94-98 Sub Help

Built the box yourself. Parts would cost you around $20 to $30 just for the box.

mackey said:

Any specific designs? Ported? Unported? I am pretty new to the subject. What is the advantage of one over the other. Should I just do a square type.

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By far, I am no expert on anything dealing with subs, ect. I've built my box myself so I can help you there. When you buy your sub, it will list the specifications for a sub box. You use that to built your sub. I ended up using a quarter of a sheet of plywood. I used wood trim but you can use 2x4's and I put them inside of box around the edges. I used a nail gun and gorilla glue on there edges. For the outside of your sub, you can paint it, carpet it, or cover it with some sort of material(I used vinyal, it costed me $5.00). If you want to see some pictures of my sub as it was get completed then click here. http://photobucket.com/albums/b294/zincyellowstang/Sound System/

Oh, about the ported or unported, I used to know what the difference was, but I forgot. I'm sure someone else can easily answer this question for you.
Hope this helps.

A sealed enclosure is of course, the easiest to construct. It will yield excellent response throughout the driver's useable range. Sealed enclosures are generally smaller than their counterparts.

A vented enclosure will yield extended response within it's passband and will GENERALLY be more efficient than a sealed ecnlcoure. They are more difficult to construct and tune, and will be larger than a sealed enclosure.

Pick yourself up a copy of The Loudspeaker Design Cookbook if you're really interested, or search the internet.

A good site is www.diysubwoofers.org
This site will go into detail on many different enclosure types and designs, but it's still just a small fraction.

When constructing the enclosure, use as dense a material as possible. Many people use medium density fiberboard or MDF for short. While normal plywood will suffice, it is not very dense, it will flex more than mdf and there is always a chance of vibration and resonance between the plies. Standard wood glue is the best to use as it causes a chemical bond between the two pieces of wood rather than just acting like normal glue. The joint where the glue is will actually be stronger then any other part of the enclosure. Many people use other types of glue with excellent results, but for a wood to wood connection there is nothing better than wood glue.

Pick yourself up a Kicker L5 10" or 12" and a pre fab box they have now. They come ported or sealed and asound pretty good,just add the amp and your done.You could make the box,deal with the mess,tools and everything else(thats fun to me).

iskwezm said:

Pick yourself up a Kicker L5 10" or 12" and a pre fab box they have now. They come ported or sealed and asound pretty good,just add the amp and your done.You could make the box,deal with the mess,tools and everything else(thats fun to me).

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Good idea for simplicity, but I have yet to find a prefabe vented enclosure tuned less than 38Hz. Can you say peaky?

Mackey, if you go with a vented enlcosure make sure you're amplifier of choice has a subsonic filter on it(correct term is infrasonic). This will protect the driver from not playing anything below the tuning which can cause the driver to unload and damage it.