93 LX 2.3L - Hesitation/Loss of power

Tavis · Nov 24, 2021

I have a 93 LX 2.3L.
I drive this car about once a week. Over the past 6mo or so, I have noticed that shortly after starting it up, it runs and idles fine, but shortly after leaving, it will sometimes jerk and I lose power - almost like a flip the key off for like 300-500ms. Yesterday it did this a few times. Once after a cold start, maybe half a mile down the road. Then it sat for about 2-3hr. Did it again shortly after leaving. Then on some errands, it did it again, twice in a row, after leaving from a store. One time, I hit a bump and felt it again.
In each case, I can see the tach drop to 500RPM, regardless of what RPM the engine is at. The car jerks forward from loss of power, picks up, and carries on.
After it initially does this, it will run fine with no issues.
I'm wondering if I have a bad connection to a coil or the ICM, since it did this when I hit a bump yesterday, and seems to do it more when it's accelerating.
It did this over the summer as well.

The plugs are maybe 2-3 years old.
The coils are 1 year or less old (NGK brand).
I have put two NEW Motorcraft ICMs on this thing.

Any idea what else may be wrong?

Tavis · Nov 24, 2021

Don't know if any of this is related, but:
For additional info, occasionally (not often), it will idle rough when I come to a stop, but then pick back up and idle normally. Again, not often.
And, the fan kicks on at a cold start often, for a few minutes and then cuts off normally. Fan operates normally when temp actually does get high.

Tavis · Nov 24, 2021

And the fuel pump is probably 3 or 4 years old.

Mustang5L5 · Nov 24, 2021

I would start by dumping the codes and seeing what is stored. That may give a clue as to what the issue is and give us a starting point

Tavis · Nov 24, 2021

Mustang5L5 said:
I would start by dumping the codes and seeing what is stored. That may give a clue as to what the issue is and give us a starting point

Don't mean to sound dumb, but if my CEL isn't on, would I still have codes? I have one of these but haven't used it too much. I realize this is prior to OBD2.
Sorry, I'm not too well versed on working on cars. I'm better with IT and small engines.

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Mustang5L5 · Nov 24, 2021

Yes, Only a handful of codes actually will trip the light. Pre-obd2 stuff is very primitive. You actually need to run the codes twice. Once with engine off, and once with it running.

That code reader is what myself and others use with great success.

Plug it in, turn key to ON and turn the reader on and hit the TEST button. A square should start flashing on the screen. It will spot out codes twice in sequence and stop. When it stops, start the car. Square should start blinking again and more codes should start to display.

If the car is a manual, have someone hold the clutch down the entire time you are doing this

Tavis · Nov 24, 2021

With Key on, engine off, I have:
116
10
222

I can't do the engine running test until my wife wakes up. I have a 5 speed.

Mustang5L5 · Nov 24, 2021

Ah, I forgot 91+ 2.3s used 3-digit codes.

116 Coolant temp out of range. Typical code if you run the codes with the engine cold. If you run it with the engine warmed up, this should disappear

10- separate code from KOEO to CM codes

222 - IDM open or high or right coil pack failure - Ignition Systems

CM are stored codes. This could have been a previous failure and has been corrected. After you pull the engine running codes, you’ll want to erase the codes, go for a drive and thenand run these again to see if that 222 code disappears. If it doesn’t, you might have an issue with that coil pack or IDM

Tavis · Nov 24, 2021

Here are the codes I got with KOEO and KOER.
KOEO:
111
10
222

KOER:
20
10
116
411
538
521

I wasn't sure how long to let it run, but it finally stopped blinking the square and I assumed it was finished.
I'll post the video as soon as it uploads.

When I turned the tester off, it stalled for a split second, similar to my initial problem described above. Then picked up fine.

Tavis · Nov 24, 2021

Video:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/WFUu1dsTvNvHrDCf7

Mustang5L5 · Nov 24, 2021

111: system pass code

10 separator code

116 coolant

222 IDM or coil

411: cannot control RpM during test

538: insuffient rpm change during KOER test

521: power steering pressure switch did not change states.

Inwould erase the codes and rerun them and see if the 222 is still there. If it is, you’ll need to troubleshoot the IDM/Coil as it could cause all the other codes and the issue you are seeing.

Tavis · Nov 24, 2021

I'm going to disconnect the battery to wipe the codes, drive it around again, and then test it again while it's still warm.

How can I tell which coil pack the 222 code is referring to? It says "Right" but is there a "right side"? I could try swapping them around and seeing if I get a different code. EDIT: I need to look at the plug wires again, actually, before I ask this.

Is the Ignition Diagnostic Module within the PCM itself? I replaced the PCM years ago. Maybe 7 or 8 years ago.

Mustang5L5 · Nov 24, 2021

do you have the manual for your reader? Page 37&38 shpw how to clear the codes with the reader. That way you don’t need to disconnect the battery and do idle relearn.

Also, the manual on page 46-65 will have the code meanings.

Typically right and left is viewed from the drivers seat. So right would be pass side.

code 222 is loss of IDM signal usually indicating an open wire from the RH coil (primary)

You’ll want to test these wires (95&96) from the RH coil pack back to the ICM and see if you have continuity.

If you have them, test the signal IDM wire from the ICM back to the ECU. Pin 12 on the ICM to pin 4 on the ECU. Usually if this is bad you get a code 226

If those wires are all good, it may be a bad ICM

Tavis · Nov 26, 2021

I see what they mean by "right side" on the coil packs after looking at them.
It looks like that would be the rear coil pack (closest to the firewall). So then is that the ignition plugs or the waste plugs?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ujHii77F62TuroiQ7

I have cleared the codes according to the manual procedure, but have not had time to drive it again, nor test the wires.

Bullitt347 · Nov 26, 2021

You can always check wire colors to verify right/left. According to the wire diagram the Left coil has Tan/Light Green and Tan/Light blue wires while the Right cols has Tan/white and Tan/Orange wires.

Mustang5L5 · Nov 26, 2021

RH would be the primary and the LH would be the wasted coil.

I second just looking at the wire colors to confirm.

Tavis · Nov 26, 2021

Thanks. I'll see if I can check the wire colors as well.

I see there is a condenser on the front coil. Are those normally a problem? I have quite a few of those working with small engines.

Tavis · Dec 3, 2021

Just an update:
After I cleared the codes, I went ahead and ordered a replacement coil pack and installed it yesterday in place of the rear coil pack (for the right hand, passenger side plugs). I have driven it once last night for about 40min, and once today for about 45min, it sat for about 2hr, then 45min back home. So far, no hesitations/loss of power/lurching/whatever.

My concern is if that is only temporary - meaning if something else is bad. Hard to think that a new coil pack would go bad so soon.

Tavis · Dec 3, 2021

And to add, when I saw the loss of power issue prior to the coil pack swap, it was normally around 35 to 40MPH.

Mustang5L5 · Dec 3, 2021

What brand is the coil pack?

I hate to say it, but aftermarket electronics are junk for our cars these days. Not enough demand so the lowest bidder is who is making the dwindling supply of parts.

I have more faith in a 30 year old junkyard part than a new out of box part from many suppliers these days for our generation vehicles

93 LX 2.3L - Hesitation/Loss of power

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