt. If not, pull it out and turn 1 tooth forwards or backwards and try again. Put the #1 spark plug back in and tighten it down, put the clamp on the distributor, but don't tighten it too much, as you will have to move the distributor to set the timing. Note that there is no such thing as one tooth off on a 5.0 Mustang. If it doesn't align perfectly with #1 position, you can turn the distributor until it does. The only problem is that if you are too far one way or the other, you can't turn the distributor enough to get the 10-14 degree optimum timing range.


Setting the timing:
Paint the mark on the harmonic balancer with paint -choose 10 degrees BTC or 14 degrees BTC or something else if you have NO2 or other power adder. I try to paint TDC red, 10 degrees BTC white and 14 degrees BTC blue.

10 degrees BTC is towards the drivers side marks.

Note: setting the timing beyond the 10 degree mark will give you a little more low speed acceleration. BUT you will need to run 93 octane to avoid pinging and engine damage. Pinging is very hard to hear at full throttle, so it could be present and you would not hear it.

Simplified diagram of what it looks like. Not all the marks are shown for ease of viewing.

ATC ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' '!' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' BTC
---------------- > Direction of Rotation as viewed standing in front of the engine.

The ' is 2 degrees.
The ! is TDC
The ' is 10 degrees BTC
Set the timing 5 marks BTC. Or if you prefer, 5 marks towards the driver's side to get 10 degrees.

To get 14 degrees, set it 7 marks BTC. Or if you prefer, 7 marks towards the driver's side to get 14 degrees.

The paint marks you make are your friends if you do it correctly. They are much easier to see that the marks machined into the harmonic balancer hub.

At this point hook up all the wires, get out the timing light. Connect timing light up to battery & #1 spark plug. Then start the engine.

Remove the SPOUT connector (do a search if you want a picture of the SPOUT connector) It is the 2 pin rectangular plug on the distributor wiring harness. Only the EFI Mustang engines have a SPOUT. If yours is not EFI, check for a SPOUT: if you don’t find one, skip any instructions regarding the SPOUT
Warning: there are only two places the SPOUT should be when you time the engine. The first place is in your pocket while you are setting the timing and the second is back in the harness when you finish. The little bugger is too easy to lose and too hard to find a replacement.

Start engine, loosen distributor hold down with a 1/2" universal socket. Shine the timing light on the marks and turn the distributor until the mark lines up with the edge of the timing pointer. Tighten down the distributor hold down bolt, Replace the SPOUT connector and you are done.

The HO firing order is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8.
Non HO firing order is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8

There you go... Now you don't even have to look for it..even better.. Lol

Verify what ecu you have (catch code) and verify the part number for your MAF is correct for that ecu and injector.
May have to make a phone call to a tech line to know for sure, especially if the meter was purchased used...

I'd be looking for a vac leak or exhaust leak.

jonathon reynolds said:

been thinking abt running stock meter and injectors. just hate to spend money on them and it not fix the problem.been throwing parts at this car like crazy.. plus as low as i have the fuel pressure set. shouldnt be flowing much over a 19# injector. i would think??

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I'm thinking the meter is out of calibration, it happens.
If i remember correctly a bbk meter is an old pro flo from the original pro m.

It's not as simple as just turning down the pressure, you have to know where to turn it down to, to compensate, not so easy.

I swear by the idea of using the right injectors for the job, not just a set you can grow into or a set you have laying around. You should only have to change the fp a couple of lbs, not 14psi.

19's should cost you nearly nothing, i wouldn't be surprised if someone gave you them for free, the meter should be pretty cheap too. If you use ebay, whatever you buy will usually sell for about the same.

The aftermarket meter market appears to be a mess, must not be much profit in it because companies come and go, new employees, old business names, old employees, honestly who the hell knows at this point.

I'd suggest you have your meter recalibrated by pro m racing, but it would appear from their site that any other brand than theirs is $150 to recal, for $60 more you could get a brand new one.

Do i know the meter and injectors are a problem? Not at all, but i do know the car is never going to truly run to it's potential with too much injector.
If you don't want to waste money, get a new pro m, calibrated for 19's, then if you need 24's in the future you can get it recalibrated for 24's.

I had issues a couple months back with my car not wanting to run right. A mechanic friend while doing some other work for me took the car out and came back saying it should run much better than it was. He pulled the mass air meter, cleaned the wires, took it back out for another drive and as he was returning I could tell the car was running much better. If your car has a K&N filter and it's been cleaned and re-oiled more than likely the wires are oil soaked and need cleaning. It was suggested earlier but you never mentioned that you tried it.

Redbaron93 said:

I had issues a couple months back with my car not wanting to run right. A mechanic friend while doing some other work for me took the car out and came back saying it should run much better than it was. He pulled the mass air meter, cleaned the wires, took it back out for another drive and as he was returning I could tell the car was running much better. If your car has a K&N filter and it's been cleaned and re-oiled more than likely the wires are oil soaked and need cleaning. It was suggested earlier but you never mentioned that you tried it.

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yeah I suggested that earlier.. I am pretty sure that is how mine got dirty.. I remember oiling the filter.. It's almost free to do.. I tend to do the things that don't cost anything first before you start throwing money at the car.. Just my opinion..