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94 Cobra symptoms like bad TFI, but not (pics)

  • Thread starter Thread starter webshot
  • Start date Start date Mar 23, 2012
W

webshot

Member
Sep 11, 2005
738
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17
Yay Area, California
Mar 23, 2012
#1
  • Mar 23, 2012
  • #1
Ok this may be a little premature, as I have yet to receive my OBD1 scanner to run the codes as suggested by members here (Summit says will be here Monday). But in the meantime I wanted to ask a couple questions. After doing some reading here, I decided to check to see if my TFI module was bad. Had it tested several times at Autozone and it tested good (green lights across the board). Basically what my car is doing, is running real rough at idle, loss of power at WOT, backfire at WOT, lots of bucking, once the car is warm/hot it will shut off or when I reach my destination it will not start again for about 30 minutes to an hour. So far I have had the TFI tested, cleaned the IAB, and cleaned the MAF. Problem still persists. But when cleaning the MAF I noticed the housing is cracked and that my throttle body is not like a friend of mines stock one. Could the crack in the MAF or this throttle body be the cause of my issues? Are there any other things I can check until my scanner gets in and I run the codes?

Pics





 
W

webshot

Member
Sep 11, 2005
738
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Yay Area, California
Mar 23, 2012
#2
  • Mar 23, 2012
  • #2
Oh and sorry here are the details of my Cobra

GT40x heads
TFS stage 1 cam
JBA headers
Stock upper and lower intake
 
W

webshot

Member
Sep 11, 2005
738
0
17
Yay Area, California
Mar 24, 2012
#3
  • Mar 24, 2012
  • #3
Ok scanner came in from Summit and I ran the codes. I got 111, 11, and 10. The book that came with the scanner says these mean "system OK". Any ideas guys? I am going to replace the wires, cap and rotor this evening as well. And may as well do the spark plugs too. Any recommendations for plugs?
 

toyman

10 Year Member
Jul 19, 2007
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Vernon BC
Mar 24, 2012
#4
  • Mar 24, 2012
  • #4
The TB appears to be stock but it's been a long time since I changed mine. The MAF housing crack is problematic as non-metered air may be drawn into the intake. What is it you are calling the IAB or did you mean IAC (Intake Air Control) valve? Also, remember that sensors age with time and use. While they still may pass a test that doesn't mean they respond as quickly as they once did.
 

Hef5.0weisen

20+ Year Stangneter
Mar 5, 2004
574
4
28
NorthWest Florida
Mar 25, 2012
#5
  • Mar 25, 2012
  • #5
The not starting for 30 minutes after being shut off bit.....classic symptom of the PIP going bad. Little sensor in the distributor, tells the computer where everything is at timing wise.....anyway

New sensor is ~20 bucks at NAPA...not sure what other parts store carry them. Easy to replace, only special tool you need is a 5.5 mm socket oddball size. A press is reccomended, but a mallet will get you there. You'll have to diasassemble the dizzy to replace it....not a cosmic task, but may intimidate some..... Search for a how to. Or, you can replace the distributor....~100 bucks.

Foresight....if you think the aforementioned is the cause, have a look at your balancer as well. These go bad all the time also.....if you mess with the PIP, you'll have to reset the timing....with a "spun" balancer, you'll never get it right. Something to think about before making multi trips to the store.

Have to say it....search on here for PIP sensor, and Balancer. You'll find more info than I can type. Particularly the PIP sensor...see if your symptons are in line with what others have described. Also look into the threads about replacing the dizzy with an MSD or parts store replacement.

FWIW, I bought a parts store dizzy and slapped it in there. In fact, its for a Fox Mustang. That was to get on the road again. I also bought the PIP from NAPA and replaced it in the original...ran it...now have a spare on the shelf. BTW, a bad PIP will leave you stranded at the worst time, and as far away possible from where you need to be...in the rain with no cell reception.

Good Luck!
 
W

webshot

Member
Sep 11, 2005
738
0
17
Yay Area, California
Mar 25, 2012
#6
  • Mar 25, 2012
  • #6
toyman said:
The TB appears to be stock but it's been a long time since I changed mine. The MAF housing crack is problematic as non-metered air may be drawn into the intake. What is it you are calling the IAB or did you mean IAC (Intake Air Control) valve? Also, remember that sensors age with time and use. While they still may pass a test that doesn't mean they respond as quickly as they once did.
Click to expand...
Yea I was thinking as much on the MAF. Gonna replace that. Are your recommending I replace the TFI as well, even though it passed?
 
W

webshot

Member
Sep 11, 2005
738
0
17
Yay Area, California
Mar 25, 2012
#7
  • Mar 25, 2012
  • #7
Hef5.0weisen said:
The not starting for 30 minutes after being shut off bit.....classic symptom of the PIP going bad. Little sensor in the distributor, tells the computer where everything is at timing wise.....anyway

New sensor is ~20 bucks at NAPA...not sure what other parts store carry them. Easy to replace, only special tool you need is a 5.5 mm socket oddball size. A press is reccomended, but a mallet will get you there. You'll have to diasassemble the dizzy to replace it....not a cosmic task, but may intimidate some..... Search for a how to. Or, you can replace the distributor....~100 bucks.

Foresight....if you think the aforementioned is the cause, have a look at your balancer as well. These go bad all the time also.....if you mess with the PIP, you'll have to reset the timing....with a "spun" balancer, you'll never get it right. Something to think about before making multi trips to the store.

Have to say it....search on here for PIP sensor, and Balancer. You'll find more info than I can type. Particularly the PIP sensor...see if your symptons are in line with what others have described. Also look into the threads about replacing the dizzy with an MSD or parts store replacement.

FWIW, I bought a parts store dizzy and slapped it in there. In fact, its for a Fox Mustang. That was to get on the road again. I also bought the PIP from NAPA and replaced it in the original...ran it...now have a spare on the shelf. BTW, a bad PIP will leave you stranded at the worst time, and as far away possible from where you need to be...in the rain with no cell reception.

Good Luck!
Click to expand...
Thanks Hef, I would lean towards just replacing the whole dizzy at this point. Doing a quick search on summit and Autozone there are several brands. Do any of you guys have a recommendation for a dizzy for my setup? Also the balancer you are referring to, would that be "harmonic balancer"? Just want to make sure I am thinking about the right parts.
 
W

webshot

Member
Sep 11, 2005
738
0
17
Yay Area, California
Mar 25, 2012
#8
  • Mar 25, 2012
  • #8
Also been doing some reading on the PIP and indeed folks seems to have my not starting symptom. But none of them seem to have the bad idle and bucking issues I have. Seems I have a compound problem, but no trouble codes.
 

Hef5.0weisen

20+ Year Stangneter
Mar 5, 2004
574
4
28
NorthWest Florida
Mar 25, 2012
#9
  • Mar 25, 2012
  • #9
Yes...harmonic balancer. If you're searching on here, you'll probably see some pics of one with the rubber coming out of the back.....tell tale sign, however, if it is the original sans rubber hanging out the back, it may still be done....something to think about/look into

Idle and bucking could be the aftermarket cam....no experience with a TFS1..however, I've seen on here that it is a friendly cam (gets along with the computer without a tune of sorts)

As for a dizzy...me, I'd just do a parts store replacement...make sure the PIP is new and it has a warranty
 
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