Long tubes just mean more power. They are more difficult to install and could cause ground clearance issues. Also, they could interfere with other components in the engine bay (steering shaft, for starters). Its up to you beyond that.
You will gain low end torque and across the board. Straight up swap? Go for it then
View attachment 306949... If "Up top the HP/TQ power curve is identical"....I wonder why Pro Stock and NASCAR don't use shorties......and they race "3,500 + RPM" 100% of the time.Up top the HP/TQ power curve is identical, but the lower/mid range will improve a bit. That is why many do not see huge gains at the track, because you race 3,500 + RPM, not idle to 3,500 RPM.
View attachment 306924... If "Up top the HP/TQ power curve is identical"....I wonder why Pro Stock and NASCAR don't use shorties......and they race "3,500 + RPM" 100% of the time.
Easy, because every little bit helps.
If you can have identical up top, but get more at low to low-mid, why not?
However, their budget seems to be a bit higher than ours, right? Correct me if I am wrong.
They also do not race "3,500 RPM" and up, all of the time.
Two words: ___ ____
If you want to debate with Larry Meaux, Darin Morgan, etc. on the "identical" part, then have at it.
The collector is where a lot of power comes from, and a longtube provides that. Many of our collectors are at 7"-10", when they should be 15"-18". I am not aware of any collector length restrictions on a NASCAR or PRO STOCK engine.
I also can only post my own personal experience with the car I drove for 3.5 years.
I can also provide the "longtube" experience from my friend's '02 GT if you would like as well.
I can also...well N/M.
Up top the HP/TQ power curve is identical, but the lower/mid range will improve a bit. That is why many do not see huge gains at the track, because you race 3,500 + RPM, not idle to 3,500 RPM.
I don't see Larry Meaux, Darin Morgan, etc. posting around here........ and yes, leaving everything else "identical" is an evaluation procedure that is as valid as a 3 dollar bill with the picture of Mickey Mouse on it.
So Pro Stock and NASCAR "do not race "3,500 RPM" and up, all of the time."?
Now, regarding your conclusion regarding ST's vs. LT's based on your experience(s).....
Translation = LT's do not have anything to offer "up top" when compared to ST's. LT's gains are limited to nominal gains in the lower/mid range window only.
Let me see.....you take a setup and leave it as close to the original ST's "baseline" to draw conclusions regarding LT's performance gains. IOW, you change exhaust characteristics only, and conclude the obvious..... questions:
If none of the parameters affecting performance are modified around that "variable" to try to optimize it....... any derived performance conclusion regarding the variable under "evaluation" is questionable and not valid.
- How would those results be affected by increasing A/F in the upper rpm range?
- How would those results be affected with a different fuel map across the whole rpms range?
- How would those results be affected by modifying the spark advance curve?
Last week i ran 14.7 at 95.7 with street tires and a ****ty second gear.. Friday i should have the same conditions and i will see what i run.. I will post results. Nothing will change but the exhaust. climate should be close to the same.
I prefer to see dyno results, with less variables.
I gained 3 MPH after I changed my alternator to a 3G.
Slight changes in the atmosphere can show up at the track.
My next exhaust will be longtubes on my coupe; they also sound better.
Let us know how it goes, as it should be positive.
Yeah, im not looking for a crazy performance gains.. but i do want the sound and i assume they could only help.... i just wanted to make i wasnt gonna have a bunch of low end torque loss.. i will have a write up when the swap is finished. thanks for all your guys help.
My car might not be fast without my long tubes. One of the largest gains I ever saw was shorties and a catted H to long tubes and a Prochamber, waaaay back in the day!
Another thing i really like about full lengths is how easy it is to swap out the mid pipe and make exhaust adjustments in general...since the flanges are all right under the car. It does suck installing the headers the first time around, but how often do you really need to get them back out?
Lastly, i'd recommend definitely going with a full flange header, because pretty much all the separate flange styles are going to warp and make it a PITA to bolt back on after being unbolted (i've had this issue with shorties too however).
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