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Electrical 93 computer system deletion.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Xkuzme1
  • Start date Start date Jan 31, 2020
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Xkuzme1

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Sep 21, 2019
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Jan 31, 2020
#1
  • Jan 31, 2020
  • #1
What is the easiest way to delete the computer system and stay with the EFI? I don’t need/have heat/Ac/or anything. I just want the car to run. The stock wiring harness just has too many bugs and shorts. Plus, I’m tired of messing with the PIP/Spout crap.

Is there an after market computer system? Wiring harness?
 

JD1964

there is enough sticking out to grab on to
15 Year Member
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#2
  • Jan 31, 2020
  • #2
You need to have a computer system of sorts for any EFI system. The injectors need to be told how rapidly to pulse under different demands. This pulse rate required is dependent on information from various sensors like rpm sensor, throttle position, intake air volume, manifold vacuum / pressure, O2 sensors in exhaust.

I'm not aware of a way to make EFI work without a control system.

You have to fix what you have or switch to an aftermarket EFI system (which will have a compurer), or ditch EFI altogether and go carbed.
 

Blown88GT

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#3
  • Jan 31, 2020
  • #3
John Dirks Jr said:
You need to have a computer system of sorts for any EFI system. The injectors need to be told how rapidly to pulse under different demands. This pulse rate required is dependent on information from various sensors like rpm sensor, throttle position, intake air volume, manifold vacuum / pressure, O2 sensors in exhaust.

I'm not aware of a way to make EFI work without a control system.

You have to fix what you have or switch to an aftermarket EFI system (which will have a compurer), or ditch EFI altogether and go carbed.
Click to expand...
You are correct. There is no way to make EFI work without a control system.
 
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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
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#4
  • Jan 31, 2020
  • #4
I think that is what he is asking, advice on aftermarket efi control
How do you spell megasquirt?
@a91what is one of the experts in efi controllers
The eec does not control the heat/ac
Tell us more about the car.
 

Blown88GT

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#5
  • Feb 1, 2020
  • #5
His signature says:
Factory Five AC Cobra from 93 Fox Body donor.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
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Feb 1, 2020
#6
  • Feb 1, 2020
  • #6
Get yourself a megasquirt and custom wire it with a new harness. Delete the dustributor and mount some nice coil packs out of the way.
 
Last edited: Feb 4, 2020

a91what

SendMeUrDataLog
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#7
  • Feb 1, 2020
  • #7
Absolutely, I can supply a parts list if needed.
 

Cheapskate207

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#8
  • Feb 2, 2020
  • #8
Easiest and cheapest way.. Holley terminator X. Comes with a computer, full wiring harness, wideband, AND works with factory injectors. All for $1,150... marginally more than megaquirt. I can't speak for the tuning aspect of it vs megasquirt... i have not done that research yet. I know the LS guys like the Holley stuff and terminator x.
 

Steel1

Mustang Master
Aug 18, 2017
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Feb 2, 2020
#9
  • Feb 2, 2020
  • #9
Yeah Holley system does come with it's own harness and I believe you can run a distributor specific for the system.
Megasquirt based system with coil packs is definitely an option, lots of tuning help on this site.
 

JD1964

there is enough sticking out to grab on to
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#10
  • Feb 2, 2020
  • #10
Back to the original poster. In your initial post you said. "I just want the car to run" and, "I'm tired of this PIP/SPOUT crap"

You don't say specifically what the symptoms are or anything your doing to diagnose.

Is the car not running at all, or running but poorly? What exactly is happening?

EEC-IV should not be that difficult to sort out. Considering it's the system already in the car, I'm thinking it would be less effort to fix it than abandon it for an entirely different system.

Just wondering.....
 
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Cheapskate207

The left one hangs a little lower
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#11
  • Feb 2, 2020
  • #11
John Dirks Jr said:
Back to the original poster. In your initial post you said. "I just want the car to run" and, "I'm tired of this PIP/SPOUT crap"

You don't say specifically what the symptoms are or anything your doing to diagnose.

Is the car not running at all, or running but poorly? What exactly is happening?

EEC-IV should not be that difficult to sort out. Considering it's the system already in the car, I'm thinking it would be less effort to fix it than abandon it for an entirely different system.

Just wondering.....
Click to expand...

I agree with this. Another question to consider is what mods are done to the car? If its stock or basic bolt on's the stock system should be adequate once your issues are sorted. Not to mention less effort and cheaper, as mentioned above.
 

a91what

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#12
  • Feb 2, 2020
  • #12
Depends on who you want to give your money too.
China- buy a holley

USA- MegaSquirt made in Gainsville GA
 
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Cheapskate207

The left one hangs a little lower
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#13
  • Feb 2, 2020
  • #13
Fair point.
 

a91what

SendMeUrDataLog
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#14
  • Feb 2, 2020
  • #14
you can also get a pnp microsquirt for $450 that uses the factory harness
 

Blown88GT

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#15
  • Feb 2, 2020
  • #15
OP won't answer until the Super Bowl is over. He's from Kansas City.
 
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JD1964

there is enough sticking out to grab on to
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#16
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  • #16
Go KC!
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
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#17
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He might be celebrating.
 

Xkuzme1

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Kansas City, MO
Feb 3, 2020
#18
  • Feb 3, 2020
  • #18
Ok. Hangover is starting to wear off and the room seems to be spinning a little slower.

Where I seem to be now, is throwing money at parts. Right now the car is running amazing. Amazing. But I’m just one more electrical short, or one more broken wire away from an AC Cobra sitting on the side of the road... again.

Im stuck buying old recycled parts, or crappy copies of good parts for what is essentially a brand new car.

What I thing I’m leaning towards the most... Is Factory Five Racing sells a brand new wiring harness for a 5.0 for $500.

I recently installed a new distributor, new coil, new battery. It is running fantastic... when it gets warmed up. There is some sort of electrical short that when the car is cold, doesn’t want to idle, and even when it does idle, it might just quit, then it becomes very difficult to restart.

If you can get it started and keep it running until the temps come up a bit, it’ll run beautifully.

The wiring harness is 27 years old. It’s only a matter of time.

I wouldn’t be opposed to the Holly system with a standard distributor and wiring harness.

I appreciate all the help and ideas.

x
 

JD1964

there is enough sticking out to grab on to
15 Year Member
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#19
  • Feb 3, 2020
  • #19
Here's an idea. All kinds of weird stuff can happen when the ECU gets old. All of these foxbody ECU's are old enough to be acting up.

Have you ever removed the ECU cover and had a look inside? Very common to find leaking and corroded capacitors, burnt tracers and resistors. Can be repaired or shipped off for repair or swap.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,160
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Feb 4, 2020
#20
  • Feb 4, 2020
  • #20
Personally, I’d go standalone wiring harness. Either build it yourself or buy a painless or the FF harness.

These wiring harness are getting old. Not worth chasing down nicks and cuts in the wires when you want to enjoy the car.

I am planning a FF build. I was going to go stand-alone wiring harness through FF, or run a megasquirt and build my own harness.

These harnesses are getting old and brittle and are the main cause of isSu3s
 
Last edited: Feb 4, 2020
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