93 LX 2.3L - Hesitation/Loss of power

Tavis

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Sep 25, 2012
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I have a 93 LX 2.3L.
I drive this car about once a week. Over the past 6mo or so, I have noticed that shortly after starting it up, it runs and idles fine, but shortly after leaving, it will sometimes jerk and I lose power - almost like a flip the key off for like 300-500ms. Yesterday it did this a few times. Once after a cold start, maybe half a mile down the road. Then it sat for about 2-3hr. Did it again shortly after leaving. Then on some errands, it did it again, twice in a row, after leaving from a store. One time, I hit a bump and felt it again.
In each case, I can see the tach drop to 500RPM, regardless of what RPM the engine is at. The car jerks forward from loss of power, picks up, and carries on.
After it initially does this, it will run fine with no issues.
I'm wondering if I have a bad connection to a coil or the ICM, since it did this when I hit a bump yesterday, and seems to do it more when it's accelerating.
It did this over the summer as well.

The plugs are maybe 2-3 years old.
The coils are 1 year or less old (NGK brand).
I have put two NEW Motorcraft ICMs on this thing.

Any idea what else may be wrong?
 
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Don't know if any of this is related, but:
For additional info, occasionally (not often), it will idle rough when I come to a stop, but then pick back up and idle normally. Again, not often.
And, the fan kicks on at a cold start often, for a few minutes and then cuts off normally. Fan operates normally when temp actually does get high.
 
Yes, Only a handful of codes actually will trip the light. Pre-obd2 stuff is very primitive. You actually need to run the codes twice. Once with engine off, and once with it running.

That code reader is what myself and others use with great success.

Plug it in, turn key to ON and turn the reader on and hit the TEST button. A square should start flashing on the screen. It will spot out codes twice in sequence and stop. When it stops, start the car. Square should start blinking again and more codes should start to display.

If the car is a manual, have someone hold the clutch down the entire time you are doing this
 
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Ah, I forgot 91+ 2.3s used 3-digit codes.

116 Coolant temp out of range. Typical code if you run the codes with the engine cold. If you run it with the engine warmed up, this should disappear

10- separate code from KOEO to CM codes


222 - IDM open or high or right coil pack failure - Ignition Systems

CM are stored codes. This could have been a previous failure and has been corrected. After you pull the engine running codes, you’ll want to erase the codes, go for a drive and thenand run these again to see if that 222 code disappears. If it doesn’t, you might have an issue with that coil pack or IDM
 
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Here are the codes I got with KOEO and KOER.
KOEO:
111
10
222

KOER:
20
10
116
411
538
521

I wasn't sure how long to let it run, but it finally stopped blinking the square and I assumed it was finished.
I'll post the video as soon as it uploads.

When I turned the tester off, it stalled for a split second, similar to my initial problem described above. Then picked up fine.
 
111: system pass code

10 separator code

116 coolant

222 IDM or coil

411: cannot control RpM during test

538: insuffient rpm change during KOER test

521: power steering pressure switch did not change states.



Inwould erase the codes and rerun them and see if the 222 is still there. If it is, you’ll need to troubleshoot the IDM/Coil as it could cause all the other codes and the issue you are seeing.
 
I'm going to disconnect the battery to wipe the codes, drive it around again, and then test it again while it's still warm.

How can I tell which coil pack the 222 code is referring to? It says "Right" but is there a "right side"? I could try swapping them around and seeing if I get a different code. EDIT: I need to look at the plug wires again, actually, before I ask this.

Is the Ignition Diagnostic Module within the PCM itself? I replaced the PCM years ago. Maybe 7 or 8 years ago.
 
do you have the manual for your reader? Page 37&38 shpw how to clear the codes with the reader. That way you don’t need to disconnect the battery and do idle relearn.

Also, the manual on page 46-65 will have the code meanings.

Typically right and left is viewed from the drivers seat. So right would be pass side.

code 222 is loss of IDM signal usually indicating an open wire from the RH coil (primary)

You’ll want to test these wires (95&96) from the RH coil pack back to the ICM and see if you have continuity.
82829A07-2752-4E7B-92DB-FDEEDD82749D.jpeg


If you have them, test the signal IDM wire from the ICM back to the ECU. Pin 12 on the ICM to pin 4 on the ECU. Usually if this is bad you get a code 226

794DDA0C-EB4E-4998-8D49-57A4C898CCD2.jpeg



If those wires are all good, it may be a bad ICM
 
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You can always check wire colors to verify right/left. According to the wire diagram the Left coil has Tan/Light Green and Tan/Light blue wires while the Right cols has Tan/white and Tan/Orange wires.
 
Thanks. I'll see if I can check the wire colors as well.

I see there is a condenser on the front coil. Are those normally a problem? I have quite a few of those working with small engines.
 
Just an update:
After I cleared the codes, I went ahead and ordered a replacement coil pack and installed it yesterday in place of the rear coil pack (for the right hand, passenger side plugs). I have driven it once last night for about 40min, and once today for about 45min, it sat for about 2hr, then 45min back home. So far, no hesitations/loss of power/lurching/whatever.

My concern is if that is only temporary - meaning if something else is bad. Hard to think that a new coil pack would go bad so soon.
 
What brand is the coil pack?

I hate to say it, but aftermarket electronics are junk for our cars these days. Not enough demand so the lowest bidder is who is making the dwindling supply of parts.

I have more faith in a 30 year old junkyard part than a new out of box part from many suppliers these days for our generation vehicles
 
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